12 Step Planet: Shanghai

Where exactly is it?

The ‘Paris of the East’ is the most developed city in China, with its name a literal translation of “on the sea”. Shanghai is south of the Yangtze river and where China first met the West. It remains a frontier city, its populace obsessed with trends in fashion, technology and architecture.
How do I get there?
With no direct flights from Ireland to China, the best option is via-London with British Airways. www.britishairways.com.

What language do they speak?
The official language nationwide is Mandarin. However, the vernacular language is Shànghainese, a dialect of Wu Chinese. Though not used in education and rarely seen in written form, it’s an essential part of the Shànghainese identity.

What’s the local beer like?
Most Chinese beers are pale lagers but other kinds are occasionally found, such as the dark and very tasty Tsingtao, which has started making it into Irish restaurants and offies. Unique to Shànghai is the Shànghai Brewery, which features six styles of fresh handcrafted micro-brewed beers. It has two locations, Hongmei Lu and Dong Ping Lu, in the heart of the former French Concession.

What is the transport like?
Eight subway lines crisscross the city. Avoid the 7am – 9am and 4.30pm – 7.30pm rush hours, both of which will test your mental and physical well-being! Alternatively there are numerous taxi companies operating throughout the city. The light blue and orange ones are the cheapest and most reliable.

What is the food like?
Do Chinese eat cats and dogs? Yes, but do not be alarmed. If you happen to stumble across a restaurant that serves either, it will be clearly stated on the menu. It won’t be a case that you order beef and then realise you’re actually eating Fido (or, heaven forbid, Dobbin the horse). Shànghai offers a variety of culinary options, from roadside stalls to Michelin-star restaurants. Must-try dishes include Xiaolongbao, the famous soup dumpling, Di Shui Dong ribs and Grilled oysters.

What is the nightlife like?
As with any megaapolis, Shànghai caters to all tastes. The Apartment on Yungfu Lu is a New York-style loft with a clubby vibe and impeccably-dressed 20 to 30-year-old regulars. Also on Yongfu Lu is The Shelter, a converted bomb shelter where DJs spin dubstep, hip-hop and drum and bass. Arcade on Yuxing Lu is a funky indie bar with great cocktails – try the Shizojito! Across the road you’ll find JZ, one of the best local jazz clubs.

Why should I go?
Shànghai is one of the most dynamic cities in the world. It’s a place of stunning contrasts, eye-popping modern architecture and ancient temples standing cheek by jowl.

What are the touristy things to do?
Go to People’s Square, where you’ll find one of China’s largest, glistening-white statues of Mao Zedong, as well as two new Louvre-like glass pyramids. Visit at dawn to watch tai-chi performers framed by the sun.

Anything else?
Beware of Shànghainese scam artists! The scams mostly happen around touristy areas like People’s Square, Nanjing Lu or the Bund, the old financial quarter. In general, be suspicious if someone starts speaking to you on the street in English. Shànghainese are very friendly but seldom approach a foreigner without being asked.

What should I bring home?
Pearls, Hangzhou silk, Hangzhou embroidery, West Lake silk umbrellas, Tianzhu bamboo chopsticks, as well as white chrysanthemum tea and world-famous Longjing tea.

When should I go?
Spring, summer or autumn. With a subtropical maritime climate, Shànghai is generally mild and moist at these times. Avoid Chinese New Year, as the city tends to get extremely over-crowded.

What’s the currency?
Chinese yuan (also known as renminbi, rmb for short) is the official and legal currency. Use of foreign currencies is usually not allowed but it‘s very easy to change euro to yuan in any of the banks throughout the city.
Something to remember....It all started with a little bit of opium. During the early years of the Qing dynasty (1644 – 1911) Britain was trading in the only open port to the West, Canton, south of Shànghai. British purchases of tea and silk far outweighed Chinese purchases of wool and spices. In order to increase Chinese purchases, the British decided to slip into India and swap silver for opium with which to purchase Chinese goods. The British passion for tea was finally matched by China’s craving for opium. Thus was created Shànghai’s bipolar reputation as the exquisite Paris of the East and the infamous whore of the Orient.