Let's talk about wex, baby

oasting one of Ireland’s richest cultural traditions, some of its most breathtaking beaches and a richly deserved reputation for summer sunshine, Wexford takes your breath away time after time. For decades, it has punched above its weight, producing world-class novelists such as John Banville, Peter Murphy and Colm Toibin, hosting one of the major opera festivals on the international calendar and offering some of Ireland’s best dining. Plus, there’s stunning scenery, succulent strawberries, a historical legacy stretching back to the 1798 Rising and a proud sporting tradition – the Model County has produced such titans as legendary hurler Nicky Rackard, rugby international Gordon D’Arcy and soccer star Kevin Doyle.

Your humble correspondent moved to Wexford 16 years ago, drawn by the sandy beaches and impressive landscapes, to say nothing of the abundance of cafes, pubs, restaurants and bookshops. In addition, I knew I wanted to experience one of Ireland’s richest cultural scenes, which
includes rock, opera, art exhibitions and literature.
A high point of the region’s arts calendar is Wexford Opera Festival, which now takes place in a spanking new building comprising two well-appointed performance spaces, a bar and a restaurant with a panoramic view out across the county town and the Slaney towards Raven Point. Of real international standing, the event draws a global audience, many of whom fall in love with the county and return again and again.

This year is the 60th anniversary of the festival. Running from October 21 to November 21, the marquee attractions will be revivals of La Cour de Celimene, Maria and Gianni di Parigi.
Off the beaten track, meanwhile, the programme extends to three short works at White’s Hotel, lunchtime recitals, a gala concert, a choral concert in Rowe Street Church, pre-opera talks and the Dr Tom Walsh lecture, in honour of one of the festival’s founding fathers.
Non-opera attractions over the month include a concert by local songwriter Pierce Turner, debuting his ‘very small orchestra’ at Greenacres on October 29. The same venue hosts regular art exhibitions, overseen by curator James O’Connor.
Outside of the yearly festival, the Opera House has put on performances by everyone from Swell Season to Mary Black to Jedward and Tommy Tiernan. Recently reunited local heroes Cry Before Dawn played a brace of sold-out shows there, with The Man Whom and Flying Columns supporting. Meanwhile percussionist extraordinaire Nicky Bailey and his Extreme Rhythm percussion ensemble turned in a spectacular show a few months ago (an achievement rendered even sweeter by the fact it took place only a door or two from where he was born and raised). More information is available at wexfordoperahouse.ie, wexfordopera.com and
wexfordfringe.ie

If you do happen to be in Wexford Town for the Opera Festival, rest assured there is no lack of culinary attractions. Locals swear by the Stable Diet cafe at the Talbot Hotel end of Main Street. Under manager Niamh English and her cheery staff it’s become one of the most popular coffee and chat venues in the county. At the other end of Main Street is La Dolce Vita owned by the charming Roberto Pons. He has garnered rave reviews from all and sundry. Lunch hour customers are advised to get there early as queues are not exactly unheard of. Located in between is D’Lush at Wexford Arts Centre. It offers a tempting menu by Linda Larkin who has a Degree in Culinary Arts and uses local organic produce where possible. The Talbot Hotel provides an excellent bar and carvery lunch whilst Centenary Stores is worth checking out for food and drink. Meanwhile, fans of Indian food should proceed to Spice in Monck Street close to Trapattoni’s chip shop. Rest assured, you won’t go hungry in Wexford!
Festival-goers will also be looking forward to David Daly’s annual exhibition at The Pumphouse (beside the bird sanctuary in Ardcavan). Daly has attracted a fast-growing band of admirers, struck by his uncannily life-like paintings of birds and
other wildlife.

Under the stewardship of Elizabeth Whyte, the Wexford Arts Centre has become an essential part of the cultural landscape of the south-east. It features a wide variety of quality art exhibitions, plays, workshops and musicians. Artists who have performed there include Ryan Sheridan, Fionn Regan and Simple Minds’ Jim Kerr under his Lostboy alias. A jewel in the crown, surely, is the Cáca Milis cabaret run by Helena Mulkerns (no mean singer herself). In fact, you never know who is going to pop in. Highlights have included Welsh novelist Glen Peters reading from his work, belly dancers, poets, films and local faves the Keane Sisters.
Despite the recession, the future of live music in Wexford is extraordinarily bright. A new generation of young concert promoters, among them Barry Ennis and Feargal Hyne, have brought international-calibre artists to the county. Plus, there is the invaluable Wexlive email distributed by Senan O’Reilly.
In the past few years alone, Wexford has produced such talents as Clive Barnes and Wallis Bird. Out in Tagoat, meanwhile, lives the prolific Eleanor McEvoy, who named one of her albums Yola after a Middle-English dialect peculiar to the vicinity. Expect a new album from her by the autumn.

Another exciting talent is the aforementioned The Man Who, aka songwriter Ian Doyle. His debut album earned a thumbs-up in Hot Press and he broadened his audience considerably via his appearance on Other Voices. Also in Hot Press, Alan Byrne was a First Cuts pick of the fortnight. He is, moreover. a major force behind the Red Chair songwriter club at the Bean and Berry cafe.
Mentored by Pierce Turner, the Darling Sins are another Wexford act worth keeping an eye on. Singer Leni Morrison is a real talent. Turner is taking the band to London for gigs and hopefully to capitalize on record company interest already generated by the band.
A passionate proselytizer for Wexford music, Turner singles out The Sky and The Ground pub run by Johnny Barron as a key part of the local music scene. “Johnny loves music,” he says. “I was honoured when he named the bar after one of my songs and asked me to perform the official opening back in 1996.”
The Sky and The Ground also features in the song ‘Sing Till There’s No Songs Left’ by The Man Whom, which was inspired by a momentous night of music and carousing at the venue. Songs by Dan Comerford and Paul Creane namecheck the pub, too.

Barron says: “I love music. Over the years we’ve had some of the best acts here, from international performers Josh Ritter and Natty Wailer to Villagers, James Vincent McMorrow, Paul Brennan from Clannad, Liam Ó Maonlaí, O Emperor and Maria Doyle Kennedy.”
The Sky and The Ground holds regular Sunday sessions. Plus there’s trad music every Monday. Tuesdays are reserved for original songwriting.
“Our beer garden is a popular place for gigs during the summer,” says Barron. “We’re also in the process of adding on a separate part, which will be for littletop.tv – a similar venture to balcony.tv. We encourage visual artists to show their works in the beer garden too.”
Vine restaurant, run by the affable Dave Kavanagh, is a favourite of this scribbler. It also doubles as a venue. The other week it hosted the launch of the debut release by The River Fane, whose line-up includes local guitarist Derren Dempsey, late of Turn.

Trish Bird, sister of Wallis, has been building up Chaz Bar as a fine venue for rock aficionados. It has put on gigs by Preacher’s Son and Nicola Keane. And in Carrick-On-Bannow brothers Phil and John Murphy, no mean musicians themselves, have turned Colfers into a mecca for all types of acoustic-based playing.
Getting to Wexford has never been easier, thanks to the Gorey by-pass and a direct bus link to Dublin Airport. This makes Enniscorthy the perfect place for a break or stop-over. The town’s 4-star Riverside Park Hotel and Leisure Club is located alongside the River Slaney, close to the bustling town centre. It’s an excellent base for anyone wishing to explore the South-East. Furthermore, it has become a highly popular venue for weddings and conferences, with a variety of suites to meet specific needs for business and/or entertaining. And there are several golf clubs within five minutes’ journey. Special midweek and weekend golf packages are available at riversideparkhotel.com, as are the hotels’
midweek specials.

The complex houses the much-admired Alamo restaurant, together with sauna, steam room, gym, jacuzzi and indoor heated swimming pool. Be warned, however – check into the Riverside Park Hotel and there’s a serious risk you might not want to leave!
Curracloe Charity Funday is worth attending too. This year, the line-up welcomes Innuendo, Borderline, Shebeen, Na Buachailli, j.m.a, Artful Renegade, the Sheila Grace School of Dance and Jive Sensation. The event is in aid of Irish Cancer Society and takes place at Curracloe Hotel July 31. Kick-off is 12 noon. Children’s activities include face painting, balloon modeling, a muppet show and more. A five-mile walk will coincide with the event, leaving the hotel at midday. Sponsorship cards are available from Shane on 087 752 5669.
Yoga fans in Wexford have fallen hard for nearby Curracloe House, which offers regular classes by Christine Fiske, Rachel Lovegrove and Mary Duane. This warm and welcoming residence overlooks the stunning beach where Spielberg shot the D-Day landing in Saving Private Ryan, and has some wonderful forest walks.
In Wexford town, meanwhile, Vera Whelan is one of the most experienced yoga teachers to be found. The Only Natural shop run by Ger Colfer provides a wide range of suitably healthy foods and alternative products to cater for a growing market, as does Rainbow Wholefoods owned by John Finnegan.

An open-air Courtyard Concert featuring the Three Irish Tenors and the Wexford Male Voice Choir will take place at the Castle Courtyard, Our Lady’s Island, near Carne, September 10 at 8 pm. This concert has been designed to bring people in the community closer together by sharing in a musical experience in the unique location of Our Lady’s Island. The courtyard is to the rear of a Norman castle. Tickets are €25. Further info at ourladysisland.ie
The annual excitement surrounding the Tall Ships race has focused public attention on all things maritime. No surprise, then, that Hook Lighthouse at Fethard-On-Sea is an increasingly popular destination for visitors. The medieval tower at Hook has served sailors and shipping for eight centuries and is the oldest intact operational lighthouse in the world. The 13th century Norman structure was built by the Earl of Pembroke. Since it became fully automated in 1996, no longer needing resident lighthouse keepers, it’s been open to the public.
The Visitor Centre at Hook is one of the premier attractions in the south east. There are guided tours of the lighthouse tower all year round, plus a gift shop, a first class café with free wi-fi, art classes and picnic areas. It’s also an ideal spot from which to watch seals, dolphins and whales! And there’s music too. Maria Doyle Kennedy plays a ‘Lighthouse Session’ August 18.

Meanwhile Vintage Day on Sunday August 28 will – surprise, surprise – celebrate all things vintage. There will be afternoon tea and music on the lawn from noon, plus games such as croquet, giant chess, dominos, bowls, hoopla and frisbee. Vintage cars will be displayed, you can have your hair done in a vintage style, and there will be complimentary Pimm’s cocktails for those who dress in a vintage style from any era. Check hookheritage.ie for
more details.
There’s renewed interest in crafts all over the county. The Irish Agricultural Museum, located in the lush environs of Johnstown Castle near Piercestown, is doing its bit. The ‘Crafts at the Castle’ initiative takes place on Sunday July 31 from 11am to 4pm. Visitors can enjoy a variety of local crafts and produce, as over 20 traders from the vicinity showcase their talents with vintage clothing, tasty fruit ‘n’ veg, quality meats, colourful cushions, bespoke bird feeders, unique jewellery and lots more.

The stalls are located in the museum courtyard. The Peacock Tea Room will serve up a seductive selection of weet and savoury snacks. There’s also live music. And for the month of August, they’ve introduced horse and carriage rides around the sumptuous gardens.
The Thomas Moore Tavern on Cornmarket is Wexford’s oldest pub. It is named after the famous Irish poet and songwriter (whose parents once actually lived here). Recently reopened and impressively renovated, the Thomas Moore is ideal for a coffee and chat, a casual jar, a snack or full-blown meal (in The Spires restaurant upstairs). It also has an outdoor terrace and a piano bar.
There’s a ballad session every Tuesday. On Thursdays there’s an acoustic session with Nick Murphy. And there is jazz every Sunday. See thomasmooretavern.com for more details.

A trip to the wind farm at Carnsore is the perfect excuse for stopovers at pleasant pubs and cafes en route. The Mill Bar in Tacumshane, run by noted DJ Gerry Meyler and his wife Teresa, is a cosy boozer and restaurant with excellent drinking space outside beside an old windmill.
It’s not far from where Katherine Carroll produces her award-winning range of Stable Diet snacks which were recently featured on RTE’s Nationwide. On your way to Kelly’s Hotel in Rosslare or to the Europort you can rest up at Karoo cafe and farm shop in Killinick and partake of its attractive menu of coffees, teas, snacks and healthy lunches. Located next door, Ye Olde Coopers Inn is as popular with tourists as with locals.
Wexford county is admirably served by its newspapers, the Wexford People and the Wexford Echo. The editor of the Echo, Tom Mooney, has received much acclaim for his recent book, All The Bishop’s Men.
The Wexford Free Press has an impish attitude and is an important element of the publishing landscape. More than that, it is part of a wider literary scene which includes writers of the calibre of John Banville (aka Benjamin Black), Colm Toibin, Eoin Colfer and Peter Murphy.

Not for the first time, British audiences, meanwhile, are marvelling at the story-telling power of playwright Billy Roche, whose Lay Me Down Softly is currently wowing London audiences.
Wexford writer Tony O’Brien, for his part, impressed many with his fine work Going Green: The Irish Guide to Living a Greener Life. And publisher and editor Michael Freeman looks like scoring bigtime with Jack by Blaise Brosnan, a practical handbook that encourages the reader to master the connections between business and life.

Of course, it helps that there are excellent book shops such as The Book Centre and Byrnes. There, you will find knowledgeable and helpful staff prepared to go the extra yard for customers. South East Radio also plays a central role in the community too. Leading presenters Alan Corcoran, Stephen Dee and Alan Ennis put their local knowledge to excellent use, keeping listeners informed and enthralled. Aimed at a younger audience Beat fm, for its part, focuses on contemporary pop and has a lively delivery style.