Into The West

The Village People famously told us to ‘Go West’, enthusiastically followed by the Pet Shop Boys and the Ambrosia custard people, and hey, who are we to argue with music and dessert royalty? As festival season kicks into high gear, there’s never been a better time to visit the picturesque area of Irish countryside occupied by Galway, Mayo, Sligo and Roscommon.

The Staycation generation (otherwise known as those of us without a yacht to sail to St. Barts) can’t get enough of Ireland’s Westerly delights, so we thought we’d join them for a little coastline cruising, stopping off in some of the best cultural hotspots, live music venues and adventure centers along the way.
There’s lots of ways to see this particularly pretty part of the country; a no-holds-barred adventure holiday along the rugged West coast, a cosy countryside getaway, or even blow-out, choon-filled weekender.
Granted, we can’t show you around the entire West of Ireland in one go (there is rather a lot of it!), but this collection of highlights should help kick your Staycation planning into high gear.
We’ve listed some of our favourite Westerly pit-stops below, plus a run-down of the best adventure centers Ireland has to offer, while over the page, fiddle-wielding electro whiz and Galway native Daithi takes us around his home city.
After that, all that’s left is for us to wish you bon voyage on your trip. Do bring us back a stick of rock, won’t you?

FESTIVALS

No Place Like Dome
Temple House Estate, Sligo,
June 15 to 17.
npld.ie

With the award-winning Temple House festival taking a break for 2012, No Place Like Dome might be your only chance to get inside this stunning Sligo estate this year. Founded in 2008, when 40-odd revellers set up shop in a Tipperary field, the festival has grown immeasurably in the last four years with an 80-strong team of homegrown acts making up this year’s bill. The relatively new weekender operates with self-sufficiency at its core, inviting patrons to bring what they need and take it all home again. But don’t be fooled into thinking you’ll have to rough it Boy Scouts-style, the festival promises hot showers, “a BBQ that Paul Hogan himself has blessed” and “a kitchen your granny would be proud to bake in.” Heading up this year’s line-up are The Hot Sprockets, Blind Yackety, The Raglans, The Jam Band, The Amazing Few, New Secret Weapon, Wyvern Lingo, Twin Headed Wolf and far, far too many more to mention.

Galway Arts Festival
Various venues, Galway, July 16 to 29.
galwayartsfestival.com

The highlight of every Galwegian’s Summer calendar, The Galway Arts Festival is damn near legendary at this stage, having welcomed the mind-blowing talents of Joni Mitchell, David Byrne, Blondie, Primal Scream, Bon Iver and Philip Glass over the years. Founded in 1978, it’s now one of Ireland’s best-loved arts events, as evidenced by the incredible turn-out in 2011, when 162,000 people attended 176 performances, talks and exhibitions in 27 venues over 14 days. In 2012, the festival gets a real treat in the form of unbeatably funky disco legends Chic, who take to the stage on July 19. Also bringing the noise in the festival Big Top will be Christy Moore and Declan Sinnott (20), James Vincent McMorrow and Lisa Hannigan (26) and The Coronas, The Kanyu Tree and Bressie (27), while a selection of more intimate shows will exploit the ample talents of local heroes Crash Ensemble (19), Keywest (28) and the West Cork Ukulele Orchestra (16), as well as international acts like Singapore’s T’Ang Quartet (28), Canada’s Michael Kaeshammer (23, 24) and Nashville’s Gretchen Peters (23). Also taking Galway by storm in the festival’s 35th year will be the world premiere of The Great Goat Bubble, a new play by Julian Gough, Tony Award-winners John Mahoney and Rondi Reed, who star in Bruce Graham’s The Outgoing Tide, world-renowned funnyman and voice actor Michael Winslow and former president Mary Robinson, who talks about her remarkable life and career in conversation with Fintan O’ Toole. Plus, in true Arts Festival tradition, a gaggle of parading street performers will take to Galway’s streets, bringing a whole lot of good vibrations with them.

LIVE MUSIC

Kelly’s Bar
Bridge St., Galway. Tel. 091 563804
kellysbar.ie

With a welcoming atmosphere, cosy snugs and a team of helpful barkeeps, Kelly’s has fast become one of Galway’s most vibrant pubs. A firm favorite amongst music lovers, the state-of-the-art upstairs venue has seen international acts like The Magic Numbers, Darren Emerson, O’ Death, Scroobius Pip and Norman Jay take to stage, as well as home-grown acts like Duke Special, Whipping Boy and The Saw Doctors. The venue also plays host to The Little Cinema Club, a short film night which invites local filmmakers showcase their work, and design-oriented show-and-tell night Pecha Kucha. Boasting a 2am curfew on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, the bar features live music from The Window Sessions with some of Galways finest funk, soul and bluegrass bands playing ‘til close. Appearing on the bill this summer is Texan singer-songwriter Alejandro Escovedo (June 29), the Grammy award-winning Dave Alvin And The Guilty Ones (July 20) and Gretchen Peters (July 23) as part of the Galway Arts Festival, along with international DJ’s Krafty Kuts and A. Skillz (July 27). On the very likely chance that you party a little bit too hard during your stay in Galway, the hearty, locally-sourced food from Kelly’s Kitchen will see you right (the all-day breakfast comes highly recommended).

Monroe’s
Dominick St., Galway.
Tel. 087 978 3245
monroes.ie

Monroe’s came to Galway’s West in December 2009, bringing a hopping new live music hub with it. Situated above the well-known Monroe’s Tavern, the live venue contains three bars over two floors and, in just three short years, has welcomed shows from some of the country’s best covers and tribute bands, as well as many original Irish and international acts. Expect everything from folk to rock, to the finest traditional music artists and cover bands when you pop into Monroe’s, plus major international acts like Sharon Shannon, Damien Dempsey, Sharon Corr, Republic of Loose and Julie Feeney. The Tavern itself has long been a Galway institution, often photographed for its classic facade and famed for its warm, welcoming interior, friendly staff, live acoustic sessions and excellent food (a pizza joint buried within serves up some of the city’s best grub-to-go, seven days a week). This Summer, Monroe’s Live has planned shows as part of the Volvo Ocean Race and The Fringe Festival, as well as special performances from The Henry Girls (July 20), Damien Dempsey on (July 22), Keywest on (July 28) and trad lunchtimes shows, all as part of Galway Arts Festival.

The Róisín Dubh
Lower Dominick St., Galway.
Tel. 091 586 540
roisindubh.net

A trip to the West is simply not complete without a pint and a few tunes in this legendary venue. In Galway’s West End, the Róisín Dubh has long been recognised as the spiritual home of music and comedy in the city. Not only known for championing local and national talent, the Róisín is also the first stop in the West for international touring artists. In fact, we can barely count the number of verging-on-massive acts who we first clapped eyes on in this humble Dominick St. hub. Acts love the Róisín for the same reason that customers do – it’s a venue that appreciates and nurtures talent, and while it’s not afraid to take a chance on emerging artists, it’s also a delightfully intimate spot to catch an international name. The Jägermeister Freezer Sessions drop by on June 21 with performances by Jape, Dott, The Riptide Movement and Preachers Son, while other artistes gracing June’s bill include Mundy (15), Ray Davies (22) and This Club (28). And remember, the Róisín is open late night seven nights a week, with DJs cranking out the tunes upstairs and downstairs.

ARTS AND CULTURE

The Quiet Man Museum
Cong, Mayo, Tel. 094 954 6846
quietman-cong.com

If the rest of the world romanticises Irish country life somewhat, there’s only one film to blame; John Ford’s 1952 classic The Quiet Man. 60 years after John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara’s fiery romance first hit movie screens, the film is still one of the best-loved flicks ever made on Irish shores, so it’s little surprise that hundreds of fans flock to Cong, Co. Mayo every year to visit the spot where it was shot. The Quiet Man Museum is a little on the cosy side, just two rooms big, but if this bothers you, you’ll have to take it up with Mr. Ford’s estate – the museum is an exact replica of the cottage at the centre of the movie’s plot. But fear not, fact fans – a guided tour will take you around many of the film’s other locations, and while you’re journeying around Ireland’s Lake District, you can easily swing by the 4,000-year-old Cong Abbey or infamous celeb haunt Ashford Castle.

The Model Arts Centre
The Mall, Sligo, Tel. 071 914 14 05
themodel.ie

A one-stop shop for art, music, film and comedy, The Model Arts Centre is one of Sligo’s most prized cultural hubs and proud home to the impressive Niland Collection of art, one of the most notable collections in Ireland featuring works by John and Jack B. Yeats, Estella Solomons and Louis LeBrocquy. The Model’s international film programme, presented in partnership with the Irish Film Institute, shows the best classic, arthouse and documentary flicks from around the globe in the centre’s cinema, while the Mall venue regularly welcomes comedians and musicians through its doors, with Dead Cat Bounce (June 16) the Sligo Baroque Orchestra (21) and Andy Irvine (23) all due to tread the boards later this month.

ACCOMMODATION

Radisson Blu
Lough Atalia Road, Galway.
Tel. 091 538 300
radissonhotelgalway.com

Established in 2001, the four-star Radisson Blu Hotel provides a perfect mix of inner-city life and countryside charm, located just a few minutes walk from the centre of Galway, and boasting unrivalled views of Lough Atalia and Galway Bay, with easy access to the Aran Islands and Connemara. Comprising 282 ensuite guest rooms including standard rooms, family rooms, Penthouse suites and serviced apartments, the Radisson Blu is more than just a place to rest your head. The hotel houses four restaurants; the 220-seater spilt-level Restaurant Marinas, the spectacular Atrium Bar & Lounge, the cosy Veranda Lounge, and a brand new sushi restaurant, which has been getting rave reviews from critics and Galwegian foodies alike (RAW; Sushi In The Sky invites guests to dine on traditionally prepared fish, diced up by master Japanese chef Hisashi Kumagai, while peering out at the Atlantic Ocean. What’s not to like?) The purpose-built, state-of-the-art Live Lounge venue has welcomed some huge names to its stage over the years, including Mumford & Sons, Mogwai and Badly Drawn Boy, and continues to build on its entertainment line-up in the 6000 square ft-venue. The Radisson Blu is currently offering Summer discounts on two-night or three-night stays, which you find out more about at the above web address.

The G Hotel
Wellpark, Dublin Road, Galway, Tel. 091 865 200
theghotel.ie

One of Galway’s most luxurious places of shelter, The G is as chic as Irish hotels come, which is why it’s long been the preferred watering hole of Galway’s fashion-conscious population. Designed by renowned milliner and bessie mate of Lady Gaga, Philip Treacy, the hotel is a particularly big hit with groups of women, who come from all parts of the country to sip cocktails in the Andy Warhol-inspired Ladies Lounge. The five-star ESPA spa is another big draw, as is the idyllic location overlooking Galway Bay.

Strandhill Lodge
Top Road, Strandhill, Sligo, Tel. 071 912 2122
strandhilllodgeandsuites.com

The current holder of tripadvisor.com’s Traveler’s Choice award, Strandhill Lodge is located within driving distance of a handful of the country’s best golf clubs and within strolling distance of some of its loveliest beaches. Boasting beautiful views of the ocean and the Knocknarea mountains, it’s the perfect spot to sample Irish country living with a twist – the hotel is renowned for its VOYA seaweed baths, while a special Top Gun package includes flying lessons over the Strandhill peninsula. If all that, or, indeed hiking, biking, surfing or kayaking, sounds like too much for you, you can take it easy with a horse-drawn carriage tour of the area.