12 Step Planet: Sofia

Where exactly is it?
Sofia is the capital city of Bulgaria and its largest urban area with a population of approximately 1.3 million. On the country’s western fringe, Sofia is situated at the apex of three mountain passes. These once key routes connected the Adriatic, Aegean and Black Seas, making it an important strategic location in bygone days. The mountainous Sofia Valley surrounds the city on all sides and the beautiful Vitosha Mountain begins to rise on the city’s northern edge.
How do I get there?
The best value option for now is to fly Lufthansa from Dublin to Sofia, via Frankfurt. The stopover in Germany varies from one to four hours. A similar service is operated by Air France, via Paris, Charles de Gaulle airport. Most of the major European hubs connect to the Bulgarian capital. If time isn’t an issue, why not fly to Vienna and travel by train to the Balkan city? It’s a wonderful way to experience the majestic landscape of Eastern Europe.
What language do they speak?
The official language is Bulgarian, a Slavic tongue, based on the Cyrillic alphabet. Sofians speak the popular western dialect. Native languages are also commonly used amongst the minority communities of Turkish, Roma, Russian and Greek immigrants. Thankfully, the majority of the city’s signposts also carry an English translation.
What is the local beer like?
Bulgaria has a thriving beer industry, with a number of home-produced lagers dominating the market. Amongst the favourites are Zagorka, Kamenitza and Astika. You can’t go wrong with Kamenitza Dark, a rich tasting, amber lager, but the mild, smooth Zagorka is the most popular with the locals. However, Stolichno Bock gets my vote. This dark, malty brew has a wonderful caramel flavour and packs a decent punch at 6.5%.
Other drinks?
Bulgarians like their beer, and wine is also popular, but rakia still retains its status as the nation’s favourite alcoholic tipple. Made from distilling fermented fruit juice, rakia comes in a variety of flavours. Strength varies, from 35% to homemade versions which often well exceed 60%! Grape based rakia is widely available, as is the plum version known as slivovitz. Vishnooka is a rakia-based cocktail, prepared using herbs and honey. Rakia is normally served with food, usually as an accompaniment to the starter course or meze. Be it mealtimes or important family occasions, a bottle of rakia will definitely make an appearance at some stage...
What is the transport like?
Sofia is well serviced by an extensive rail and road network. The main hub of activity is the gigantic adjoining central train and bus stations. Transport to neighbouring countries is well-priced and it’s possible to connect to neighbouring cities in Romania, Serbia, Macedonia and further afield in Hungary, Austria and other Balkan states. Unlike most European capitals, taxi fares are very reasonable; making cabs an affordable way to get about. However, much of the urban road network is in dire need of an upgrade and severe traffic congestion is a common problem due to the extremely high level of car ownership. However, efforts are being made to improve the situation. The inner-city is connected through a series of tram and trolleybus lines, whilst the ever-developing Sofia metro continues to expand with a third line due for completion in the next year.
What’s the food like?
Bulgarian cuisine is very diverse and has been extensively influenced by neighbouring Turkey, Romania and Greece. A large number of herbs and spices are used in hot meals, while an opening salad course, served with shots of rakia, is very common. The food is generally excellent, prepared using fresh, locally grown vegetables added to a variety of meat stews. Amongst the most common dishes are kavarma, a gorgeous tasting pork and vegetable stew and kebapcheta, a spicy grilled mincemeat dish. Shopska is a popular salad-starter consisting of tomatoes, onions and cucumbers, topped off with grated white cheese. This is often served with snezhanka, a yogurt flavoured with garlic, gherkins and garnished with chopped nuts. For something completely different try the yogurt and cucumber based cold soup dish tarator. All matter of skewered grilled meat and fish dishes are available, usually served with a choice of yogurts and spicy sauce accompaniments.
What’s the nightlife like?
Sofians love their down-time and are extremely sociable people. Also, the rules determining the sale of alcohol are loosely enforced, ensuring that there’s always somewhere to go, whatever time of day or night! The Vitosha boulevard area comes alive in the evening with its myriad of bars and cafés. The city is full of nightclubs, many playing all matter of cheesy local pop and international hits. Fans of techno should look no further than the huge Escape club. If the night’s balmy there’s no shortage of beautiful courtyard bars and late-night restaurants. One of the city’s most popular late haunts is Caramba, a Latin-themed club specialising in live Cuban music. However, you just never know what’s going to happen in a Sofia club, where table-top dancing and striptease are par for the course! Live music is widely available and varies from traditional to old-school punk bands. Amongst the best venues are the Swinging Hall and Back Stage. Sofia has a huge student population and the area adjacent to the main university campus is teeming with excellent bars. For something a little different, check the listings for a performance by a local gypsy orchestra.
Why should I go?
Sofia is a wonderfully welcoming and sociable city, largely unspoilt by western tourism. It’s surprisingly cosmopolitan and its young population adds to the vibrant atmosphere. The city streets reflect its long history with remnants from the communist period side-by-side with relics from the era of the Ottoman Empire, especially the many beautifully restored mosques. The city has a large choice of cultural activities and you’re never more than a stone’s throw from an excellent café or bar. Nature lovers are only minutes from the surrounding countryside and the ski slopes of Mount Vitosha are literally on the city’s edge. It’s also excellent value, making it possible to play hard without burning a serious hole in the pocket!
What are the touristy things to do?
Sofia has plenty of sights for the aspiring history buff. The National Museum of Military History gives a detailed and informed account of the country’s struggles from earliest times. Housed in the Royal Palace, the National Art Gallery showcases the best in Bulgarian art from every era, while the nearby Gallery of Foreign Art has eclectic displays of everything from Japanese prints to African tribalism. It’s also home to some significant works by Degas, Renoir and Van Dyck. The sumptuous Sveti Nikolai church was built nearly a hundred years ago by Russian immigrants and features classic, onion-shaped gold domes and mosaic outer walls. The National Opera and Ballet holds regular concerts and is well worth a visit. The vast Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is certainly hard to miss. Its huge interior can accommodate over 10,000 pilgrims! The tenth century Boyana Church, built by medieval Orthodox Christians is renowned for its intact frescoes and has UNESCO status. Fans of football, basketball and volleyball are well catered for in Sofia. Bulgarians are fanatical sports fans and the city boasts a number of fierce rivalries, especially football matches between CSKA and Levski. Not for the faint-hearted!
Anything else?
Take a trip to Sofia in the winter and enjoy some of the cheapest skiing anywhere in Europe! With slopes situated about an hour from the downtown it’s possible to try your hand at some winter-sports and still make it back to city before the party really gets started! An easy way to dip-your-toe without the weeklong expense...
Anything to avoid?
The Jenski Pazar (women’s market) is a great place to photograph stalls piled-high with fresh fruit, vegetables and local crafts, but it’s also overrun with pickpockets! Typical of many continental cities, Sofia’s main train station is best avoided at night. It’s a magnet for a whole plethora of dodgy characters.
What should I bring home?
A bottle of premium grape rakia will certainly not go to waste! Sofia is also one of the best destinations for collectors of Soviet-era kitsch. The Halite market is full of stalls selling broad selections of food stuffs, including Bulgarian wines and cheeses. If you’ve a penchant for religious iconography then you’re certainly in the right place!
When should I go?
It all depends on what you’re after. If wrapping up and the sight of snow covered mountains are to your liking then January is the time to visit. Temperatures plummet to sub-zero and ski season is in full-flight. The summer months are very hot, often reaching close to the 40 degree mark. Mercifully, the city is transformed into an outdoor experience, full of vibrant street-side bars and cafe lined boulevards.
What’s my challenge?
Soak up the unique atmosphere of this fantastic city. Immerse yourself in its fascinating history, sample the varied styles of cuisine and mingle with the friendly locals over a few drinks. Sofia is a city to be embraced and enjoyed to its fullest.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Bulgarian Lev (BGN). Bulgaria is expected to join the Eurozone in the next three years.
Something to remember...
Poverty is rife in Sofia. Over a quarter of the city’s citizens live below the poverty line. In recent years, the country has suffered from high inflation and significant increases in fuel and food prices. Begging and pick-pocketing are common on the streets and unregulated prostitution is a growing problem.