Hot Travel: Mexico City

Where exactly is it?
Distrito Federal, known by locals as D.F. and to the rest of the world as Mexico City, is tucked away amongst the towering plateaus of The Valley of Mexico also quite appropriately known as ‘The Basin’, or ‘The Valley of the Damned’. With a massive population of 21.2 million, it’s a condensed version of every single aspect of Mexican life and culture squeezed into 2,000 sq kms.
How do I get there?
With no direct flights from Ireland, you’ll take in at least two other major cities on the way - usually either Paris or London on this side of the Atlantic and anywhere from New York to Miami on the other, though American Airlines operate services that both connect in the US. The Benito Juarez airport is modern and navigable with its two terminals linked by a monorail. A taxi is the best and safest way to reach the nearby city centre, and can be booked and pre-paid for in the airport itself – recommended to avoid the often especial fee which drivers have been known to inflict on visitors.
What language do they speak?
Spain’s colonisation of Mexico in the 16th century guaranteed the dominance of Spanish as the official language. 6% of the population can still speak one of the country’s 60 indigenous languages, which makes for some very colourful – and unintelligible! – street slang.
What’s the currency?
The Mexican Peso (MXN$)
What’s the local beer like?
Mexico loves its beer! You’ll all no doubt be familiar with Sol and Corona, but it doesn’t end there. Like their US neighbours, there’s been a huge artisan beer explosion with a vast range of specialist shops, brewpubs and microbreweries, many of which offer free tours and tastings. Recommended tipples include Dos Equis lager, Negro Modela which is arguably the best dark beer in all of the Americas and one of the few Mexican lagers drunk sans lime, Pacifico.
Other drinks?
Best known on our side of the puddle for its ‘seemed-like-a-good-idea-at-the-time’ 2am shot appearance, Tequila has a more civilised and revered rep in its home country. The trick is to consume as the Mexicans do – with respect. Don’t choose anything that’s not labelled ‘100% Agave’, which won’t be too hard as Mexican law allows no other tequila to be branded as authentic. The city offers it to you everywhere and anywhere, from religious street-side ceremonies to breakfast. A stronger, smokier alternative is Mescal, which routinely comes with a worm at the bottom of the bottle. Locals say it tastes great and boosts the libido of lady and gentleman imbibers alike – they’re lying!
If you’re feeling particularly adventurous (and thirsty), a venture into some of the small saloons dotted around the city’s poorer outskirts will allow you to sample home-distilled liquors such as the radioactively green Garañona and the fruity, yet deceivingly potent Piñas.
If all else fails, don’t fret, Mexicans are partial to the odd nip of whisky. A wide selection is available surprisingly cheaply in all bars.
What’s the transport like?
Surprisingly efficient and easy, given the city’s colossal proportions and mammoth population. The subway system has swift and constant coverage of the metropolis area, and is far less crowded then one would anticipate. The Metrobus is a Luas-style tram network covering most of the areas you’re likely to want to visit, while the many buses and zippy little paseros microbuses ensure that no ground is left uncovered. Alternatively, the streets are scattered with taxis, which are decidedly cheaper than their Irish counterparts. Just be prepared for eccentric driving habits typical of Mexican motorists.
What’s the food like?
Tacos, tortas, tostadas, pambazos, fajitas, chicharrones, tlacoyos, gorditas... there’s literally no end to the choices available. The daily San Juan Market in the central historical region of the city, and Tuesday’s Condesa Market in Edificio Condesa are great places to sample native delicacies for mere pesos. Must-tries include chiles en nogada (meat-filled peppers drowned in walnut sauce); huevos rancheros (delicious fried egg, rice and corn tortilla combination) and arroz de pollo (classic oven-cooked chicken and rice dish).
What’s the nightlife like?
From the traditional humble cantina to an array of amazingly-designed clubs offering a wide mix of music from Latino to techno, the city certainly comes alive – and indeed stays alive – all through the night. And the night is long, with people generally tending to dine around 8 or 9 pm, an activity that’s leisurely and traditionally paired with beer or tequila. Pubs and clubs rarely come alive before 11pm. La Condesa is one of the best areas for bar-hopping; Salon Tenampa (salontenampa.com) on Plaza Garibald is the go-to place for authentic very late night mariachi; El Colmillo in the Juárez district is the city’s hottest club spinning acid jazz and techno in two rooms, and El Plaza Condesa (elplaza.mx) is the place to catch both touring overseas acts and local rock heroes like Cafe Tacvba, Molotov, The Plastics Revolution and Nortec Collective. The Spanish leanguage indierocks.mx is great for gig listings.
Note that while cantinas are a great place to experience true Mexican-style socialising, many of them are still men only domains where females will at best be given curious looks and, at worst, told gruffly to “get out!”
Why should I go?
With Mexico City, it’s not a question of ‘why?’ but ‘how many times?’ If not for the food experience alone, the most populous metropolitan city in the Western Hemisphere gives a glimpse into Mexican culture which can’t be found in the Americanised resorts of Cancun or Acapulco. The people are welcoming, helpful and extremely passionate.
What are the main tourist attractions?
The Zocalo’s Plaza de la Constitucion is one of the largest public squares in the world with the huge paved space centred around a towering Mexican flag. There’s a constant buzz of street events, festivals and parades and it’s a good spot to observe the Mayan people practicing their worshipping rituals; a truly fascinating and colourful display of dance and song in the native tongue. It’s also home to the magnificent Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the oldest Roman Catholic places of worship in the Americas. To the east of Zocalo is the Palacio National (mexicocity.gob.mx), which boasts a stunning set of Diego Rivera murals charting Mexico’s tempestuous history. The city is football crazy with any Liga Bancomer MX game (ligamx.net) involving América at the Azteca, Cruz Azul at Azul Stadium or UNAM at Olímpico Universitario worth taking in. Baseball (milb.com) is another national obsession, with La Liga Mexicana de Béisbol’s current top player a certain Luis Suaraz! The local glamour team is Diablos Rojos del México (diablos.com.mx) who play out towards the airport at Foro Sol.
Anything else?
Mexico City is literally sinking! The Mayans’ decision to build the city in the middle of a lake may have something to do with this, though their reasoning is quite fascinating and worth a Google (it involves a snake and an eagle). Uneven foundations coupled with the colossal weight of its buildings and inhabitants mean that the city has subsided 42-feet in the past 100 years. If the never-ending commotion of the city leaves you craving some Zen, La Marquesa is Mexico’s version of Central Park, complete with horses, quad-bikes, zip-lines and barbecues. visitmexico.com/en has a brilliant section on the capital.
Anything to avoid?
Almost half the population lives in poverty and this is evident no matter where you go. While aggressive street begging is not widely practiced, it’s important to avoid displaying signs of wealth while exploring the streets. As in any major city, it can attract unwanted attention, but in Mexico it’s also considered arrogant for a non-native to flash their bank balances. Leave the bling at home!
What should I bring home?
The city’s many open-air markets offer plenty of affordable gift ideas from food and ornaments to an array of distinctive Latino art. One of the most curious aspects of Mexican culture is their taste in confectioneries. Delicacies range from tamarind flavour lollipops and chili-gummies to peanut marzipan candy. Jewellery is also worth investing in; the nearby town of Taxco is famous for its mining and crafting of silver. Saturday morning marketplaces or tianguis sell an abundance of silver jewellery at extremely low prices, which can be bargained down ever further.
When should I go?
The city enjoys mild and pleasant weather nearly all year, with October to May the driest season. November 1 & 2 is the famous Día de Muertos where Mexicans remember and celebrate their dead, with banks and other working institutions closing. The Day of the Dead is ironically celebrated in an abundance of colour and festivities throughout the city with music, dancing and even more food on offer. A great place to visit are the canals of Xochimilco, often described as the Venice of Mexico. Float along the banks in rafts for as long as you like while taking in the exotic surroundings.
What’s my challenge?
Get active! Every Sunday morning, several large roads are closed off to traffic and priority is given to those participating in the Cicloton. The route ensures cyclists take in many of the must-see locations and landmarks at their own pace, while dodging the craziness that tends to consume the city’s roads.
Something to remember?
Por Favor, gracias, salut!