12 Step Planet: Panama

Where exactly is it?
Panama is the most southerly country in Central America. It’s an isthmus, a narrow strip of ground that joins two major land areas, in this case the South American and North and Central American landmasses. The Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean border its northern and southern coast. Costa Rica and Colombia are to its west and east.
How do I get there?
Probably the most cost-effective route to Panama City is to fly Aer Lingus to Madrid and connect with a direct flight to Panama’s Tocumen International Airport. Flight time is approximately ten hours.
What language do they speak?
The official language is Spanish, first brought to Panama by colonists in the early 16th century. English is also increasingly popular with those working in services and the international business sector. A number of indigenous languages are also spoken, especially in remote, rural outposts.
What’s the local beer like?
Panamanian beer is nothing to write home about. The most fashionable brands are bland, weak flavoured, pale lagers, similar to mainstream American beers. Amongst the most popular varieties are Panama, Soberna and Atlas. There’s little discernible difference between them, but thankfully beer is always served close to freezing point! Panama City is one of a handful of locations around the world where Guinness is brewed under licence.
Other drinks?
Don’t leave Panama without trying their favourite tipple, a potent clear liquor called Seco Herrerano. Seco is a national institution, triple distilled from sugarcane and served mixed with everything from fruit juice to milk! Panamanian rum is some of the best in the world, with numerous brands distilled throughout
the country.
What is the transport like?
Travelling around Panama is fine by Central American standards. The Pan American Highway spans the length of the country and is in relatively good condition. There are numerous exits leading to the regional towns of the mountainous interior. Renting a car is the way to go, ensuring you’ve the freedom to explore this beautiful country at your own pace. If time isn’t on your side, it’s also possible to fly to even the remotest part of Panama by air charter. The country is dotted with numerous airstrips and there are plenty of reputable operators. Bus travel is cheap and relatively efficient, with connections departing Panama City daily to every corner of the country. Taking a bus in Panama City’s gridlocked streets is quite the experience! Known as ‘red devils’, due to their loud colour and reputation for reckless driving, buses are often insanely overcrowded and rarely if ever have air-conditioning. A safer and saner bet is to hop in a reasonably priced local taxi.
What’s the food like?
Panamanian food is a heady mix of influences, melding Spanish and Afro-Caribbean traditions with indigenous cuisine. Whether it’s a seaside food stand or a downtown restaurant, eating in Panama is laidback and enjoyable. They certainly don’t believe in getting too excited about a meal! The staple foods are coconut rice, beans and fried meats and breads. Chicken stew is a popular dish and there’s plenty of delicious seafood, which makes sense, seeing as Panama translates as ‘wealth of fish’ in Spanish. Fresh fruit is plentiful, very cheap and a healthy alternative to the widely served, cholesterol rich fried pork and corn bread breakfast.
What’s the nightlife like?
Panama City is a great place to party. The clubs never close because Panamanians love to dance all night! The locals aren’t afraid to let their hair down and there are endless bars, clubs and live venues to tickle your fancy. All the action happens in three main areas, the ‘Casco Viejo’ old colonial district, the business quarter and the spectacular Causeway Islands. The locals, men and women alike, dress to impress ensuring the city’s clubs are a match in the glamour stakes for anywhere in the world! Panama’s capital has enjoyed a huge economic boost in recent years thanks to the inward migration of Americans and well-to-do business people from neighbouring Colombia and Venezuela. High-rollers can lighten their wallets at one of the city’s major casinos and drown their sorrows in the many late-night wine bars. If you fancy a break from the super-charged club atmosphere, head to the Casco Viejo and check-out a low-key jazz club. Nowhere else in this country can match the city’s nightlife. Few places in the world for
that matter!
Why should I go?
There’s much more to Panama than the world famous canal. Whilst the capital city is a capitalist’s dream of skyscrapers and big business, much of the remaining countryside couldn’t be more different. In fact, this is Central America’s best-kept secret, bypassed by the hordes of backpackers on the beaten path heading north or south. The rural landscape of this wonderful country is unspoilt by ugly development and its small regional towns retain a welcoming, old-world charm. It’s a nature lover’s paradise, a tropical wilderness of forested highlands, rivers, wildlife and perfect blue ocean waters. It’s affordable, friendly and awe-inspiring.
What are the touristy things to do?
A trip to the paradise islands of Archipiélago de las Perlas is a must! If lazy beach life is to your liking you’ve certainly come to the right place. The ‘crossroads of the Americas’ has some of the most spectacular mountain scenery and rainforests populated by indigenous peoples. Coiba National Marine Park is simply teeming with sea life and regarded as one of the world’s best locations for snorkelling or diving. The mountainous region of Boquete is the place to go for some hot-spring therapy or an adrenaline filled white-water rafting trip! Check out the spectacular views from atop Panama’s highest point, the dormant Volcán Barú. Afterwards, you can rest your weary bones in a volcanic thermal spa. Of course, few travel to Panama without paying a visit to one of the world’s greatest feats of engineering. The Panama Canal is over 50 miles long, connects the world’s two largest oceans and, when opened in 1914, revolutionised global trade. There are numerous operators offering full and partial tours of this epic construction marvel.
Anything else?
There are so many unspoilt coastal and mountainous regions in Panama that it’s hard to pick where to go. What better way to appreciate the spectacular landscape and wildlife than in the company of one of the country’s indigenous tribes? How about traversing the tropical Chagres River in a dugout canoe with native Embera fishermen and joining them for a hearty feast followed by traditional music and dance? There are numerous opportunities to sample ancient indigenous culture throughout the country.
Anything to avoid?
Avoid straying too far off the beaten track in downtown Panama City. Muggings are commonplace, especially targeting gormless tourists. The Darién province, close to the Colombian border, is well known for kidnapping and extortion. This area is a hotbed of drug trafficking and unsurprisingly is over-subscribed with shady characters.
What should I bring home?
Why, a handmade Panama hat of course! Indigenous handicraft markets are widespread and of excellent quality. Tapestry is extremely popular, especially decorative clothing made from ‘molas’, a form of intricate design created by the Kuna Indians. Handmade, hardwood carvings from the mountainous regions also make great souvenirs.
When should I go?
It really depends on where you plan to stay. The Pacific coastal region is best visited in December to February when rainfall is at its lowest and temperatures warm, but not stifling. All in all, you can’t really go wrong during the December to April dry season. Panama is at its liveliest with festivals and activities, including the world renowned Carnaval in Panama City.
What’s my challenge?
Experience one of Central America’s most beautiful countries, a place where over thirty percent of the countryside is designated National Park. It’s a land of contrasting landscapes and peoples, high mountains, rainforests, coastal paradises and urban jungles. Most importantly, locals are warm and friendly. The greed and crass commercialism that has blighted neighbouring countries has yet to make its way to rural Panama.
What’s the currency?
There are two currencies in operation. Well, kind of... The Panamanian Balboa is the official currency, but the government stopped printing it in 1941 and adopted the US Dollar as legal tender. However, Panama continues to mint its own coins and, unsurprisingly, they are the same size, shape, weight and denomination as the US versions.
Something to remember...
There are few places on the planet with richer biodiversity than Panama. Despite the fact that it’s the size of North Carolina, Panama has over five million acres of National Park and is home to almost a thousand species of bird. That’s more than Canada and the US combined! Its unique geographical position, linking two great continents and oceans has contributed to the sheer variety of animal life. There are tours aplenty, into the tropical rainforest regions, where such unique creatures as sloths and armadillos can be seen in their natural environment. You don’t have to travel more than an hour from the paved streets of Panama City before you’re lost in a lush green world. The coastal regions are equally bountiful; Panama can boast some of the best spots for whale and turtle watching in the world.