Fashion Interview: How Dublin milliner Deb Fanning developed a unique aesthetic

The hippie movement of the 1960s and ’70s is influencing designers everywhere, as we explore with our featured Irish designer, Deb Fanning, this issue. But as the Irish milliner was affected by the Flower Power movement, the catwalks were teeming with another interpretation of the style of the era. Hippie modernism is set to define your summer wardrobe with casual glamour, imbuing your outfits with a sense of world-travelling, culturally-aware boho chic.

Chloé was the first designer to send this style down the SS19 catwalks. Creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levy seems to have combined an homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s hippie de luxe collections of the 1970s – themselves imbued with influences from Morocco, where Laurent spent a great deal of time – and the modern, festival-friendly eclecticism of what is now colloquially called ‘Coachella chic’. This draws on a smorgasbord of influences, resulting in an artfully boho vibe. But the collection defined itself as a “Mediterranean journey under the sun,”, symbolising a “new-age revival”.

NO REPRO FEE 05/03/2019 DFM by Deb Fanning Milliner. Model Simona wear Deb Fanning rose feathered and beaded crown €375. A rainbow colour palette offers pinks, purples, oranges, ivories, blue as colour choice. Silk flowers, birdcage veiling and embellishments combine to look like rich fresh bouquets. A sense of ‘hippie deluxe’ pervades throughout the collection. Photo: Sasko Lazarov/Photocall Ireland

However authentic this revival is, the recognisable elements of hippie modernism are all there. Models sashayed down the catwalk in hippie-flavored flared trousers, paréo skirts and twisted silk lariat belts, as well as slightly more literal interpretations, such as t-shirts depicting a pair of hands raised toward an ombré sunset. It’s clear that flared trousers are coming back, so it’s time to loosen your loyalty to skinny jeans. The colour palette was heavy on neutral tones such as beige, oatmeal and off-white linens, accentuated with brightly coloured accessories. Ramsay-Levi also showcased a gorgeous combination of soft drapes, vivid mixed prints, hemlines short and long, and tribal-style jewellery, showing the versatility of this trend.

Scarf prints are a big part of the hippie modernism trend, both as patterns and accents, as scarves can be used as belts, upper-arm decoration or hair accessories, adding vibrancy to outfits comprised of more muted, natural tones. Texture also plays a huge role in this trend. Chloé’s dense, chenille-like knit used for clingy jumpsuits and dresses evoked ceramics patterns, while silk blend fabrics that were woven as embellishments on coats had a beautiful, Persian rug motif. Painted ombré effects also elevated fabrics, turning plain denim into something personal, artistic and interesting.

To embody this trend, look for a combination of flowing silhouettes and interesting accessories. Maxi skirts and dresses will evoke the easy breezy attitude of hippie modernism, while accessories will allow you to bring some individual flavour to your neutral base. Focus on texture, colour and print, and combine the three to create an outfit that’s both eclectic and effortless.

For texture, look out for rope belts, macramé bags and fringe – fringe belts, jewellery and bags are all easy ways to add some interest and movement to your outfit. For embellishment on your clothes, look for intricate beading and embroidery that bring that feeling of holiday glamour to your wardrobe, as this trend is all about escaping the confines of everyday reality and embracing the freedom of expression we most often experience while travelling.

Sandals and wedges will help you feel this all the way to your toes – which, incidentally, could easily be adorned with a toe ring. Jewellery plays a big role in hippie modernism, so feel free to play with and layer up different colours, stones and textures. Pile on sculptural earrings, pendant necklaces, cuff bracelets and anklets, and look for stones and designs that make bold statements – we’re embracing the talismanic power of accessories, and how they can transform an outfit and attitude.