12 Step Planet: Lucca

How do I get there?
Your best bet is to fly to either Florence (if you’re feeling flush that is – fares aren’t cheap) or for a low-budget alternative Pisa, and get the train to Lucca. Both Ryanair and Aer Lingus offer regular flights to both cities, and Italy’s cheap and efficient train service will get you to Lucca within the hour from either. Schedules and ticket prices are available from www.trenitalia.it.
 
When should I go?
If it’s sunshine’s you’re after, aim for July or August, as summer temperatures usually soar into the early thirties. Or, if you’re more acclimatised to our ‘charming’ Irish weather, late September or October might suit better. It's hot but not overbearingly so. The region gets a fair bit of rain, though, so remember to pack waterproofs and a brolly.
 
What are the touristy things to do?
Get on yer bike! Lucca is divided in two –its centre, the old city, is completely surrounded by foreboding 12m high walls, which date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Cars are banned within the walls, so cycling is the ideal way to get around. There’s a pathway running the whole circumference of the walls too (that’s about 4km), which is perfect for a stroll or cycle, and it offers a fantastic view of the old city.
Anything else?
The medieval centre of the city is definitely worth a visit. Its main street, Via Fillungo, is dotted with charming boutiques, cafes and restaurants. The buildings in the old city are absolutely beautiful, with sweeping Gothic and Romanesque architecture around every corner, some dating back as far as the 1100s.

What about eating?
Lucca is blessed with an array of delicious restaruants and cafes. Several pit-stops are advised, either for a cappuccino and a pastry, or a sneaky glass of Tuscan wine (all in the name of research of course!) Luccan cuisine is classically Italian, with rich traditional pasta dishes on offer in most eateries. Must-tries include papa al pomodoro(bread-thickened tomato soup), tortelli lucchese (savoury meat stuffed pasta), baccalà (salt cod), and for dessert buccellato (sweet raisin bread).
 
What should I avoid?
Being killed on the roads! Though cars are generally banned within the walls, some residents have permits, and drivers tend to zip quite speedily along the city’s narrow, winding roads. Also, they don’t seem to take too kindly to cyclists. Or maybe that’s just Irish cyclists on the wrong side of the road! I blame the wine...
Where can I stay?
Both the old and new parts of the city have plenty of accommodation, although it’s definitely worth spending a night within the walls for that magical fairytale feeling. If funds are tight and hostels are your bag, there are plenty of those too.
 
How much to get tanked?
As is the case with most European cities, booze is generally cheaper than here. Supermarkets and off-licenses offer delicious local Tuscan wines from only a few euro. A pint, or glass of wine/prosecco will cost in or around €3 or €4.

What should I bring home?
Some of that local olive oil. Once you go Tuscan, you’ll never go back!
 
Why should I go?
Lucca is a beautiful and picturesque old city that’s definitely worth visiting. Though it’s often overlooked in favour of the more bustling Florence, it’s got plenty to offer in terms of charm, architecture, food and shopping, and unless you go at the very height of the summer it's not overrun with tourists,
 
Why should I not go?
It’s a small city. You’ll pretty much see everything within a couple of days, so it’s not recommended for a long holiday. Lucca also has a very right-wing, Northern League-dominated council who are trying to ban foreign restaurants in the city, which might make it a no-go area for those of a rather less rascist bent!

What’s my challenge?
To take it all in! There are stunning cathedrals, each recounting a different part of Lucca’s rich history, hundreds of winding streets with an endless array of antique shops and boutiques, cafés, museums (check out Casa di Puccini – an homage to the Lucca-born Madame Butterfly composer) and of course, the stunning walls enclosing the city. But, with a couple of days and a bike at your disposal, you’ll really get to appreciate this beautiful and romantic city.
Maeve Heslin