12 Step Planet: Seville

Where exactly is it?

Seville is at the southern tip of Spain in sunny Andalusia. The city is right between the sun, sea and sand of Malaga, the tourist attractions of Cordoba and Granada and the Portuguese border. Even the African continent is only a few hours away.

How do I get there?

There are direct Ryanair flights from Dublin to Seville from mid-spring to the end of October. It only takes 30 minutes to get from Seville airport and there are shuttle buses available which drop you into the centre of town.
If you’re planning to travel to Seville during the winter months, the best way would be to fly direct to Malaga, then rent a car or take the train to Seville. The trip from Malaga to Seville should take a couple of hours.

What language do they speak?

The local lingo is a regional variation of Spanish. If you have a wee bit of Spanish, don’t be surprised to find yourself grasping at straws when trying to understand the Sevillanos. To put it mildly, the Andalusian accent is to Spanish what the Cork accent is to English – superior in every way!

What’s the local beer like?

The most impressive thing about alcohol in Seville is how cheap it is compared to Ireland. Cruzcampo is the most popular beer in that part of Spain. There are small traditional bars on nearly every street, if you want to drink the Spanish way. The most well-known of these is El Rinconcillo.

Other drinks?

There is one bar called Blues in the Alfalfa district of the city that gives you a choice of up to 50 shots ranging from a whiskey/Bailey's/tequila/vodka concoction to a kiwi and vodka shot that looks and tastes toxic. On the same street as Blues, be sure to check out Robotica. It’s tiny but the mojitos most definitely are not.

What’s the transport like?

Taxis are dirt cheap compared to Dublin. Getting from one end of the city to another costs a tenner at the most. Most of the important tourist sites are in the city centre so buses and trams aren’t necessary except for the chronically lazy.
Seville’s city council provides a bicycle service called Sevici with bike stands all over the city which is handy if you want to move a bit faster than a walking pace.

What is the food like?

Tapas is the big draw for tourists, with tapas bars dotted around the city. Tapas can be anything from paella to Spanish omelette. The only downside with tapas is that one serving might fill a supermodel, but it will only be a pebble in the belly of an energy-sapped tourist. You can afford to sample as much tapas at a time as possible as it is extraordinarily cheap.
On the other hand, churros would probably provide a supermodel with enough sustenance for months. Churros are fried pastry-based snacks that are often dipped in hot chocolate.

What is the nightlife like?

The nightlife is pretty much dusk till dawn. There are many districts of the city such as Alfalfa and the Alameda that are specifically dedicated to nightlife, with hundreds of bars. Calle Betis on the south bank of the Guadalquivir River is a riverside street full of bars and nightclubs.
As well as Irish bars such as Flaherty’s and Merchant’s, there is Fundicion, a bar near Calle Betis where tourists and locals can take part in beer pong competitions. Very little beer pong practice is necessary as the opposition tends to be teams of Americans who haven’t reached US legal drinking age.
The botellón is a popular pastime where young Spaniards go drinking en masse in the great outdoors. In Seville, there are areas alongside the river which are popular spots for a botellón. The police don’t seem to mind, which is an added bonus.
The best nightclubs in Seville are Catedral in the Alfalfa area and a hidden gem called Obbio which spews out indie rock hits into the small hours.
Unlike Ireland, where you’re turfed out of clubs before 3am, in Seville it is customary to walk past people going to work while returning home from a night out!

Why should I go?

Seville is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain with its mix of Moorish and Latin architecture. Seville was under Arab domination for 800 years until the 15th century. It is culturally rich with a long history. The people that make up Spain’s fourth largest city are also very friendly.

What are the touristy things to do?

Attention all vegetarians and animal lovers, look away now: Bullfighting is a tradition in Seville like other parts of Spain. Seville’s main bull ring La Maestranza is located in the centre near the river and is a must-see.
There are many great tourist landmarks, but the top five to see are: The 600-year-old Gothic Cathedral of Seville, which is the third-largest church in the world. You can get a full view of the city from its iconic 105-metre high tower, La Giralda.
The Alacazar, a former Moorish palace, stands next door to the cathedral. With its stunning architecture and vast gardens, it's well worth your while spending a few hours exploring it.
Standing guard over the river there is the striking Toro de Oro (Golden Tower) built by the Moors to protect the city. Many a botellón takes place under its shadow on the weekends.
The Baroque-style Tobacco Factory which houses the Humanities faculty of the University of Seville is also a must-see.
La Plaza de España, built in 1929, is one of the most scenic landmarks in Seville, located within the Maria Luisa Park.

Anything else?

The neighbourhood of Triana on the south bank of the city is well worth a visit. One of the cultural centres of the city, Triana also has a rich tradition of flamenco.
Speaking of flamenco, La Carboneria is Seville’s best flamenco bar, located on the narrow maze of streets of Seville’s former Jewish district, with performances free to the public.

Anything to avoid?

Going outdoors at the height of summer isn’t recommended. Temperatures can hit 40 to 50 degrees celsius in June and July.

What should I bring home?

At the very least, a tan.

When should I go?

If you can’t handle the scorching heat of summer, spring and autumn are the best times of year to visit Seville. March and April are particularly enticing as the legendary Semana Santa processions take place every Easter and the drink-fest otherwise known as the Feria de Abril is in full flow.

What’s my challenge?

If you’re after a “challenge”, make a splash at the glorious waterpark Isla Magica.

What’s the currency?

Like us, the Spanish might be regretting that they dropped the peseta like a hot potato to switch to the euro.

Something to remember?

Traditionally, most shops close for a couple of hours in the middle of the day as locals disappear for a siesta. If you have any business to take care of, don’t schedule it for the middle of the day.