New England Dreaming

If there was ever an American city steeped in culture and history it’s Boston. From the brownstones of the South End and Back Bay to the gas-lit alleys of Beacon Hill to streetwise Dorchester, it has Victorian-era charm and cobblestone streets to rival any European city and the vivacity and buzz of a cosmopolitan Yankee Capital. Boston boasts a history of revolutionary radicalism, from Paul Revere to legalized gay marriage, which still persists beneath a veneer of Puritanical reserve. It’s a jewel in the crown of New England’s stunning coastline and as a Bostonian speaking for all Bostonians, it’s one pretty fabulous and refreshingly approachable little American city.

Much of Boston’s city center is pedestrianised and easily walkable but if you don’t feel like putting in the footwork, America’s first subway, the ‘T’, is easy to use and covers most anywhere you need to go. Boston’s “Emerald Necklace” of parks provide breathing space and defining vistas of the city so take a stroll through Boston Common and the Public Gardens, watch the swan boats, catch a ball game, and people watch. There is also a ‘Concerts on The Common’ music series during the summer as well as the majestic July 4 classical concert and fireworks on the Esplanade every year. Keep your eyes open for listings and take a champagne picnic, it’s magic.
Old and new contrast harmoniously in this 400-year-old city. For casual food, a bit of history, and upmarket shopping check out bustling Quincy Market (Faneuil Hall); based on London’s Covent Garden it has a bevy of shops, boutiques, food stalls, and loads of little Boston-themed knick-knacks you can take home for a memorial keepsake (you know, the kind you’d wear at home but never where you actually bought it).
If it’s fashion you’re after and you’ve got plenty of cash to spend (or just a hankering for a bit of window shopping), Boylston St. is good with Lord and Taylor and Copley Mall, but Newbury Street is one of the ritziest drags in town. Everything from FAO Schwartz to Burbury is on offer and cafés are plentiful and chic. But the privilege carries the price tag so be prepared. Even though Filene’s Basement may now be defunct, Macy’s still offers good bargains if you catch the sales. I’ve bought many a dress and gown at the Thanksgiving Weekend Sales and I can guarantee you’ll never have to worry about anyone wearing the same dress. The Friday after Thanksgiving (the holiday is always the third Thursday every November) is traditionally known as Black Friday due to the phenomenal amount of shoppers that swarm to the malls to do their Christmas shopping and snap up bargains. So if bargain hunting is your buzz, Boston in November may just be your fix.
One thing that you’ll find a delight is the value you’ll get eating out. Boston is cheap compared to Irish prices, even at the best restaurants, and the sheer selection and quality of restaurants is staggering. From burrito joints to trendy bistros, the quality of food is world class. Hammersley’s Bistro, one of my faves, and Aujourd’hui (big bucks in Four Seasons Hotel) are just a sample of Boston’s Top 10, while local staples like Legal Seafoods has fresh seafood with an imaginative twist.
Places like the Union Oyster House and Durgen Park down near Quincy Market are traditional, casual New England fare. Yes, they’re a little touristy but they also offer a good buzz. Just have a google for Boston restaurants and dive in.
One of my favorite things to do anytime of year is hang out in the North End, Boston’s bastion of Italian culture. Mama Maria’s (I’m not biased because of the name, no.) is a good bet for proper Italian food but other good bets are Maurizio’s, Pomodoro’s, and countless pizza joints. I used to stop in to Pete’s Pizza in Haymarket for a slice or two after a hard days veggie and sundry shop at the fabulous Italian street market that happens there every Saturday. Fantastic value but keep an eye on where the vendors take your veg from or else you might arrive home with a few overly ripe tomatoes in your bag. God bless the Italians. Don’t forget to stop in for an espresso and a dolce (sweet) at Mike’s Pastry, Bova, or Café Roma, where the scenery is fabulous – lots of gorgeous Italians to ogle. My favorite kind of window shopping.
No matter what you do, take your time: Walk the historic ‘Freedom Trail’, one of the best ways to get a taste of Boston’s historical past while hitting plenty of the city’s neighborhoods and sights. Visit any of the museums (there’s something for everyone), take an elevator to the top of the Prudential Building for a panoramic view, take a night-time Harbor Cruise, or just swan around on a summer’s evening and drink in the ambiance.