12 Step Planet: Exploring Harbin, Northern China

Where exactly is it?

Harbin is the largest city in northeastern China, and the capital of the swan-shaped Heilongjiang province. Harbin is located in the south of the province, giving the city the nickname of “the pearl beneath the swan’s neck”. With a population of more than 10 million, the renowned “Ice City” lies on the southern bank of the Songhua River, nestling on the southeastern edge of the Songnen Plain.

How do I get there?

With a bit of research it’s not difficult to find connecting flights through Dubai, Beijing, and finally to Harbin Airport, which cost around €700. A new direct route from Dublin to Beijing launched this summer and will get you most of the way there. For a cheaper alternative, there are comfortable high-speed bullet trains and overnight sleeper trains from Beijing to Harbin, prices ranging from €50 - €60 depending on the season.

What language do they speak?

When China standardised Mandarin as its official language, the north-east dialect found around Harbin was chosen as a base to develop from. Although Harbin was once an international city influenced by neighboring Russia, few people speak English nowadays due to the lack of foreign investment.

Why should I go?

Said to have the most beautiful winter in Asia, Harbin becomes a paradise of ice and snow, decorated by masterful ice sculptures. Harbin is a wonderland for winter sports, and skiing enthusiasts will love the surrounding ranges, home to some of the biggest and best resorts in China.

When should I go?

Winter, for the International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival. The annual Festival starts in January and ends in February, which is the peak tourism period. Temperatures average about minus fifteen.

How can I get around?

As a transport and business hub of China, the public transport system in Harbin is well-developed. Over 100 bus routes serve almost all parts of the city. For a comfortable and economic ride around the city, taking a taxi would be a wise choice. Taxis in Harbin are inexpensive and convenient - but make sure the driver turns the meter on when you get in, or else they may try to rip you off.

What’s the food like?

Russian railway workers settled in Harbin in droves in the early 20th century, and so Harbin often offers a fusion of Russian and Chinese cuisines. The Zhongyang Pedestrian Street is the centrepiece of Harbin’s food scene - this colourful street decorated with lanterns and streamers is home to over hundreds of restaurants and street-side food stalls. Pop into a bakery to sample “da-lie-ba”, a large round bread that tastes sour and chewy, and pick up some “hong chang” smoked sausage at a street food stall.
Tired of all the walking? Take a seat at the Portman Western Restaurant (53 Xiqidao Street) for a decent meal with relaxing live music. Famous for its authentic Russian dishes, it’s highly popular for their steak and wine. Want a taste of traditional Chinese cuisine? The Lao Chu Jia Chinese Restaurant (3/F, Balasi Food City, Xiqidao Street) is a good pick, well-known for a distinctive local dish called “Guo Bao Rou” - pork mingled with sugar and vinegar which gives it a sweet and sour flavor. After the main dishes, it’s time for some desserts. There’s always a long queue at the entrance of the Madieer Hotel (89 Zhongyang Street) for their luscious vanilla cream popsicles.

What’s the drink like?

Every summer, over 100 breweries from around the world gather in Harbin for the International Beer Festival. The Festival is held in the Ice and Snow World (north bank of Songhua River, Songbei District), where woozy visitors flock to this grand carnival of beer. There are drinking competitions, live music, fashion shows, and of course, free beer sampling. You’ll get to taste the famous local brands of Harbin, Snow and Tsingtao, as well as international brands from United States, Germany, and Russia. The craft beer craze has hit China too - you can sample the works of local microbreweries who claim their beer is filled with natural minerals and rich vitamins.

What are the touristy things to do?

The Sun Island on the north bank of the Songhua River is Harbin’s touristic hub, always worth a stroll. During the festival, the island hosts the International Snow Sculpture Art Expo, and becomes home to creative, intricate and gigantic award-winning snow sculptures. Across the river is Ice and Snow World, where ingenious artists built a jaw-dropping town with blocks of ice, featuring reproductions of real-life architectures, decorated by sophisticated LED lighting. Harbin’s biggest attraction, it opens in the evening and illuminates the city’s night with flashes of dazzling colors and lights.

What’s the nightlife like?

This frosty city gets hot at night. If you’re looking for a unique drinking experience, check out the Ice Bar at the Zhongyang Pedestrian Street. It’s a pop-up bar only available during the Ice and Snow Festival. The chairs, tables, glasses and even the structure of the bar is made up of freezing ice.
Craving for something more electrifying? Get lost in the Indiana Club (102 Xidazhi Street)! Located near the Harbin Institute of Technology, the club draws crowds of students to the immense dance floor. Nightly floor shows, provide a wide range of entertainment from karaoke, Russian folk dances, stripteases, and drag shows.

What’s my challenge?

One activity in Harbin really shows the fortitude of the locals – winter swimming in the Songhua River. They believe that swimming in the sub-zero river makes them happier, healthier and stronger. If you’re brave enough to accept the challenge, dive into the pool built on the chilly river and embrace the ice!

Anything else?

Don’t forget to take a stroll by the St. Sophia Cathedral (Sophia Square, Daoli District). First built in 1907, it’s the largest Orthodox church in the far east. Featuring a classic Russian onion dome, the Byzantine architecture is a magnificent structure so grand and elegant that many called it the work of God’s hands. It was once the spiritual symbol of the Russian army, and is now home to the Harbin Construction Art Museum which displays thousands of fascinating pictures regarding the refined urban planning and beautiful design of the city.