Santa Monica...You’re Not That Far

Thanks to the ever-weakening dollar, living it up for two weeks in glitzy but laid-back Santa Monica, California is a lot more affordable than it used to be! A coastal city about 10 miles west of downtown Los Angeles, Santa Monica is close to everywhere you’ve heard about in the area (Malibu, Universal Studios, Hollywood, Rodeo Drive and so on) and is just 55 miles from Disneyland. It’s self-contained and has sun, sand, shops and restaurants all within walking distance. It also has a neighbourhood vibe that makes it a lovely place to hang out in. And it’s a good base from which to see LA, if you can afford to hire a car.

Getting to Santa Monica is a breeze. Aer Lingus has a non-stop flight, almost every day of the week. A cab from LAX airport to Santa Monica is about $30 (e20), or you can get a shuttle/shared van for about $20 (e13). You can also get a bus for $1.25, but it’s a bit of a rigmarole if you’re jet-lagged and tired. With more than two people, it’s worth it to get a cab.
On the subject of public transport, while the locals rarely take the bus, the service is actually really good and reliable. If you want to stay in Santa Monica but venture further afield to Hollywood, Rodeo Drive, LA County Museum of Art etc without renting a car, MTA.NET gives you the low down. All you have to do is put in where you are, and where you want to go, and it’ll give you step by step instructions on which bus(es) to take. It might seem daunting, but in practice it works.
At the epicenter of Santa Monica is The Third Street Promenade. It’s like Grafton Street, a pedestrian street speckled with street performers, designer stores and restaurants. It’s quite “touristy”, but it’s totally worth a visit. If you’re short on cash, one of the best deals on the promenade for booze and food is Café Crepe, on Third and Broadway. A pint will cost you $3, which is a STEAL compared to other establishments. The Promenade also has a food court if you want good food at a reasonable price.
If you’d prefer to avoid tourists, check out Montana Avenue between 10th and 15th Street for boutique restaurants. It’s about a mile away from the Promenade and is a local favourite. A main course at a mid-priced restaurant is about $15 (or about e9.50), and the average cost of a pint is about $5.50 (or about e3.50). If you go to a restaurant with waiter service you MUST tip between 15 and 20%. It’s the custom. Also, bartenders at regular pubs expect a tip of about $1 per drink.
If some fairground action appeals, the Santa Monica Pier has a ferris wheel, a small roller-coaster and the usual knick-knacks. It’s a bit too Blackpool-esque for my liking, but it doesn’t require a huge investment of time to check it out.
Santa Monica beach is completely sandy and beautiful and usually not too crowded (especially the further north you go from the pier). One of my favourite things to do at the beach is to rent a bike and ride (or roller blade) up to Venice Beach, which is less than 1.5 miles away.
Venice Beach and its boardwalk are very bohemian, with loads of outdoor merchants, café and bars. It’s usually packed in the summer, but it’s definitely worth doing. While you’re there, Chaya in Venice is a wonderful high-end restaurant for sushi.
A word of warning for sun worshippers: Santa Monica can get hit by fog (the “marine-layer”, as the locals call it). It usually burns off during the day, but if all you want is a suntan, you may need to head inland.
On the far side of Santa Monica (nearer Venice Beach) is Main Street. Main Street has a huge selection of bars, cafés and restaurants, including a great upmarket Chinese, Chinois (highly recommended by the Editor himself!). The bars on Main Street generally stay open later than those nearer the Promenade (which close around 11.30). So if you’re up for a late night, it’s the best spot.
There’s a lot of music in LA but big gigs aside, The Troubadour on Santa Monica Boulevard is well worth checking out, as a good, eclectic venue (easily accessible by bus from Santa Monica). The Hotel Cafe is another fantastic venue. It’s neither a hotel, nor a cafe, but they have THE best singer/songwriter bookings in town. It’s in the slightly seedier side of Hollywood, so you’re best driving.
As for attractions, Universal Studios is a deffo must see. The Back To The Future ride is my favourite, but allow a bit of time to have a good look around: it’s a place where you get a real insight into the movie making business while also having lots of fun.
In terms of where to stay, Santa Monica has a hostel and a variety of hotels. Useful sites for hotel options are Hotels.com and Orbitz.com, but you may need an American credit card to hold a room.
On the downside, one of the few sad things about Santa Monica is its homeless population. There are a lot of people living on the streets, which can come as a surprise to a newcomer familiar only with the glitzy image of LA.
Finally, if you’re renting a car, it’s well worth considering a 2 day trip to Las Vegas. It’s about a four and a half hour drive away (traffic permitting). It’s one of my favourite places to go and you can get really great deals on hotels, especially if you travel during the week.