12 Step Planet: Cologne

Where exactly is it?
Cologne is in the west of Germany in the Rhineland. With over a million inhabitants it is the country’s fourth-largest city. From Cologne it’s only a short distance to the Dutch and Belgian borders.
How do I get there?
Air France and KLM fly from Dublin, Cork, Galway, Shannon and Belfast, with stops in Paris or London. Since flying is the best way to visit Cologne, you can also pick an Aer Lingus direct flight from Dublin to Duesseldorf, about an hour from Cologne.
What language do they speak?
German, but the locals used to speak a dialect called Koelsch. Don’t worry. Most of the younger people have a high standard of English and will help you gladly.
What’s the local beer like?
Cologne has its own beer, the famous Koelsch. It’s a clear brew with a bright straw-yellow hue. It tastes less bitter than other German beers. There are some 28 different varieties of Koelsch and most natives will drink nothing else.
Other drinks?
German Schnapps is popular especially during Karneval season. It’s available in various flavours such as plum, apple, pear and cherry or as a Kraeuterlikoer (the most famous is probably Jaegermeister). Be warned – it’s very strong!
What’s the transport like?
Like most German cities, Cologne is very cycle-friendly. It also boasts a vast public transport system, including underground, bus and urban rail.
What’s the food like?
If you want to try regional Koelsch food, brace yourself for solid and hearty meals. Sauerbraten (marinated beef) with Knoedel and Rotkraut (dumplings and red cabbage), and a dish called Koelsch Kaviar (black pudding with onions) are the most famous. If that sounds too hardcore, fret not, Cologne also offers you a wide range of international food!
The city is furthermore known for its takeaways, especially the German Currywurst (red or white sausage with a curry sauce) and Pommes rot–weiss (chips with ketchup and mayonnaise). After a long day full of sightseeing and shopping, there’s nothing better than having a Currywurst and a Koelsch at one of the takeaways on the Rhine bank, accompanied by a beautiful view over the river and the city skyline.
What is the nightlife like?
Cologne is famous for its nightlife. The city has the most bars per capita in Germany! The districts around Hohenzollernring, Friesenviertel and Belgisches Viertel are famous for their hostelries. The famous gay scene is located in the old part of the city and around Rudolfplatz.
Why should I go?
Cologne is one of Germany’s largest, oldest and most beautiful cities. Over 2,000 years old, it’s a real cultural hot spot. Remains from the Celtic, Germanic and Roman era can be seen all over the city. After World War II, over 90% of the city was destroyed. Today the centre is a mix of old and new, lending Cologne a unique atmosphere. It’s also said to be one of Germany’s most laid-back and relaxed cities.
What are the touristy things to do?
A visit to Cologne Cathedral, which dominates the city is essential. Started in 1248 and finished in 1880, the Gothic church is probably the most impressive attraction in the city. In 1996 it was designated a World Heritage site. The cathedral houses the Shrine of the Three Kings, which is supposed to contain the relics of the Three Magi. Another touristy highlight, overlooking the river, is the Chocolate Museum. Recommended for those with a sweet tooth!
Anything else?
If you like shopping, you’ll love Cologne. The Hohe Strasse and Schildergasse are home to some of the city’s smartest retailers. If you’re of a more alternative persuasion, check out the vintage stores in the Belgisches Viertel.
Anything to avoid?
If you should happen to go to Dusseldorf for a day trip, do not order a Koelsch there! There’s a love-hate-relationship between the two cities, so it’s better to order the local beer called Alt. And, of course, when you’re back in Cologne, stay with Koelsch.
What should I bring home?
Believe it or not, Eau de Cologne really is named after Cologne. First produced in 1709, the world-famous fragrance is still a moneyspinner.
When should I go?
Cologne Carnival starts at 11 minutes past 11 on the 11th of November. Between Fat Thursday and Ash Wednesday, meanwhile, people throw masked balls. Don’t forget your fancy-dress! And of course at Christmas there’s the famous yuletide market.
What’s my challenge?
Finding your favourite variety of Koelsch!
What’s the currency?
The Euro, so you won’t have to change your money.
Something to remember?
It’s not just a lazy racial stereotype – Germans are famously fastidious about time. When a bus or train is due to leave at 10am it definitely will!