12 Step Planet: Vancouver

Where exactly is it?

Vancouver is the largest city in western Canada. Thirty miles north of the US border, it stands on the Pacific coastal fringe of the province of British Columbia. This growing conurbation has expanded rapidly since the eighties. Today, there are in excess of 2.3 million located on the Burrard Peninsula. It’s sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by Vancouver Island and is sandwiched between the Burrard Inlet to the north and Fraser River to the south.

How do I get there?

There are no direct flight options from Dublin to Vancouver. However, shopping around should guarantee a good-value return package.
A combination of Aer Lingus to Amsterdam and KLM to Vancouver is currently the best value available and will have you post to post in a little over 12 hours.

What language do they speak?

For the majority of citizens, the language of daily business is, of course, English. However, Vancouver’s extensive ethnic communities ensure a variety of tongues are heard on the city streets. Mandarin and Cantonese are widely spoken by the sizeable Chinese population. In fact, over 30 percent of Vancouver’s citizens are of Chinese descent! In addition to the Chinese community, there are sizeable populations of Korean, Filipino, Vietnamese and Japanese people. Vancouver also boasts a large number of cultural neighbourhoods, originally populated by immigrants from around the globe. These include Greektown, Little Italy and districts settled by Irish, German and Scandinavian migrants.

What is the local beer like?

British Columbia boasts a rich tradition of producing first-rate beer. Each year ‘Vancouver Craft Beer Week’ celebrates the diversity of tipples brewed in the western state. The choice is very broad and every taste catered for. For something totally different check out Whistle’s ‘Honey Lager’ or exceptional ‘Wheat Ale’. The Squamish brewery produces a unique ‘Pumpkin Ale’, which simply must be sampled! With brewpubs scattered around the city the choice is endless...

Other drinks?

British Columbia has a long history of wine production. The industry continues to grow year-on-year with nearly 200 licensed wineries currently listed. One of the five designated areas is nearby Vancouver Island, known locally for its fine merlot and pinot noir varieties.

What is the transport like?

Vancouver is second only to San Francisco for the size of its Trolleybus, or ‘trackless tram’, fleet. A concerted effort by city planners to reduce urban traffic has been very successful. They imposed punitive restrictions on drivers, whilst simultaneously encouraging them to avail of more cost effective public transport. The Translink Company operate the excellent B-Line city bus service and the rapid transit Skytrain network. The city is currently engaged in an ambitious project to extend the Skytrain service to outlying neighbourhoods.

What’s the food like?

Vancouver is a great place to eat. The influence of ethnic cuisine is strong and the variety broad.
Unsurprisingly, fish lovers are spoilt for choice in the waterfront area. The upwardly mobile Yaletown and Granville island districts are also a big hit with foodies! Yaletown was once a rundown warehouse district on the fringes of the downtown area. Today it’s home to everything from swanky French bistros to authentic Chinese and Japanese restaurants. The choice is endless and quality excellent. Kitsilano is the place to go for wholesome Greek fare.

What’s the nightlife like?

Laid back Vancouver certainly isn’t a New York. Nevertheless, there’s a fair diversity of places to go after dark. The Granville Street area is where university students go to play and is home to many flashy clubs and dingy pubs. Yaletown’s where the beautiful people hangout and the alternative crew head to Gastown’s cobbled streets. Vancouver has a sizeable gay community that tend to party in the Davie Street area. For something a little different head to the Kitsilano district. Once a famed hippie quarter, today Kitsilano is full of ethnic bars and eateries.

Why should I go?

Vancouver is always near the top-of-the-pile in the ‘world’s most liveable cities’ short-list and for good reason. Within easy reach of the downtown is a natural wonderland of fabulous beaches, dense forests and snow-capped mountains. Nature lovers and adventure sports enthusiasts couldn’t wish for a better destination. Despite its size Vancouver retains its laidback charm and its citizens never seem in a rush. Unsurprisingly, the recent economic downturn has seen many young Irish professionals relocating to ‘Terminal City’.

What are the touristy things to do?

Vancouver’s most visited tourist attraction is Stanley Park, a vast green amenity area. This beautiful parkland is also home to the city aquarium, numerous tennis courts, mini-golf and a couple of first-rate city beaches. The Granville Island area is famed for its large public market, which showcases the regions rich cultural heritage. Robson Street is where it’s at for shopaholics and for a taste of eastern culture head to Chinatown. Probably the most memorable landmark in Vancouver is Canada Place, a gigantic convention centre/cruise ship terminal complex built for EXPO ’86. The restored Gastown district is also well worth a visit. Its cobbled streets are decorated with fine, period buildings and Canada’s most famous timepiece, the ‘steam clock’, which blows off a blast of vapour every fifteen minutes. Vancouver hosted the 2010 Winter Olympics with BC Place Stadium masquerading as the Olympic Stadium. Calling all anoraks; for a taste of the local sporting obsession head to Rogers Arena for a Vancouver Canucks ice-hockey game. You won’t be disappointed!

Anything else?

Vancouver is sometimes referred to as ‘Vansterdam’ due to the city’s relaxed attitude to marijuana use. There’s even a tour company that specialises in guided visits to the ‘pot block’ district of Hastings and Cambie. While technically illegal, marijuana smoking is tolerated in this area. Beware: Vancouver’s notoriously strong ‘BC weed’ is not for the faint-hearted!

Anything to avoid?

The thought of a romantic, moonlit walk through Stanley Park might seem like a good idea, but is best avoided. Vancouver is an extremely safe city, but the famed city park is well known for muggings and attacks after dark. The downtown’s eastside is also a little shady and worthy of a wide berth after sundown.

What should I bring home?

The city’s oldest district, Gastown, is the place to go for gifts and mementos. If you’ve an interest in Native American Indian culture there are a number of traders selling authentic masks and totems. The sheer variety of stores in the area is impressive. It’s got everything from vintage clothing to wilderness provisions outlets and even ‘Button Button’, a shop offering the world’s most diverse collection of buttons!

When should I go?

During the winter months of January to March the city experiences some very heavy rain. Conversely, the nearby mountain ski-resorts are knee-deep in snow during this period! It really depends on what you’re after. For some pleasant Canadian sunshine the period from July to September is your best bet.

What’s my challenge?

Try to quickly readjust to the mellow-paced lifestyle of this fabulous city. Sample the excellent cuisine and later, work it all off by strolling, jogging or rollerblading through Stanley Park. Take time to explore the wilderness on your doorstep and experience the natives’ passion for major league ice-hockey.

What’s the currency?

The Canadian Dollar (CAD$)

Something to remember...

Vancouver’s reputation as one of the world’s most liveable cities hasn’t gone unnoticed internationally. In order to help facilitate an increased number of residency applications, the Canadian government has recently adopted a policy of offering multiple-entry visas. However, moving to Vancouver, even for a short-spell, is often a major culture shock for many immigrants, including Irish. It may be a major metropolis, but don’t expect the cross-town traffic and hectic nightlife of an NYC or London.