12 Step Planet: Seattle

How do I get there?
A range of carriers provide flights to Seattle from Dublin. American Airlines flies via Chicago, KLM via Amsterdam and British Airways via London. Seattle-Tacoma International Airport is 10 miles from the centre of the city. There are a variety of transport options. The cheapest is the bus, which takes 30-40 mins and costs $1.25.
When should I go?
Seattle’s climate is classed as Oceanic which means it’s mild and rainy, enabling year-round visits. Summer is best as it’s the driest time of year.
June has lots to offer with the Pike Place Market Festival, Fremont Street Fair and the Seafair all taking place.
If food and drink are your passion plan a July trip for the International Beerfest, Bite Of Seattle (featuring offerings from 50 local restaurants, 25 Washington State wineries and 30 food product vendors) and the Ballard Seafood Festival with its famed salmon barbecue.
What are the touristy things to do?
The famous Space Needle is a must — on a clear day, the views over the city and Elliot Bay are spectacular. The neighbouring Experience Music Project and the Science Fiction Museum are also well worth a visit. The former has a fantastic exhibition on the history of grunge and the guitar. Another highlight is the room devoted to legendary native son Jimi Hendrix, which features an addictive interactive mixing desk (hearing ‘Crosstown Traffic’ broken down into its component parts only affirms his genius). The latter has a host of treasures for those of a nerdy disposition!
Anything else?
Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour offers a mesmerising introduction to 'old Seattle'. In 1889 Seattle burnt down and due to continuous flooding problems was rebuit ten feet higher. The old stores became the basements of the new buildings. In the thirties the subterranean area was packed with brothels, speakeasies and various other dens of ill repute until it was officially closed.
What about eating?
You can’t visit Seattle without trying some of the excellent seafood and checking out the famous Pike Place Market. There’s also a plethora of restaurants nearby with a mindboggling arrray of marine fare cooked in a variety of imaginative ways. Etta’s Seafood (2020 Western Ave) and Flying Fish (2234 1st Ave) offer tasty Asian-influenced menus. Also, caffeine connoisseurs will be pleased to hear Seattle has a reputation for heavy coffee consumption. Many coffee companies such as Starbucks and Tully’s were founded there.
What should I avoid?
The rain! Seattle is known informally as ‘Rain City’, so don’t go out unprepared for a sudden downfall. Of course, Irish visitors are not unacquainted with rain and it shouldn’t prove too much of a deterrent.
Where can I stay?
Like any major international city, Seattle has loads of accommodation options. There are a variety of chain hotels (Travelodge, Holiday Inn) near the Space Needle which are reasonably priced and provide a good base from which to explore the city. The Green Tortoise Hostel (1525 2nd Avenue) and the City Hostel (2327 Second Avenue) are centrally located and ideal for those on a budget.
How much to get tanked?
There are umpteen watering holes in a city famed for its love of beer. The Belltown or Capitol Hill areas are home to a selection of inviting establishments where you can wet your whistle.
The Central Saloon in Pioneer Square is a must for any music lover, as within its walls the legendary purveyors of grunge first cut their teeth – Alice In Chains, Soundgarden and Nirvana all graced its dingy stage.
Microbreweries are huge here, and if you’re a beer-lover there’s a dizzying array of choice. The Pike Pub and Brewery is definitely worth a look. Visitors can partake in The Pike Sampler (6 pre-selected 4oz glasses) for $9. Schooners cost $3.75, pints $4.75 and a pitcher is $14.75.
What should I bring home?
Most of the microbreweries do reasonably priced gift-packs of a selection of their finest brews. The perfect present for the beer aficionado.
Vinyl lovers should head straight to Jive Time Records (3506 Fremont Avenue) to find that second-hand rarity for your someone special at home (fantastic selection at cheap-as-chips prices).
Why should I go?
It’s the birthplace of grunge for fuck sake! Walk the streets where Kurt Cobain ambled. Have a beer in the Central and imagine a young Eddie Vedder wowing the crowd. Soak up the sights and sounds that inspired one the the most influential musical movements of the late 20th century.
Why should I not go?
Weather and traffic – both not great. If this is going to be an issue for you you may have to reconsider your trip.
What’s my challenge?
As a Frasier fan – to not expect to bump into Kelsey Grammer on the street, or see Daphne walking Eddie or Marty strolling down to Duke’s for a swift half. Surprisingly difficult if you’re a hardcore devotee!