12 Step Planet: Transylvania

Where exactly is it?
Count Dracula’s homeland is in central Romania, bordered on the south and east by the Carpathian Mountains. A richly forested, beautiful land of mountains, valleys and rolling meadows, the area’s name derives from the Latin ‘ultrasylvania’, meaning “on the other side of the woods”. The area known as Transylvania (which often includes the very traditional regions of Maramures, Crisana and Banat as well as Transylvania proper) has been occupied by everyone from the Romans to the Hungarians, but has been part of Romania since the end of World War II.
How do I get there?
One of Transylavania’s most beautiful towns, and a good base for exploring, Brasov is 167 kilometres north of Bucharest: trains to Brasov leave from Bucharest’s Gara de Nord roughly every two hours. Aer Lingus fly from Dublin to Bucharest. More interesting, perhaps, is to get the night train from Budapest (both Aer Lingus and Ryanair operate direct flights to the Hungarian capital) and wake up amid the horse-drawn ploughs in the fields of Northern Transylvania, which feels like stepping back in time. It’s also an affordable way to travel first-class, although that doesn’t stop you being woken in the middle of the night by two sets of grumpy border officials, Hungarian and Romanian, to check your passport. The train from Budapest stops at Sighisoara (see touristy things below) and Brasov, en route to Bucharest.
What language do they speak?
You might expect Romanian, given its location, to sound like the Finno-Ugric Hungarian or the Slavic languages, but the national tongue of Romania (and thus, Transylvania) is a romance language, and has much in common with Italian, French, Spanish and Portuguese.
What is the local beer like?
Romanians are amongst the biggest beer drinkers in the world, but a lot of their indigenous beers (Ursus, Bergenbier, Ciuc and Silva) are now owned by multinationals, Heineken and Molson Coors, while Tuborg is also brewed locally, so don’t be surprised to see it pretty much everywhere. Still, when temperatures get very high in summer, you won’t really care who owns the brewery as long as the beers are cold, tasty and plentiful. The even better news is that it’s one of the cheapest pints in Europe at around €1-1.50.
Other drinks?
Romanian wine is surprisingly good. While the vineyards and winemaking standards generally crumbled under Soviet rule, since the fall of the Iron Curtain, Romania’s wine quality has improved greatly, and the country is now one of the world’s top 10 wine producers, with 2% of arable land given over to vineyards. The best local grape varieties include Feteasca Regala and Feteasca Alba (both white) and Feteasca Neagra (red). As usual with wine, quality varies and while you will get a bottle in a Sighisoara tavern for about €5, you might be better advised to spend a little more for something that doesn’t taste like diluted blackcurrant. You should also try local spirit Tiuca, made from prunes, which carries quite a kick, but at least should keep you good and regular, right?
What is the transport like?
Trains and buses through Transylvania are sloooooooooow, with the 167-kilometre journey from Bucharest to Brasov taking around three hours. When the scenery is so pretty, with sweeping meadows, forested hills, ancient ruins and picture-postcard villages, you should relax and take it all in at your leisure. There’s something decidedly charming about the local trains, which travel about the same speed as a septuagenarian cyclist, and you’ll also get to share your space with real Transylvanians on their way to work in the fields, scythes in hand, which can be a little disconcerting at 7am.
What’s the food like?
Like most places east of Berlin, the food is heavy on the... heaviness. While not as stodgy as some Eastern cuisines, meaty stews abound and pork features extensively on most menus, as does cabbage (Romania is one of the world’s leading cabbage producers). Local specialties include Sarmale, minced pork with rice and spices rolled up in marinated cabbage leaves, or Mici, a kind of skinless sausage made from grilled pork and beef.
The local fare is extremely fresh and portions are generous. For those who like their food a little lighter, or more varied, most big towns have a variety of international cuisines available: Brasov, in particular, has a decent foodie culture, with good French and Mexican restaurants for when you get cabbaged out.
What’s the nightlife like?
Not exactly Ibiza, but there are plenty of bars lashing out cheap beer, and if you venture to Romania’s second biggest city and Transylvania’s unofficial capital, Cluj-Napoca, you’ll find a sizeable student population keen to stay up half the night imbibing. Brasov and Sighisoara, meanwhile, are definitely quieter affairs but you’ll still find plenty of watering holes, including the former’s rather decent Irish bar, Deane’s.
Why should I go?
Loads of reasons, depending on the time of year and what floats your holiday boat. In winter, Transylvania is a cracking, cheap ski resort. The rest of the year, it provides incredible hiking country. But for those of a less athletic persuasion (like yours truly), there’s still plenty to see and do in this gorgeous part of the world. Temperatures soar in summer, although last year’s August heatwave, which saw highs in the mid-40s, was unusual, so why not kick back in the sun and soak up Brasov’s coffee and cocktail culture or potter around the stalls selling traditional Transylvanian tat in Sighisoara’s medieval square? The landscape is beautiful, the people friendly, the prices extremely reasonable and if you’re into castles, Transylvania is manna from heaven.
What are the touristy things to do?
The land made famous by Dubliner Bram Stoker (who never actually visited Transylvania) is doing its bit to encourage fans of the fanged fiend. The stunning medieval citadel of Sighisoara, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the birthplace of Vlad Tepes, who became Vlad the Impaler, the real life historical figure on which Stoker based his toothy Count. Make sure to visit the beautiful 13th Century clock tower, which dominates the skyline, while you can also grab some lunch in Vlad Tepes House, which is supposedly the one-time home of the Wallachian prince, who loved nothing more than to stick huge spears through vanquished foes, hence his nickname. Meanwhile, in Brasov, you can take time out from people watching to visit the Black Church, Romania’s leading Gothic cathedral, which features 119 Anatolian/Turkish carpets, donated by German merchants thankful to have survived their trips to the “barbaric” lands south and east of the Carpathians in the 17th and 18th centuries. 24 kilometres south-west of beautiful Brasov is Bran Castle, which the authorities are promoting as Dracula’s Castle, even though Vlad supposedly only stayed here for a few nights – his real fortress lies in ruins on a cliff at Poenari, some 60 kilometres east of Bran. Facts aside, though, Bran Castle certainly looks the part, perched on a massive rock, with imposing towers, spooky turrets and more nooks and crannies than Hogwarts. On the way back to Brasov, check out the restored Teutonic Knights’ fortress overlooking the town of Rasnov. For the dedicated castle hunters among you, Transylvania is also home to the fairytale Peles Castle in Sinaia, a 130-year-old palace that served as the summer residence of the Romanian royal family until 1947, as well as the finest collection of fortified churches in Europe.
Anything else?
A trip to Transylvania could easily take in a few days in Romania’s capital, Bucharest, as well. Not the prettiest of cities, the capital more than makes up for its lack of aesthetics with a heaving pub and club scene, including some decent indie venues.
Anything to avoid?
Cemeteries after midnight, of course: is that a stake in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?
What should I bring home?
Vampire tat, obviously. You can get Vlad Tepes t-shirts, keyrings, fridge magnets and destined-for-the-attic ceramic plates.
When should I go?
Summer can be seriously hot, so be prepared. Winter’s great for skiing and snowboarding at Poaina Brasov, one of the most affordable winter sports resorts anywhere on the continent. Spring or autumn are just about perfect for everything else.
What’s my challenge?
Stay more than two nights in Brasov without falling in love with the easy-going lifestyle, the cheap beer, good food and even the cheesy Hollywood-style sign on Mount Tampa, which overlooks the old town.
What’s the currency?
The Romanian Leu (plural Lei), of which there are roughly 4.5 to the euro.
Something to remember...
Dracula actually translates as son of the dragon. Vlad’s father, the originally named Vlad II, was a member of the Order of the Dragon, a secret society charged with protecting Christianity in Eastern Europe. Vlad III spent much of his life doing just that, by waging war against the Ottoman Empire. While he may not have sucked blood from people’s necks, the cruel Vlad was rumoured to have dipped his bread in buckets of blood taken from his victims. By the time he was killed in battle against the Ottomans in 1476, it is estimated that Vlad III had killed up to 100,000 men, women and children.