Designer Interview: Colin Burke - On Breathing New Life Into Irish Traditions

Combining striking digital prints and a modern interpretation of once-traditional textiles and techniques, Colin Burke’s creations have made waves in Irish fashion. Transforming the once humble Aran knit and crochet into high-fashion pieces, Burke incorporates nostalgia, tradition, tactility and modern aesthetics.

His passion for design is hereditary. His grandmother, a fashion buyer, has had a significant influence on his design process and philosophy. “My grandmother Maureen Burke is the inspiration behind a lot of my work,” reveals Burke. “She really educated my eye, and I received invaluable advice and mentorship from her. Before she died, I recorded our conversations. Playing them back gives me great inspiration.”

Burke’s personal, intimate connection to design manifests in his production process. His knit and crochet pieces are labour intensive and hand-made, allowing him to truly understand his textiles and manipulate them in new and innovative ways.

“I mainly focus on hand crochet and knit rather than working with machines,” he says. “I feel the outcome results in a much richer garment. All of my work is either hand crocheted or hand knitted, with each garment taking 40-50 hours to make. Each piece is ornate and richly patterned, and usually features trumpet sleeves to allow for a tasteful silhouette to the garment.”

While his creations are deeply unique, he draws inspiration from other designers he admires, particularly those who also work with print and traditional textiles.

“I love elements from many designers, but Richard Quinn has to be one of my favorites,” Burke says. “I love how he pushes the boundaries with print, especially in his latest collaboration with Moncler. Dior will always be a favorite of mine, too. Their recent blanket coats remind me of the Connemara shawl.”

Burke’s journey to his now signature style was not straightforward His artistic flair initially drew him in different directions.

“When I decided to go to NCAD my initial plan was to study painting. However, when I experienced a two week elective of Fashion in my core year, I knew that it was what I would enjoy the most.”

Following his gut instinct has more than paid off, as Burke has picked up several awards and accolades since graduating. He took home the award for Student Designer of the Year in 2016 at the Irish Fashion Innnovation Awards, and was named Designer to Watch by Brown Thomas the following year. He has also attracted some notable fans, including a favourite interviewee of Hot Press. Irish activist and Contributing Editor at British Vogue Sinead Burke wore one of his hand-made crochet sweaters as she was appointed to the Council of State by President Michael D Higgins earlier this year.

Colin Burke’s new collection is available at Brown Thomas Dublin for CREATE 2019. There are also plenty of other exciting plans in the works: “I am currently working on a full hand crochet look that’s going to be showcased very soon for a very exciting project,” he reveals.

• You can contact Colin Burke at [email protected], visit his website colin-burke.com or find him on Instagram at @colinburke