12 Step Planet: Wellington

Where exactly is it?
Wellington is the world’s southernmost capital and the second largest city in New Zealand. ‘Welly’ is located on the southwest coast of the country’s North Island and takes its name from the Duke of Wellington, commander of the victorious allied army at the Battle of Waterloo. The South Island lies a mere 15 miles away, across the narrow Cook Strait. Wellington has a population of approximately 400,000 inhabitants.
How do I get there?
Wellington’s one hell of a spin from Ireland! It’s over 12,000 miles away and flight times vary depending on the number of stopovers. However, there’s plenty of good value, two-stop options available from London’s main airports, with an average flight time of 32 hours. Common en route stopovers include Bangkok and Singapore, followed by a brief touchdown in Auckland. British Airways, Air New Zealand and Qantas all run a competitive scheduled service.
What language do they speak?
English is the first language of practically the city’s entire population. The indigenous Maori tongue has undergone a rebirth in recent years, with 5% of the city’s inhabitants classified as fluent and a further 3% fluent in Samoan.
What’s the local beer like?
New Zealanders aren’t big drinkers by Western European standards. But the country boasts a thriving cottage beer industry. The first beer brewed in ‘The Land of the Long White Cloud’ was during Captain Cook’s epoch. Interestingly, it was seen as an ideal treatment against scurvy, which is of course nonsense! Originally, the most popular brews were ales and stouts, due to the influx of English, Scottish and Irish immigrants. Today, malty varieties of draught lager are the market leader. Two main breweries Lion and DB dominate the mainstream, while many smaller micro-breweries offer a wider selection of craft brews. Amongst the most popular are Steinlager and Spreight’s Gold Medal Ale and classic draught beers such as Canterbury
and Waikato.
Other drinks?
If traditionally brewed cider floats your boat, you’ve come to the right place! Amongst the standout brands are Monteith’s Crushed Apple and Pear Ciders and Harvest’s fruity, crisp Premium label. If you fancy something a little stronger, then check out Harvest’s super-charged ‘Scrumpy’, it’s a mind-bending 8.2%! The New Zealand wine market continues to go from strength to strength internationally and NZ Sauvignon Blanc is widely regarded as the world’s best.
What’s the transport like?
Getting around Wellington is a doddle! Metlink operate a comprehensive bus network, connecting the outlying suburbs with the downtown. A four-line electric train service moves commuters from the sprawling suburbia to the central business district and a number of passenger ferries operate between Wellington and neighbouring coastal towns. Onward travel is easy; Wellington is situated on the southern fringe of the North Island Main Trunk Railway, which runs a daily service to Auckland and the two main highways terminate in Wellington. Wellington International Airport is a short spin from the downtown and ferries to the South Island operate from the city’s harbour.
What’s the food like?
‘Kiwis’ love their hearty food! The traditional diet is heavily influenced by their British forefathers but, in recent times, Polynesian, Mediterranean and Pacific Rim cuisines have grown in popularity. Wellington is something of a foodie paradise, with many award-winning cafés, bars and restaurants (over 300 at last count). There are special culinary tours of Wellington, which take in everything from funky cafés to Maori banquets. If you’re fortunate enough to attend a Maori gathering, food will be prepared using the age-old, earth-oven ‘Hangi’ method. A popular Maori staple is the ‘boil-up’, which contains potato, pork pieces and kumara. The strongest ‘Pakeha’ (non-Maori) influence is probably Scottish and many of its baking traditions live on today, including scones and shortbreads. The country’s vast sheep herd ensures that lamb is a certainty on every menu. In more recent times, New Zealand has become well-known for its excellent cheese and
wine varieties.
What’s the nightlife like?
Wellington’s certainly not a wild party capital. However, it’s still a great place to grab a few beers and check out a live band. The laidback natives take their time when out on the town, favouring a more relaxed socialising style. To get your bearings and discover some of the city’s classiest watering holes, check out the Craft Beer Capital Trail. It outlines Welly’s best brewpubs and details of the brews on offer are featured in a free pocket map. The action after dark is concentrated around such areas as Courtenay Place, Queen’s Wharf and Lambton Quay. For the best in local and international live music, head for the San Francisco Bath House on Cuba Street and nearby Mighty Mighty is one of the city’s landmark pub/live music venues. The oddly named Sandwiches is the venue of choice for fans of electronica, house and techno. Culture vultures should take in a performance at one of the National Orchestra, Opera and Royal New
Zealand Ballet.
Why should I go?
Wellington is a wonderful city and an ideal holiday destination. It’s cosmopolitan, but without the gridlocked traffic and massive population normally associated with capital cities. It teems with cultural activity, is a centre for the arts, boasts fantastic cafés and restaurants and is within striking distance of the wild, unspoilt landscape of the South Island. Christened ‘Wellywood’ due to its burgeoning film industry, it was the production nerve centre for Peter Jackson’s Lord Of The Rings trilogy. The urban centre is flanked by a series of hilly neighbourhoods that slope down towards the harbour and the Cook Strait. Wellington may be New Zealand’s capital city, but it certainly doesn’t feel like it! It’s warm, friendly and practically
horizontal in comparison with big brother, Auckland.
What are the touristy things to do?
Te Papa, the National Museum of New Zealand, is the number one tourist attraction in Wellington and with good reason. It’s simply epic; a gigantic five-storey building that houses a vast number of artefacts and exhibits telling the country’s story from prehistoric times. The protected woodland area on the fringe of the city known as Zealandia is a major attraction and has been credited with greatly increasing numbers of native fauna in the region. The Wellington Cable Car is a great way to get panoramic views of the city and it also conveniently stops at another tourist magnet, the Botanic Gardens. Whilst in the area, check out the Carter Observatory, one of the world’s most people friendly planetariums. Matiu/Somes Island, situated in Wellington harbour, is a beautiful wildlife reserve that’s only a short boat trip away. The city’s artistic/alternative community is based around chic Cuba Street. It’s a great place to shop, eat or simply people watch. For a taste of movie magic, head to the Weta Cave in Miramar. It tells
the fascinating story of Wellington’s
film boom.
Anything else?
If you’re a fan of the pop art genre, don’t miss the Popup Gallery on Ghuznee Street. It houses a fascinating collection detailing the latest trends in everything from street art to avant garde surrealism!
Anything to avoid?
In recent years, the New Zealand dollar has increased in value against the euro and as a result, things have gotten a whole lot more expensive. Plan your trip and budget accordingly. Avoid waiting on last-minute hotel deals, because you’re likely to pay a lot more at
short notice.
What should I bring home?
New Zealand indigenous crafts are of a very high standard. Amongst the most popular gifts are fine wines, traditional Maori wood carvings and jade-stone jewellery. Sweaters and scarves made from Merino wool are very popular, as is New Zealand’s gift to the global health food market, Manuka honey.
When should I go?
Windy Wellington has a temperate climate that ensures temperature extremes are a rarity. For a guarantee of fine, pleasant conditions, head south during the local summer, that’s any time between December and February.
What’s my challenge?
Take it nice and easy! Wellington is a feast for the senses and best explored at a slow, unhurried pace. Sample the culinary delights of the local cuisine, sip some of the southern hemisphere’s best wines and immerse yourself in the local arts. If rugby’s your thing, pick up a ticket to see the local Super Rugby team, The Hurricanes. They play at the Westpac stadium, affectionately known as the ‘Cake Tin’.
What’s the currency?
The New Zealand Dollar (NZD$)
Something to remember...
Wellington has suffered a series of massive earthquakes in the past, hardly surprising considering a fault line runs through the city limits! The devastating quakes of recent years in the Canterbury region have resulted in a re-examination of the city’s readiness to withstand a tremor of this magnitude.