12 Step Planet: WASHINGTON DC

Where exactly is it?
The American capital is squeezed into the 70 square mile District of Columbia, at the far end of the United States’ Mid-Atlantic region, some 226 miles south of New York. It borders the mighty Potomac River and is between the states of Virginia and Maryland. Virginia is where the historical American South begins, placing Washington on the traditional fault lines between Red and Blue America. The District of Columbia does not belong in any US state. It is under the jurisdiction of the American Congress.
How do I get there?
Aer Lingus and United Airlines operate daily flights from Dublin to Washington Dulles. The larger of Washington’s two airports, from Dulles you can connect to the DC rail network via-shuttle bus or take a 30 minute cab or bus ride to the city.
What language do they speak?
The natives speak English, though with a fast expanding Latino community, you’re likely to hear Spanish as well. As Federal capital Washington draws people from around the United States and there isn’t such a thing as a ‘local’ accent. However, as soon as you hit the Virginia commuter belt a Southern drawl is noticeable. Of course, with practically every nation on earth maintaining a Washington embassy, the person at that next restaurant table could be speaking French, Russian or Turkmen.
What’s the local beer like?
The American craft brew revolution is centred on the North East and specialist beers are in abundance throughout DC. In the heart of the city’s business district, Capitol City Brewing Company (1100 New York Avenue) has a range of in-house brands, including Amber Waves Ale, Prohibition Porter and Capitol Kolsch. If you can spare the time it’s worth a trek to the sticks and the Dogfishhead Alehouse in Gaithersburg, Maryland (a 35 min drive from DC). At the forefront of the craft brew craze, Dogfishhead specialises in high alcohol content beers – recommendations include the 8% ABV 90 Minute IPA, the 10% Burton Baton and Palo Santo, weighing in at a bowel quaking 12% (you’ll probably want to skip the sensitively named Black & Ten bitter though).
Other drinks?
A city that runs on caffeine, Washington seems to have a Starbucks on every corner. However there are lots of non-corporate alternatives. One of the oldest is the ME Swing Coffee House, on G St., close to Capitol Hill and the White House. In business since 1916, its beans are handcraft roasted and it’s famous for the knock-your-socks off strength of its java blend. Opened just last year, in contrast, the China Town Coffee Company, at H St. is so cutting edge it has its own iPhone app. Its Black Cat Espresso is already legendary among the city’s coffee purists.
What’s the transport like?
Washington’s underground Metro line is the second busiest in the United States, after New York. With five lines – and a sixth under construction – it carries some 800,000 commuters daily. One of America’s newest metro systems, its first connection opened in 1976. Fittingly for the American capital, it was designed to convey a quasi-classical grandeur – created by architect Harry Weese, the stations combine late 20th century modernism and 50s-style brutalism. Wandering these huge, impassive concourses you’re left in little doubt that the corridors of power are close at hand. The metro links to an extensive rail system, shuttling commuters to dormer towns in Virginia and Maryland, as well as connecting with Delaware, Philadelphia, New York and further afield. There’s also an elaborate downtown bus network and two airports, Dulles (international flights) and Ronald Reagan National (internal).
What’s the food like?
As with most large American cites, in Washington whatever the diner wants the diner gets. Downtown, this usually divides between high end power-lunching in white linen restaurants or cheerful burger ‘n’ fries joints where the portions as so large you can feel your arteries stiffening just looking at them. For more diversity, try the ‘burbs. Hip Georgetown is crammed with ethnic eateries while the area around DuPont Circle, northwest of the city proper has lots of Asian fusion restaurants. With nearby Maryland, renowned for its seafood (crabs a specialty) there are lots of options in that direction too. A big favourite with locals is new opening Blue 44 on Connecticut Avenue, which serves seasonal Americana cuisine with French and Italian overtones. It’s worth getting in line for brunch, 11 am to 2.30 pm on Sundays. Pre-empt the tough menu choices at www.blue44dc.com.
What’s the nightlife like?
Musically, Washington is perhaps best known for its late ‘80s and early ‘90s hardcore scene, where angry young men, many raised in strict army households, blew off steam by embracing full throttle rock ‘n’ roll. Important DC punk bands included Bad Brains, Teen Idols and Minor Threat, which would later evolve into Fugazi, the grunge-era group famed for its anti-commercial stance. Indeed, Minor Threat/ Fugazi leader Ian McKaye would arguably make the biggest long-term contribution to DC music with his label Dischord. Dave Grohl started out as a member of local group Scream, which reformed sans the Nirvana/Foo Fighters man in 2009. Of course, Washington music goes back much further. Jazz legend Duke Ellington was a native, as was soulstress Roberta Flack. The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts is a major venue (upcoming performers include comedian Louis CK and The Chieftains – now that’s covering your bases) and the city has a respected jazz and bluegrass circuit along with an internationally regarded concert orchestra. If you just want to dance, there’s no lack of clubs either. Recommendations include the 9.30 (U St.) which has four bars and DC’s largest dancefloor and Fur (33 Patterson St.), is housed in a former warehouse and outfitted with an espresso bar.
Why should I go?
Washington doesn’t have the frantic energy of New York or the La-La-Land ditziness of Los Angeles. But no other city gives you as powerful a sense of what America stands for or how the most powerful country in the world came into being. Strolling down the National Mall from Capitol Hill to the Washington Monument, taking in the Lincoln Memorial and the Vietnam War memorial, you come to understand American’s vision of itself as a Republic representing a fresh start after centuries of tyranny and warfare in Europe – and of the ways in which it has failed to live up to these ideals (the Vietnam memorial, which consists simply of the names of the dead on a long, slanting wall, is chillingly understated).
What are the touristy things to do?
Ascend the steps of the Lincoln Memorial where a carved statue of Daniel Day-Lewis sits in stoic repose (history was never our strong point). Check out the Smithsonian Museum, which sprawls across several buildings and features such treasures as the Hope Diamond, an Apollo moonlander craft and, huzzah!, the Starship Enterprise model featured in the original series. Or else just stroll down K St., ground zero of the American political lobbying industry and feel the thrum of power all around. Alas, a tour of the White House is a tall ask. Normally, these tours are arranged by Congressmen and women and, thus, limited to US nationals. However, you can submit a request for a tour via-the US Embassy in Washington, though it’s best to do this before you arrive.
Anything to avoid?
You’ll have to walk quite a distance before finding yourself in one of the District’s no-go suburbs. Though not to be avoided as such, some landmarks are a bit underwhelming. FBI headquarters, across the road from the Smithsonian, for instance, is a dull bunker that could have been brought to you by the guy who designed Busáras and the Abbey Theatre. After dark, the city centre tends to go into lock-down – there’s none of the 24/7 buzz you find in New York. So if you haven’t planned your evenings you may end up at a loose end.