Northern Exposure

We ve read so much about Northern Ireland over the years. We ve listened to its political leaders and its paramilitaries and agonised about how the next move from one or the other was going to affect the long-term future of the people and the place. Now, with the Good Friday Agreement still providing a basis for hope, we are even more conscious of the nuances of meaning than ever.
But to understand a place and its people you really have to go there and experience its sights and sounds first-hand. Even a taxi ride from Central Station is a wildly different experience than anything a first-time visitor to Dublin, London or Paris will encounter. And that s just the beginning.
In some ways Derry and Belfast have been locked, for a long time, into a defensive position. Marked by pockets of deprivation and sectarianism, and with a military presence that couldn t help but seep onto the streets, the underlying mood was one of caution. Extravagance or ambition might too easily be punished. But with a ceasefire declared on both sides in the context of the Belfast Agreement, in the year since, a new air of optimism has undoubtedly taken root.
No matter what side of the political spectrum you come from or root for this surely can only be a good thing. The prospect of people opening up, experimenting, investing and generally working to make interesting things happen is to be welcomed. And nowhere more so than in the context of culture generally, and music in particular.
So this is what we find. The shoots are tentative but clearly visible. And things like this tend to develop a momentum. It may just be that springtime has arrived in Northern Ireland at last. If so, then it s time to celebrate and to look forward to a moment when the people are free to enjoy the myriad delights of the place without once having to think of looking over their shoulders and wondering . . .
Chris Donovan

When the word came down from Hot Press HQ that they wanted me to write the layman s guide to Belfast s Top 10 spots I assumed wrongly that the commission was for a run down of various rock n roll dens of iniquity. It was therefore a pleasurable surprise to learn that the brief was not as first thought, but a simple and broad-based account of some of my own favourite haunts, which may be of interest to those of you from out of town.
I have to admit that being afforded the opportunity to trumpet some of the positive about a city that has received its fair share of negative coverage is an opportunity not to be missed. To me, Belfast has always been a rock n roll town with a hint of danger, but if one takes the time to look, and look in the right places, it is also a city of enormous beauty and indeed history.
If you are visiting Belfast by train, you will arrive in Central Station, where, as you exit, you will immediately be confronted by the magnificent sight of Belfast s latest architectural achievement The Waterfront Hall. The Hall, most recently famed as the location for the meeting place of Hume and Trimble, facilitated by U2 and Ash, is a shining example of a stunning jump into the 21st century. Check it out if you get a chance. You don t need to be a ticket-holding concert goer; visit the Hall s restaurant and cafe for lunch, or just a coffee, where you will be provided with an incredible view across the Lagan of the awesome Harland and Wolff shipyard cranes the birthplace of The Titanic.
In stark contrast to the contemporary structure that is the Waterfront Hall, directly across the road you might want to take the opportunity to visit the red brick and sandstone structure that is St. George s Market. Situated on Cromac Square, this sadly is a building which I would hazard a guess a huge proportion of Belfast residents have never visited. The indoor Friday morning market that takes place there is the genuine article.
Everything from second-hand clothes to bric-a-brac and fruit and veg are sold, at ridiculously good prices. Many of the market stalls have been in the same families for several generations. It s a busy and exciting environment, full of faces with character and an array of smells that will take you to the very furthest Mediterranean outposts.
The market is currently going through a major restoration. It s good to know that the building s outer appearance is secure; however, one can only hope that the once a week character that is the Friday morning market is not lost entirely to a Covent Garden-style approach tailored to overseas visitors.
OK, it s gotta be time to mention the subject of drink, and, after great deliberation, I have narrowed the numerous favoured haunts down to two watering holes. When in Belfast, a visit to the Crown Bar, one of Belfast s oldest pubs, is obligatory. The Crown, with its wooden snugs supplied by Polish carvers moonlighting from their daytime church work, comes complete in all its original form, with gas lamps and gas staff namely Colin and Michael. This is a public house that can play host to the flat-capped working man, alongside showbiz personalities and businessmen. Strangely enough, the only nod to the 21st century is a webcam situated behind the bar which allows you not only to sup your pint but gives you the facility to wave at your long-lost Auntie in New Jersey whilst you are doing so.
My second public house recommendation is the Kitchen Bar on Victoria Square. This fine establishment is full of character and is a top example of what a well run pub is all about. Owner Pat Catney may provide a much needed listening ear across the bar, or just as easily serenade you as the Belfast gondolier, as he serves you with Paddy s Pizza top food, top craic, top recommendation.
Now, feeling suitably refreshed, it may be time to take a wander around Belfast city centre, and in particular Donegall Square, where you will find and have the chance to savour the atmosphere of the oldest library in Belfast. The Linenhall Library was first established in 1788 and houses one of the most amazing collections and archives of original works, manuscripts, newspapers, directories, postcards and more. As a source of local and Irish history it is practically unbeatable. The Linenhall Library has been associated with every major literary figure imaginable, and indeed is historically linked to the dissenting radicals of the 1798 Rebellion.
Directly opposite the library is Belfast City Hall. Although more commonly known for political wranglings, you may be interested to know that this magnificent building, with its Whispering Gallery, is open to public tours, and with its superb collection of paintings and murals depicting the industrial history of the city, it s a must.
On the fringes of Belfast city, you might fancy a quick deco at the hub of the student area, Queens University, and to be more specific, the extremely impressive Lanyon Building, where, if you pass through into the main courtyard with its manicured lawns, you can experience an oasis of calm which provides a tranquil space within a busy academic environment. The surroundings are reminiscent of just about every location shot in Chariots Of Fire.
Incidentally, the Lanyon Building is adjacent to the Botanic Gardens, which is always well worth taking time out to visit. The city centre s main park houses the banana-growing Botanical Palm House, as well as the Ulster Museum. The museum boasts a fine collection of local art, as well as the Girona Treasure. I can vividly recall how, as a child, the museum, with its perfectly preserved Egyptian mummy, was a scary and exciting prospect. Most importantly the park, the Palm House and the museum are all free of charge.
As I ve lumped the museum and the Palm House together, that leaves me with two last choices. It may not spring to mind immediately, but Stormont Buildings and park are well worth a visit. Stormont, which is of course now playing host to the Northern Ireland Assembly, is one of Belfast s most impressive sights. From the main gate to the Buildings is exactly one mile and the park is open to the public. Directly in front of Stormont Buildings is the huge statue of Edward Lord Carson, famed for many things, including doing Oscar Wilde no favours whatsoever!
Last, but not least, if you ever needed reminding about just how close Belfast city is to the beautiful countryside you might fancy stretching your legs along the old Lagan towpath from Shaw s Bridge.
Having done all the aforementioned you will be exhausted, but hopefully satisfied and enlightened Belfast has a lot to offer. So, go on, give it a chance. Hop on the train and check it out.
P.S. If it s rock n roll you re after don t forget The Limelight, Katy Daly s, Auntie Annie s, Morrissons, The Empire, Ski-Bunny and shine.
Happy hunting.
Mike Edgar presents Across The Line on BBC Radio Ulster, from Monday to Friday, at 8pm. n