12 Step Planet: Savannah

Where exactly is it?
Savannah is in the state of Georgia, traditionally part of the Deep South. The ‘Hostess City of the South’ is an important Atlantic seaport close to the head of the Savannah river. Neighbouring South Carolina lies only a short distance to the north. Once the provincial capital of colonial Georgia today Savannah is both a key industrial city and a huge tourist attraction, mainly due to its period architecture and storied past.
How do I get there?
Your best bet is to catch a direct flight from London to Georgia’s capital Atlanta. Delta Airlines offer a good value, year-round service with flight time at about eight hours. From there you can catch a short-hop Delta flight or, if you fancy driving, it’s a leisurely four-hour cruise along the interstate highway.
What language do they speak?
English is the first language of the bulk of the city’s citizens, with Spanish spoken by a minority of Hispanic immigrants. Savannah is also part of the unofficial ‘Gullah Nation’ region, famous for African-American immigrants who’ve maintained cultural and linguistic links with West Africa. Gullah speak a dialect known as Geechee, which is an English-based Creole language peppered with African words and sentence structures.
What’s the local beer like?
The Terrapin beer company, located in nearby Athens, is renowned for its fantastic craft ales. They include Rye Pale Ale, Golden Ale and the excellently named Hopsecutioner IPA! Savannah itself can boast the Moon River Brewing Company, a famous brewpub in the downtown area. Amongst their finest poisons are Swamp Fox India Pale Ale, Apparition Ale and the award-winning Captain’s Porter. The city is dotted with a number of fine micro-breweries, well worth checking out.
Other drinks?
Georgia, like much of the southern states, is a major producer of bourbon whiskey. The whiskey producing tradition was brought to the Appalachian region by Scots-Irish migrants in the eighteenth century. Bourbon is distilled from corn and added assorted grains, and oak barrel aged to enhance the flavour. The Viking distillery produces Winwood Georgia Straight Bourbon Whiskey, an excellent, locally produced version. If you’re adventurous (or stupid) moonshine is still illegally produced in rural Georgia. By all means ask, but be prepared for some strange looks and the prospect of lead poisoning!
What is the transport like?
Chatham Area Transit operates a comprehensive bus service throughout Savannah metropolitan area. With a population of just over half a million, Savannah is easily navigable by foot, with most of the key sites located within easy reach of the downtown area.
If you’re on the lazy side, there’s fare free transportation available in the historic district, including the River Street streetcar and the Hutchinson Island ferry.
For onward travel, Savannah is situated on the New York to Miami train route with Amtrak running a three-time daily service. Hilton-Head International Airport is minutes from downtown. A number of Interstate highways connect Savannah with key cities in the region.
What’s the food like?
The low-country region of coastal Georgia and the Carolinas is best known for seafood and rice dishes. It’s also comparable to Cajun cuisine due to the numerous Caribbean and African influences. The region’s many estuaries provide an abundance of fish, shrimp, crab, while the marshy plains of nearby South Carolina are cultivated for rice production. For a taste of Georgia check out some crab cakes followed by a feast of shrimp ‘n’ grits. She-crab soup is a local delicacy made from cream, blue crab, fish stock and a dash of sherry. Another popular dish is Hoppin’ John, which consists of rice, black-eyed peas, chopped onion and bacon. In general, the local diet is healthier than many parts of the Deep South.
What’s the nightlife like?
Savannah’s nightlife is truly eclectic. Once described as the ‘beautiful lady with the dirty face’ it revels in its reputation as a serious party town. If you like live music you’ve definitely come to the right place! There’s a broad choice on offer from bluegrass to jazz, salsa to country and of course, rock, southern style. The city’s many hostelries vary from high-end wine bars to rickety old dives, complete with lively pool and gaming rooms. Savannah specialises in old-time entertainment, with raucous piano joints and Appalachian mountain music sessions aplenty in the historic district. For a taste of local kitsch, check out the Creepy Crawly Haunted Pub Tour. It’s that perfect mix of outlandish ghost stories and copious amounts of alcohol! If you fancy a little sophistication, downtown has its fair share of stylish wine bars and clubs. Savannah’s southern hospitality is a joy and its laidback and friendly atmosphere keeps them coming back, year after year!
Why should I go?
Savannah is both an ideal starting point for exploring the Deep South and a fantastic destination in its own right. It’s where American colonial history and modernity sit comfortably side-by-side. The wonderful period architecture, super-friendly natives and spirited nightlife are reasons enough to visit Georgia’s coastal gem. Spend your days browsing in boutiques, sampling craft beers in microbreweries or exploring one of the many museums and historical parks. The city’s infectious atmosphere is often compared to New Orleans, a heady mix of culture, cuisine, music and mayhem!
What are the touristy things to do?
One of the chief attractions in Savannah is the old city’s pristinely maintained colonial architecture. The historic district is one of a select few National Historic Landmark Districts of the United States. See it on foot or hop on a carriage-drawn tour around the historic neighbourhoods. Amongst the chief sights is the Savannah Historic Musuem, which documents the city’s past from its time as one of the country’s original colonies right up to the present day. The regency architecture of period homes such as the Owens-Thomas House and the Mercer-Williams House is like stepping back in time. The First Bryan Baptist Church is Georgia’s first African-American congregation, which started in 1788 and nearby Laurel Grove Cemetery is one of the most significant Confederate graveyards from the civil war period. River Street’s restored bars, restaurants and cotton houses are a fascinating place to soak up the unique ambience. Wartime buffs should check out the Mighty Eight Air Force Heritage Museum, which documents the squadron’s exploits in WWII right through to Desert Storm.
Anything else?
Due to its immaculately preserved buildings and parks, Savannah has been the setting for over 80 movies. Why not visit some of these famed locations? Films include Forrest Gump, Glory, Cape Fear and Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil. Guided tours recreating famous film scenes are also available.
Anything to avoid?
Savannah draws in huge amounts of tourists every year and as a result, pick-pocketing and petty thefts are rife. Be smart and don’t carry around large amounts of cash, especially at night. Also, avoid hiring a car while visiting Savannah. Car parking is nearly impossible to find and break-ins are common. Anyway, a car is completely unnecessary.
What should I bring home?
Savannah is a bric-a-brac lover’s paradise! Shops selling everything from old vinyl to antiques dot the old city. Savannah Art Works specialise in local folk art, while Universe Trading Company’s warehouse must be amongst the largest collections of vintage oddities in the world! You could literally find anything there...
When should I go?
Georgia’s warm and pleasant springt is the ideal time to visit Savannah. If you’re not a fan of savage heat and oppressive humidity then avoid the summer! Temperatures can hit the 40 celcius mark during July, bringing the city’s inhabitants scampering indoors for shade.
What’s my challenge?
Soak up the classic charm of the old city. Enjoy the sights of colonial Savannah and sample the low-country’s scrumptious seafood. Most of all make sure to say ‘hi’ to the locals. It’s not called the Hostess City of the South for nothing! Hospitality is an art form down these parts.
What’s the currency?
The United States Dollar (USD$).
Something to remember...
The Port of Savannah was once an important hub for the slave trade. Many of these unfortunate African-Americans worked on the region’s flourishing cotton plantations and soon Savannah became the world leader for cotton trading. Savannah’s tale is the story of the American south from plantation to slavery, civil war to civil rights and freedom.