12 Step Planet: Krakow

How do I get there?
Ryanair flies Dublin to Krakow every day of the week from e24.99 each way plus tax, and Aer Lingus does the same from e30 each way. So if you’re clever, you could swing a trip for under a hundred. A handful of Ryanair flights also leave from Shannon airport. There are two regular municipal bus lines from John Paul II International Airport – the 292 to downtown Krakow, and the 208 to the central bus depot and main train station. A taxi to the centre of town should cost you no more than 80PLN/€20
When should I go?
God only knows. The Poles are not unlike us Irish in being blessed with schizophrenic weather. If you fancy a romantic snowy getaway by all means tackle the city in March (Krakow, like most European cities, looks gorgeous under a blanket of white). But July and August are probably your best bet for sightseeing. To avoid the masses, try mid-May to June or September to October. That’s when tourism is under way but not in full flow.
What are the touristy things to do?
Krakow is celebrated for its old world charm. At the southern tip of the old town, a castle and Gothic cathedral dominate Wawel Hill, the former home of the Polish royalty. A 15-minute walk south from Wawel brings you to Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter, once home to a rich culture that was all but destroyed by the Holocaust. The square is one of the largest medieval market places in Europe, making it the perfect place to sit and observe the locals.
Anything else?
Not exactly a day of fun on the farm but the death camps at Auschwitz and Birkenau are a must-see. Just 55 miles west of Krakow, they hold the graves of an estimated 1.1 million people killed as part of Hitler’s Final Solution and are hands down one of the most truly extraordinary places on earth.
Auschwitz is easily accessible by bus or rail. Trains leave for Oswiecim from the Krakow Glowney main rail station almost every hour and buses from right nearby every 30 minutes. A single train ticket costs about €4. Buses take twice as long but only cost about €1.60.
What about eating?
Living on pork, beet soups and cabbage stews and possibly the last people in the known universe to still make things in aspic (it’s like a meat jelly), the best thing about Polish food is that it’s never half as rank as it sounds or looks. In fact, it’s rather good. To get it on the super cheap, try the milk bars (bar mleczny). These canteen-style restaurants were invented by the communist authorities in the ‘60s as a means to offer cheap meals to workers. Take note: complete nut jobs dine at milk bars these days – this is dinner and a show.
What should I avoid?
Mentioning the war, the Catholic Church or anything that could possibly offend anyone. Poles are generally a friendly lot but don’t forget that Poland in essence is still a conservative country. LGBT issues in particular remain very controversial, with some Polish people desperately clinging onto a tradition of chivalry and strong gender roles. Oh and cocktails are disproportionately expensive. But that’s almost certainly nothing to do with the gay thing.
Where can I stay?
Being the trendy metropolis that it is, you’re spoilt for boutique hotels in Krakow. Students should have no trouble finding a dorm in a pretty decent hostel for a little over ten quid a night (see Recommended).
How much to get tanked?
Beer and wines generally come in at between €1 and €2 per drink, so not that much actually! We’re also partial to the pepper, plum and bison grass varieties of Polish vodka, which you can get on every street corner. Wodka (pronounced vood-kah for hilarity’s sake) is taken neat, in one gulp, or do dna (“to the bottom”). A chunk of herring in oil or a sip of water or juice, is taken after drinking to give some relief to the throat. Then the glasses are immediately refilled for the next drink. Do us proud, kids.