12 Step Planet: Madrid

How do I get there?
Madrid is a major European capital and there are daily flights from Dublin. You can choose from Aer Lingus, Air France, British Airways and Iberia Airways depending on the day. Prices can be as low as €8 or €9. Get surfing!

When should I go?
The summer months are usually sweltering, with temperatures up to and over 40ºC. But in winter minimum temperatures often fall below freezing. As Madrid is one of the highest capitals in Europe, the humidity is less of a problem than in other Spanish cities such as Cordoba.
What are the touristy things to do?
The Reina Sofia museum houses Picasso’s anti-war painting Guernica, arguably among the most controversial items of visual art on the planet. The nearby Prado Muesum is equally essential, with a stunning selection of works by El Greco, Velazquez, Goya, Rubens, Hieronymus Bosch and others.

Anything else?
Even if you have no interest in architecture, it’s impossible to walk around the streets of Madrid without marvelling at the impressive buildings, monuments and statues. The Palacio de Comunicaciones is one worth seeking out. A blend of Viennese Art Nouveau and local influences, it houses the main post office.

What about eating?
Some food experts argue Madrid has no true cuisine of its own. That said, it certainly offers a range of dishes from all over the country. One to watch out for is Cocido Madrileño. It’s a stew made from chickpeas with vegetables (such as cabbage, celery, carrots, turnips and potatoes) and chicken, beef and pork. Callos is another classic Madrid dish and is well worth investigating if you don’t mind the fact that its name means “tripe”.

What should I avoid?
The seediness of the Sol, Madrid’s red light district, spills over into parts of Gran Via which is otherwise a very pleasant, bustling street. Sol can be a risky area at night, or even on your own during daylight, especially for lone women.

Where can I stay?
Madrid is a large, sprawling town. So it’s important to stay somewhere convenient. The Metro is based on the London model, so getting around is easy if you are close to a station. The Hotel Atlantico on Gran Via is remarkably good value for a hotel on a main street in a major capital. It has an attractive rooftop terrace and bar with great views. It’s located near the Metro station. Getting there from the airport is easy and cheap.

How much to get tanked?
Most drinks, especially shorts like brandy and Baileys, are cheaper than in Ireland. Lagers and beers are rarely more expensive than in Dublin, even in hotels. For real value try some of the local wines, which, apart from their fruity taste, seem to be hangover free. Watch out for wines from the Ribera del Duero region, especially the bodegas Vega Sicilia and Penafiel. And don’t forget that in the tapas bars there’s some great food to soak up the liquids.

What should I bring home?
Some CDs of real flamenco music played by such bona fide local musicians as Radio Tarifa. They blend flamenco with Arabic and Middle Eastern styles. Although they’re from the south, their CDs evoke some of the flavour and heat of Madrid. You won’t hear as much Spanish music on the streets and cafes as you’d expect, and some of the flamenco shows are very ‘touristy’.

Why should I go?
Spain was historically a jumble of Christian, Jewish and Moorish cultures – and this mix still informs the city today.

Why should I not go?
Generally speaking, Madrileños are not as fluent in English as Spaniards in other cities. If you can’t be bothered trying a few basic phrases in Spanish, you might be more at home with an Irish bar and beach holiday in Benidorm.