The Green House, Loam, Ox and Epic Snap Up Michelin Stars

The Green House in Dublin and Loam in Galway have been awarded Michelin stars for the first time. Meanwhile Belfast has also seen a revival in its foodie fortunes, with Ox and Eipic both gaining Michelin stars for the first time. For the past number of years, all restaurants in Belfast have been ‘starless’.

The Green House had long been tipped for the honour, but to date it had eluded them. Under the ownership of Eamon O’Reilly, also of One Pico, and the culinary guiding hand of Finish-born chef Mickael Voljanen – who had previously won a Michelin star for his work in Gregan’s Castle – the restaurant has developed a very subtle and striking kind of food experience. Those in the know felt that it was only a matter of time – and so finally, it has proven.

Meanwhile, the success of Loam in Galway represents another major feather in the cap for chef-owner Enda McEvoy. He was the man in the kitchen when, the newly established, Aniar won its first Michelin star – which it has retained since. McEvoy established his new venture, Loam, late in 2014 and assumed that any star would have to wait for another year. Not so. The decision of the Michelin judges will be celebrated by people in Ireland who know their food. McEvoy is one of the more quietly brilliant of local chefs.

There will be furious disagreement, however, over the decision not to maintain a star at Thornton’s Restaurant – a decision which the chef-owner Kevin Thornton has described as bizarre. Thornton’s Restaurant was recently crowned Restaurant of the Year in Ireland – a decision which was loudly applauded by Hot Press, where Thornton has more than a few fans, and by the team behind Best of Ireland. Thornton is one of the genuine geniuses of Irish cuisine. “This is a decision which reflects the occasionally stupidly arbitrary nature of these things,” one industry insider told Hot Press. “Kevin is a brilliant chef and they run a fantastic show in Thornton’s, so it makes no sense at all. He is one of the most daring and innovative chefs ever in Ireland, and that won’t change. But I am sure he will come bouncing back – if that’s what he decides he wants to do.”

The only Irish restaurant to win two stars is Patrick Guilbaud’s – it has retained its Michelin star status for over 20 years. Other stars went to L’Ecrivain in Dublin; Chapter One in Dublin; Cliff House in Ardmore. Waterford; Lady Helen in Thomastown, Kilkenny; Campagne in Kilkenny city; and the aforementioned Aniar in Galway.

Among the newcomers to pick up the secondary Bib Gourmand awards are Etto, in Merrion Row, Dublin; and Delahunt’s in Camden Street, Dublin. Other restaurants to feature in this list include Pichet, Trinity Street, Dublin; Pigeon House, Clontarf, Dublin; Pig’s Ear, Nassau Street, Dublin; Fishy Fishy Cafe in Kinsale, Co. Cork and the legendary Chez Hans, Cashel, Co. Tipperary.

The vast majority of the restaurants were featured in Best Of Ireland earlier this year; to pick up a copy, click here.