4 Main Street, Celbridge

Tel: (01) 627 4967

canteencelbridge.com

The food is as complex as the décor is minimal in this understated Kildare gem, which James Sheridan and Soizic Humbert launched three years ago after bequeathing their original Blackrock Market premises to the Michelin-starred Heron & Grey. The four starters/four mains menu/four desserts menu means that everything has lots of love lavished on it.

Best Dish: Feighcullen Duck Breast with Potato & Brown Terrine & Braised Red Cabbage – €28.50