12 Steps Planet: Marseille

Where exactly is it?
Marseille is on France’s south-eastern Mediterranean coast. It’s the country’s second largest city with a population in excess of 1.4 million. ‘The Phocean City’ also boasts the largest French port. To the east of Marseille lies the picturesque Calanques coast, dotted with sheltered fjords, to the west the Gulf of Lion, the Camargue wetlands and the river Rhône delta.
How do I get there?
Aer Lingus operate a direct service to Marseille Provence Airport three days a week from May ‘til September. Ryanair also schedule direct flights twice a week throughout the summer months. If you fancy visiting in spring or autumn Air France offer a one-stop service, connecting via-Paris Charles de Gaulle.
What language do they speak?
The official language is of course French. The local dialect is referred to as Provencal. There are also sizeable immigrant populations in this Mediterranean port city. Over a quarter of its citizens are of North African origin. It’s predicted that Marseille will become the first city in Europe with an Islamic majority.
What is the local beer like?
Unfortunately, Marseille doesn’t have any noteworthy tradition of brewing. The Alsace region near the German border and Nord-Pas-de-Calais are home to France’s indigenous beer industry. However, all the major European brands are available in the city’s pubs and clubs. French sparkling cider is certainly worth sampling and makes an excellent thirst quencher on a hot summer’s afternoon.
Other drinks?
Whilst France doesn’t produce any celebrated beer brands, it certainly makes up for it with quality wines and spirits! Pastis is an aromatic anise flavoured drink, served with water, that’s very popular along France’s southern coast. Anise-based tipples are widely consumed by the Med, such as the Greek Ouzo and Italian Sambuca. The nearby Côtes du Rhône region produces some of France’s most celebrated wines, the famed Cognac brandy is distilled in the south-western region of Charente. You certainly won’t want for choice in Marseille!
What is the transport like?
Marseille is an easy city to navigate and onward travel is very manageable. The local metro connects the downtown with the extensive suburbia and is supported by a large bus network. In recent years, a new tramway has begun operation, connecting the city with the port. If you fancy a taste of island life, it’s possible to catch a ferry to Sardinia, Corsica and even North African countries such as Tunisia and Algeria. Paris is reachable in less than three hours by the high-speed TGV train, which also connects directly to Brussels, Geneva and other European cities. Bordeaux, Montpellier, Toulon and many other regional centres are serviced by standard inter-city scheduled trains. The French motorway system is highly efficient and Marseille has direct access to four different routes to the west, east and north.
What’s the food like?
You’re in the south of France, sitting by the Med. You know the food’s going to be top notch! Marseille’s greatest gift to the culinary world is probably bouillabaisse, a divine fish and shellfish soup flavoured with vegetables and grated cheese. Caper and olive tapenade has its origins here as does aioli sauce prepared using garlic, lemon and olive oil. The local cuisine draws from the superb ingredients of the Provencal region, including herbs, garlic, tomatoes and seafood. There’s also a strong North African influence which has grown in recent years. Other popular dishes include daube, a lamb stew infused with olive and assorted vegetables, bourride a thick, spicy seafood stew and brandade, prepared using fresh salted cod. The food is fresh, flavoursome and the wines reasonably priced and first-rate. Whether it’s a five course banquet or an afternoon snack you’re in safe hands.
What’s the nightlife like?
Marseille’s nightlife is as eclectic as the city’s inhabitants. The Vieux Port area is something of a hotspot and boasts a broad selection of lively hostelries. If you fancy something a little more upmarket the waterfront has a number of terrace fronted jazz bars, specialising in cocktails and old-world comforts. The busy late bars of the L’Escale Borély district are favoured by the local university crowd and are worth visiting. Place aux Huiles is the place to go for lively jazz joints and African music. The square at Cours Julien teems with lively café bars and is a great place to watch the world go by. It’s also the preferred destination to sample some breaking hip hop talent. Quai de Rive Neuve has more than its fair share of crammed nightclubs, most which stay open until sun-up. Marseille has a vibrant dance music scene and a plethora of clubs. But, be warned, with limited air-conditioning they can get very sweaty! The local Marseillais have a penchant for tapas-serving, cocktail bars, of which there are plenty. Prices vary hugely from bar to bar, so make sure to ask ‘Combien?’ before reaching for that bottle of expensive cognac!
Why should I go?
A trip to Marseille is a truly reinvigorating experience. Unlike many European conurbations, Marseille’s inner-city is a thriving place not yet consumed by the middle-classes. There’s a surprise on every corner from the wonderfully colourful port and beach coves to the bustling street markets. The numerous bazaars offer an eclectic mix of goods, including North African crafts and the finest food-stuffs from provincial Provence. As you’d expect of a city founded by the Greeks around 600BC, Marseille is heaving with historical buildings, many well worth visiting. The streets bustle from dawn ‘til dusk, the nightlife’s great and weather generally perfect! It’s edgy, eclectic and never dull.
What are the touristy things to do?
Marseille has a wealth of historical sites, chief among them being the Old Port or Vieux Port. The harbour is flanked by two imposing fortresses, Fort St. Jean and Fort St. Nicolas. There are a number of significant museums including Musée Cantini, which houses an important collection of modern art including works by Pablo Picasso. The Musée d’Histoire documents the city’s past from the days of the Greek and Roman Empire. It also houses an immaculately preserved merchant ship dating back to the sixth century. Two of the largest religious buildings in France are situated in Marseille. These are the gigantic, Byzantine-style Basilica Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, built in the 19th century and Cathedral Sainte Marie Majeure which dates back to the fourth century. Little of the medieval Cathedral remains and instead a huge Romano-Byzantine edifice dominates the skyline. Sports fan shouldn’t miss the Stade Velodrome, home to the fanatical supporters of local football team Olympique Marseille. Approximately one mile off-shore in the bay of Marseille sits Château d’If, a foreboding fortress immortalised in Alexander Dumas’ novel The Count Of Monte Cristo. The famed prison is reachable by boat from the Old Port and is definitely worth the trip.
Anything else?
Marseille has a thriving hip hop scene, due in large to its sizeable African immigrant population. The artists vary from politically charged agitators to old skool imitators. It’s well worth seeking out an open-mic club night where young pretenders take on their more established peers in front of raucous crowds.
Anything to avoid?
The many restaurants that look out onto the old port are simply tourist traps. The fare is of average quality at best and the prices extortionate. Simply wander in a few blocks to find the real thing with prices that won’t set your heart aflutter!
What should I bring home?
You’ve plenty of great choice! Why not pick up some fine Mediterranean food produce from surrounding Provence? How about olive oil, dried herbs or maybe a bottle of fine regional wine for a song? Another popular gift is lavender-based bathroom products and perfumes. If you’re feeling flush, there are numerous galleries housing works by local contemporary artists.
When should I go?
The summer months are often stinking hot, with temperatures soaring towards the 40 degree mark. The spring period is a much less daunting mid-20s and you’re still guaranteed some gorgeous sunshine. It’s also a much cheaper time to visit with great deals available on hotels and excursions.
What’s my challenge?
Marseille is a wonderful city with an almost palpable vibrancy. In 2013 it will become European Capital of Culture and for good reason. The city has a thriving arts scene and a storied history dating back to 600BC. Add in great food, museums, a fascinating meld of multiple cultures and you’re beginning to scrape the surface of the old port town.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the euro (EUR).
Something to remember...
Marseille is a city blighted by poverty. Inward migration is high and unemployment is 50% above the national average. Yet despite all its social issues, Marseille remains one of the most beautiful and welcoming cities in Europe. Once dubbed the ‘Chicago of the South’ due to its organised crime network, the port city is determined to shake off its often dubious image.