Hot Press' Guide to Galway

Read any guidebook and it will tell you Galway is Ireland’s ‘cultural heart’, which is basically just a fancy way of saying that the locals are fond of a good time. Indeed Galway has so many festivals and events all year around – including live music, comedy, arts, film or much, much more – it’s a wonder that Galwegians had enough time and energy left over to have the city crowned one of the “sexiest” in the world a few years back.

Among the cultural and social highlights are (take a deep breath): the Bulmers Galway Comedy Festival, the Galway Theatre Festival, the Galway Jazz Festival, the Galway Oyster Festival and the Galway Races. That’s before we even mention the music events – more of that later.
Galway is a popular weekend break destination for those not lucky enough to live in the City of Tribes. So if you are planning a break, where exactly should you go and what should you do? Ah ha! We’ve got the event highlights and Galway’s nightlife covered. Let’s begin!
There is a ridiculously good line up at this year’s Bulmers Galway Comedy Festival, which takes place from 22 to 28 October. Sean Lock, Omid Djalili, Stewart Lee, David O’Doherty, Andrew Maxwell, Maeve Higgins, The Nualas and Phill Jupitus are just a handful of the big names on the bill.
Now in its ninth year, the festival has grown to a whopping seven days of comedy and this year’s event includes plenty beyond stand-up. There’s also improv, theatre, poetry, musical and sketch comedy plus late and live comedy mixed bills, the Faulty Towers Dining Experience, the unpredictable Set List and Whose Line is it Anyway?
Kicking off our musical tour of Galway is Guinness Live, which returns to the Latin Quarter from 26 to 29 September. Now in its third year, Guinness Live is better than ever and this year’s event has more than forty free performances over the four days, so choosing where to be could be tricky. Highlights include a DJ set from Snow Patrol and Terri Hooley, Simon and Oscar from Ocean Colour Scene as well as Irish favourites Bipolar Empire, Kila, This Club and Wallis Bird.
You’d think that would be enough to keep Galway musically satiated for a while but no, of course not. The always-excellent Roisin Dubh is hosting Primal Scream, Chic with Nile Rodgers, KT Tunstall and The Waterboys over the next few months.
This legendary venue is a must-visit venue for music and comedy fans. The Roisin Dubh celebrates its 20th birthday this year (they grow up so fast!), and over the course of two decades has played host to more famous musicians than you could shake a stick at – although why you’d want to is quite another question. These include Christy Moore, Snow Patrol, Warren Zevon, Luka Bloom, The Frames, Violent Femmes, Jello Biafra, Modest Mouse, Frank Turner, New York Dolls, Billy Bragg, Thurston Moore, The Fall, Beardyman, Black Rebel Motorcycle Club, José Gonzaléz, Mercury Rev and Dinosaur Jr – and that’s just a tiny selection.
It is well worth your while catching a show here even if you don’t know the band playing, because the Roisin Dubh has long been a supporter of local, Irish and emerging talent. Some big name acts, such as Two Door Cinema Club, The xx, Ed Sheeran and Imelda May performed here before going on to make it big.
Another favourite of music fans is Monroe’s Live, which was voted ‘Live Venue of the Year’ in last year’s IMRO Awards. This is no mean feat as this is a public vote and as any music fan will know, there are great venues all across Ireland.
With two stages, a top-of the range sound and lighting set-up, an excellent cocktail menu and, of course, plenty of Galway charm from the crowd and staff, Monroe’s is one of the city’s favourite after dark spots. Damien Dempsey, Texas, Keywest, The Original Rudeboys and Ryan Sheridan have all had sell out shows here. In the coming weeks, Amelia Curran, Session Americana, Republic of Loose, Sharon Shannon and Mundy will be performing.
Monroe’s Live has also been known to spring a surprise or two, and has played host to secret gigs by Kodaline and Mumford & Sons amongst others, so you never know who will pop in. Which is why getting the Monroe’s Live app is an excellent idea if you’re heading to Galway. The app gives you access to exclusive offers and priority tickets and is available for iPhone and Android devices.
Galway is also home to a number of great music bars, such as Kelly’s Bar on Bridge Street, Tigh Neachtains (aka Naughtons) on Cross Street and the Townhouse in Spanish Parade.
Kelly’s has to be included on your musical tour of the city. This is one of Galway’s most vibrant pubs – which should tell you something – and a firm favourite with music fans. Upstairs is a state-of-the-art venue with live music five nights a week. International and local acts have performed here to great acclaim, including Scroobius Pip, The Magic Numbers, Darren Emerson, Duke Special and The Saw Doctors.
Kelly’s is also popular for their delicious cocktails and if you’ve ever fancied yourself as a mixologist, this is the place to learn. The cocktail class takes place in the private bar and lasts around two hours. There is an interactive demonstration and you can try your skills with two different cocktails from their extensive menu. Kelly’s also serves tasty, locally-sourced food and their breakfasts are some of the most popular in the city.
There is live music most nights at Townhouse, which is known for supporting up and coming acts – the bar and venue has a TV channel with live recordings to give you a flavour of what happens. Clever!
Tigh Neachtain’s is one of those lucky bars that are loved equally by locals and visitors, and the eclectic crowd that patronises the place is testament to its enduring popularity. The Neachtain family has run this pub since 1894, so at this stage they know a thing or two about pouring a tasty pint. Neachtains also know a thing or two about tasty food. Their lunch menu is supplied by Artisan Restaurant, which has won a clutch of Bridgestone awards and was recently voted the best restaurant in Connacht. But music is the food of love and it is music that draws the crowds – there is live trad music on every night of the week.
Some evenings you want to throw your hands in the air and wave ‘em like you just don’t care and Galway is not deficient in that regard either. Since opening its doors in 2011, Carbon has established itself as one of the city’s best clubs with an eclectic mix of music, drinks and party people. Smack bang in the centre of things, this purpose-built club is just two minutes walk from Eyre Square.
“We’re not trying to be all things to all people,” says Carbon’s Jonathan Byrne, “We’re a small, fun loving family of a club and we offer a wide selection of music and drinks and we do whatever we can to keep the masses entertained.”
Carbon has hosted big name DJs on Saturday nights including Calvin Harris, Dr. Lektroluv, The Subs, A-Trak and The Japanese Popstars and they are home to two of Galway’s best student nights on Mondays and Thursdays. Monday is HYPR with a mix of tunes, drink deals, beer bongs and an Xbox zone. Thursday night is “Beats and Bombs” – all bombs on the menu are €3 and the music is party favourites and big hits to kick off the weekend.
Wednesday night is straddles the musical spectrum of electro, house, indie and hip-hop. “We join the dots from Jay Z to Daft Punk” explains Jonathan. “It is the ultimate mix match of party music.”
Carbon is open from 11pm every night and goes on until 2am during the week and 2:30 on weekends.
There is more music happening at the Galway Jazz Festival from 10 to 13 October. The festival is now in its ninth year and the 2013 event is the biggest yet. Keep an eye out for details when they are announced.
Being Ireland’s ‘cultural heart’ there is plenty of things to do besides music. You can schlurp oysters at the Oyster Festival at the end of September. The Galway Theatre Festival takes place from 30 September to 6th October. Since its inception six years ago, the festival has become a highlight for Galway’s culture vultures and it works closely with Galway theatre companies including Blue Teapot, who do stunning theatre with actors with intellectual disabilities. Also worth looking out for is the Baboró International Arts Festival for Children from the second week of October, the Galway Science and Technology Festival Exhibition, and the Adventure Film Festival, both in November. And last but certainly not least, the Galway Races at the end of October – As Eliza Doolittle would say: “Come on Dover! Move yer bloomin’ arse!