Rebel Rebel

Ah, Cork – the rebel county. Those of us from elsewhere on the island like to tease our Corkonian brethren about their accents, like, and their unerring ability to scatter the word “like” in every sentence, like. But without Cork, Ireland would be a much duller – and of course, smaller! – place, bhoy.

Cork has a proud and independent tradition. It has given us such notables as Michael Collins, Jack Lynch, Frank O’Connor, Rory Gallagher, William Trevor, Eoghan Harris and Anne Harris of the Sunday Independent, Roy Keane, Denis Irwin, leading chef Darina Allen’s cookery school (she was born in Port Laoise, fact-fiends), Ronan O’Gara, Jonathan Rhys-Meyers, Cillian Murphy, John Spillane, Mick Flannery, Fred, The Frank and Walters, The Sultans of Ping, Brendan O’Connor and... Crystal Swing. And of course it has given us some of the most extraordinary hurlers in the history of the sport. Christy Ring is perhaps the ultimate legend, but there’s also Jimmy Barry Murphy and Sean Óg Ó hAilpín, among many outstanding figures. And, even more tellingly perhaps, there is the taboo-breaking Dónal Óg Cusack, the goalkeeper who starred in Cork’s All Ireland winning side and later came out as gay – the first ever major inter-county GAA player to do so.
So, Cork has a way of making history. Whether in the arts, in sport or in politics, it is a vital county, which has contributed enormously to Irish life at every level. Which is why it is such an attractive place to outsiders. At the heart of it is the city itself, a place that has lately been voted in the Top 10 places to visit in the prestigious Lonely Planet ‘Best In Travel 2010’. This is select company to be keeping: the other cities in the top ten are Cuenca, Ecuador; Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina; Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates; Kyoto, Japan; Lecce, Italy; Singapore; Vancouver, Canada; Istanbul, Turkey; and Charleston, USA. “Cork is at the top of its game right now,” the guide reflects, “sophisticated, vibrant and diverse, while still retaining its friendliness, relaxed charm and quick-fire wit.” And so say all of us...
To the east of the city is a lovely stretch that encompasses Middleton, home of one of Irish Distillers’ most famous distilleries, as well as Ballymaloe, Shanagarry and Youghal. Everywhere you turn, there is great food to be eaten in marvellous restaurants. And to the west, well, this is as close to heaven as it gets. The names have the ring of legend about them: Schull, Clonakilty, Rosscarbery, Skibbereen, Bantry, Kinsale. Again, this is civilised territory, where the sea meets the land and there is both wildness and beauty in equal measure.
It isn’t just us who are saying that Cork has plenty to offer in terms of entertainment, music, arts, food and culture. From the busy city of Cork, to the historic seaport of Cobh, to Carbery’s Hundred Isles, Garinish Island, Fota Wildlife Park, and with beaches, historic buildings and many award-winning restaurants, there is a lot to see and do. If you’re heading south this summer, here’s a special Hot Press Guide to Cork to give you some ideas.

FESTIVALS
Cork X Southwest
The Cork X Southwest Music and Arts Festival kicks off the summer festival season on the June Bank Holiday weekend at the Liss Ard Estate in Skibbereen, West Cork. CXSW 2011 features a powerful line-up with music from up and coming artists and old favourites alike, including Echo and the Bunnymen, the genuinely legendary Patti Smith, Fred, Jape, Nina Hynes, the recently added Peter Hook & The Lights and God Is An Astronaut. www.corkxsw.com has all the details.

Cork Midsummer Festival
Also happening this June is Cork’s Midsummer Festival, which runs from June 11th, for just over two weeks. With music, theatre, visual arts, numerous special events and the delightful roving venue, the Spiegeltent, there’s something for everyone – and more besides. Highlights include music by Laurie Anderson (a rare treat that is not to be missed) and Cathy Davey, Neil Watkin’s one-man tour de force, The Year Of Magical Wanking and the Street Performance World Championships. www.corkmidsummer.com has the full programme.

Kinsale Arts Week
The 2011 Kinsale Arts Week takes place from July 9-17 and is a Cork versus the world face-off, with local talent pitching against international acts. The Charles Fort Concerts are always a big draw and this year they offer some events you certainly won’t want to miss. On July 13, Nouvelle Vague and the West Cork Ukulele Orchestra will both reinterpret classic songs in their own unique way. On July 16, The Undertones will be playing as part of their 35th anniversary (yes, we know – it’s mad) tour with support from local heroes Exit: Pursued By A Bear. There’s free music happening at Sounds on the Square with 3epkano and The Rubberbandits among those headlining. There’s also comedy, drama, art, children’s events — and what with Kinsale being a renowned gourmet’s paradise, there will be plenty of wonderful food to tempt you too. You’d better believe it! In fact we’re dreaming of the Fishy Fishy Cafe even as we write... See kinsaleartsweek.com for more information.

Indiependence Festival
A little bit later in July, it is the turn of North Cork, as Mitchelstown comes alive with what is now well established as one of Ireland’s leading festival events. Indiependence runs this year from July 29-31 and boasts a very strong line-up with Editors, Therapy?, Ash and The Coronas topping the bill. And there is real strength in depth, with Whipping Boy, Ham Sandwich, Dan Le Sac V Scroobius Pip and Gemma Hayes also featuring. With lots of comedy and dozens more of Ireland’s leading indie stars doing their stuff, it is, as they say, a good one...

MUSIC
Live At The Marquee
Live At The Marquee returns in 2011 for its seventh consecutive year. Well established as one of the big summer events, in 2011 there are plenty of heavy hitters and big draws taking part including The Frames, Bob Dylan, Grinderman, Imelda May, Christy Moore, Fleet Foxes and Bell X1. In fact the difficulty for Corkonians is deciding which one not to go to! It is a nice kind of dilemma entirely!

Rearden’s Bar
Known for housing the best cover bands Ireland has to offer, Rearden’s has now introduced a monthly singer-songwriter night called the Platform @ Rearden’s. Run in association with Nicole Maguire, who has worked with the likes of Paul Brady, The Platform has featured performances from John Spillane, Gavin Moore and Stephanie Rainey. The next Platform gig takes place on June 20 with Berries Blue, Polly Barrett, Sarah Barry and Mishap. Gemma Hayes is due to perform later in the year. See www.reardens.com or www.facebook.com/reardens.

The Pavilion
Okay, a little bit of self-publicity here... the Hot Press run Jägermeister Freezer Sessions hit the Southern capital on Thursday June 9th – and a hell of a night it promises to be. With the mighty Fight Like Apes topping the bill we can expect punk fireworks aplenty, but the quality of the support is exceptional too. Tallaght band Bipolar Empire – who have just released a scorching debut album – are Ireland’s next-big-thing in waiting, so you really ought to catch them live as soon as you can. Add to the mix another up and coming Dublin poutfit The Shoos and local Cork underground heroes Dead School and you have the makings of a brilliant night.

ARTS & CULTURE
Cork Vision Centre @ St. Peter’s
Located in the heart of the city’s historic centre in a beautifully restored deconsecrated church, the Cork Vision Centre is one of Ireland’s top exhibition venues. This summer’s programme includes Celebrat10n, a retrospective of the centre’s last ten years, featuring photography, painting and sculpture which runs from June 7 to July 26; Danish Cornucopia, a collection of paintings by Danish artist Lief Nielsen which will be on view between July 3 and 27; and the winning entries from the annual Texaco Children’s Art Competition from August 3 to 26. See www.corkvisioncentre.com for details.

The Triskel Arts Centre
For more than thirty years, the Triskel has been one of Cork’s cultural hubs and includes a live music venue, a cinema, a visual arts space and a bookshop. A popular recurring event is The Fold, which offers a platform to experimental music of all genres. As part of this year’s Cork Midsummer Festival, on June 17 Triskel presents The Fold Solo Series Live concert featuring new work by Irish, Japanese and European composers. On July 5, Canadian folk singer and poet NEeMA takes to the stage. NEeMA is something of a protégée of0 the great Leonard Cohen, who helped produce her second album, Watching You Think, and drew the portrait of the singer that adorns the album artwork. See www.triskelart.com for more details.

ATTRACTIONS
Blarney Castle
Yes, yes, I know – kissing the Blarney Stone is an incredibly touristy thing to do, but so what? It’s fun. And even if you don’t wish to pucker up where hundreds of thousands of people have left their mark, Blarney Castle itself is still well worth a visit. The fortification was built in 1446, making it over six hundred years old. The Blarney Stone has a long and fanciful history, almost certainly highly embellished. The gift of eloquence attributed via the word ‘blarney’ can probably be attributed to an historical incident. The Earl of Leicester was commanded by Queen Elizabeth I to take possession of the castle. Whenever Leicester tried to negotiate the takeover, the wily owner McCarthy distracted him with entertainments, banquets and delays. When the earl sent back a lack-of-progress report, the queen dismissed the earl’s efforts as “blarney”. See www.blarneycastle.ie for more information.

The English Market
No visit to Cork City is complete without a trip to the English Market on Princes Street – the Queen and Prince Philip’s certainly wasn’t! Trading since 1788, it’s one of the oldest markets in Europe and a great place to try tripe and drisheen, two much-loved local delicacies. A foodie’s delight with organic veg, fish, meat and cheese, the market offers fresh produce at good prices. Back in the bad old days before we had any money, it was normal to haggle with the stallholders, a tradition that’s being revived in our straitened times. It makes sense to ask for a deal. After all, the worst they can do is say “no”.

Bantry House and Garden
Home of the Earls of Bantry, the beautiful Bantry House and Garden has been open to the public for sixty-five years – the first stately home to allow visitors in to have a good look. The garden here is a wonderful delight, with seven terraces and what is called the Hundred Steps – a massive staircase built with local stone. The garden was the special project of the second earl who based the design on gardens he had seen on the continent. Neglect over the years meant it fell into ruin until it was restored with an EEC grant in the late 1990s. There’s also lovely food to be had in the Tea Room during the day and B&B and Self-Catering accommodation. See www.bantryhouse.com.

ACCOMMODATION
The Clarion Hotel
If you want to live it up with the A-list this summer, then book a room at The Clarion in Cork’s city centre. The hotel on the River Lee is the venue of choice for artists performing at Live At The Marquee, so you could find yourself hobnobbing with the stars over your cereal. Chances are you won’t be able to get the penthouse – but never mind, the Clarion is offering a special summer break price of €69 per person including dinner, bed and breakfast. The hotel’s restaurant Kudos is also offering a €15 meal deal throughout the festival season. Unsurprisingly, a number of nights have already been sold out, so you’ll have to be quick. See www.clarionhotelcorkcity.com for availability and details.

Hayfield Manor
If luxury is your thing, then this may well be the place for you. The Hayfield Manor is an old house, covered in ivy and set in a lovely garden on College Road. The hotel is a five star destination – with lovely rooms and great food in Orchids Restaurant. Rooms don’t come cheap, but with the recession there are always ‘best value’ deals to be done. Check out www.hayfieldmanor.ie

UCC Campus Accommodation
If you’re on a budget, renting a room or apartment from University College Cork could be just the ticket. Available from June 10 to August 26 while the students are away, the campus accommodation is a popular choice for Cork’s summer festival season. Singles, doubles, twin rooms and full apartments are all available with either B&B or full board options. See www.ucccampusaccommodation.com for rates
and details.