12 Step Planet: Venice

Where exactly is it?)
Venice is on a small island off north east Italy. South of the Alps. it’s close to Verona, Florence and Milan. An economic powerhouse through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, Venice is today a top tourist destination.
How do I get there?
Aer Lingus provides direct flights four times a week. Try to nab a window seat – the view of the Alps is spectacular on a sunny day. Water taxis are expensive; the €6 vaporetto bus service is a far cheaper option. 12-hour cards start from €18 with a week-long pass great value at €50 if you’re hanging around (www.venicewelcome.com/actv/vaporetto.htm).
What’s the transport like?
By foot or gondola. A compact city, Venice is nonetheless an adventure to navigate. Make sure you have a good map such as The Touring Club of Italy’s 1:5000 series. Even veterans can get lost in the backstreets. Don’t be shy about asking for directions – the locals don’t bite.
What should I bring home?
The obvious souvenirs are of course the famed Venetian masks. But before you grab the first you see, be aware that Venice is swamped with mask vendors. Many are exported to costume shops including ones in Dublin. Instead, try visiting authentic mask retailers such as La Bottega dei Mascareri. While these may be more expensive, they’re worth the extra few euros, not to mention the feelgood effect of knowing you’re supporting local arists. Murano glass is another must-have Venetian souvenir, and while there’s a fantastic range of items available in Venice, it’s safer to go for something small such as jewellery, to ensure it survives the journey home. Many of the best places to see and buy Murano glass are off the beaten track. The Alice In Wonderland Fine Arts Gallery, for example, is a must-see (www.alicefinearts.com).
Why should I go?
It hardly needs pointing out that Venice possesses a cityscape like no other. The absence of traffic is another, more surprising, attraction. No fumes, no noise pollution, no beeping horns. Heavenly! Venice is also a very safe city, aside from pickpockets. Low crime rates means there are no safety issues to put a dampener on a night out.
Why should I not go?
Venice is certainly not the cheapest to visit. If you’re on a budget, there are smarter options. Prices at the main tourist hangouts are exorbitant, but head down the sidestreets and there are relative bargains to be had.
When should I go?
On the Mediterranean Venice can get oppressively hot, humid and smelly in summer. If you can’t really take the heat it may therefore be wise to stay clear in July and August.
What’s the touristy thing to do?
Piazza San Marco has to be on your to-do list. It houses Saint Mark’s Basicila and also Doge’s Palace and the clock tower. It swarms with both tourists and pigeons during the day. Late evening and early morning are good times to visit if you want to avoid the crowds. Of course, no trip to Venice would be complete without a gondola ride. But €80 euro for 40 minutes (€100 after 7pm), you may want to opt for an (admittedly less romantic) waterbus. Following a series of complaints about drunk gondoliers, the city is considering introducing random breath tests.
Anything else?
The Venetian ghetto is historically home to the city’s Jewish population. This quiet little area not only has an intriguing and informative museum, but also a gift shop and a number of bakeries. All well worth exploring.
What about dining?
Venice is heaving with restaurants and cafés. Avoid over-priced tourist traps, though. These are usually recognisable by the hosts out front attempting to entice customers. Instead eat where Venetians eat. These are usually away from busy tourist attractions and packed with locals. Great budget places to try are Osteria Garanghelo (www.garanghelo.com) for seafood and El Refelo (www.elrefolo.it) for €2.50 wine and the Venetian answer to tapas, cichetti. Don’t forget the gelato – it shames every other ice cream out there.
What should I avoid?
Don’t get lost in the backstreets. At night the winding alleys and single-file bridges all look the same. You may be reduced to using the light from your phone in a desperate attempt to read your map.
Pickpocketing is quite a problem. Avoid putting down handbags and wallets. Don’t leave any valuables in plain sight.