5 The Arches, Gashouse Lane, Kilkenny

Tel: (056) 777 2858

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Garrett Byrne, former head chef of Chapter One, and Brid Hannon have been serving up superb modern French food here for the past nine years, in a lovely dining-room featuring banquette seating, bright colours and oak flooring. The menu of six starters and six mains is compact but the food itself is expansively generous. A Three-Course Early Bird is available for €35, with the Roast Pheasant Breast & Sausage with Braised Red Cabbage & Crushed Swede a particular Best of Ireland-favourite.

Best Dish: Loin of Wild Venison, Glazed Royale, Crushed Swede, Cabbage & Chestnut – €32