12 Step Planet: Salzburg

Where exactly is it?
Salzburg is located in western Austria, a mere five miles from the German border. The ‘Festival City’ is situated on the banks of the Salzach river and the nearby Alps dominate the skyline to the south. Salzburg’s historic Old Town was chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
How do I get there?
Ryanair operate a direct service from Dublin to WA Mozart Airport, during the winter ski season. Service begins in mid-December and runs until the end of March. However, if winter sports aren’t your bag, getting there can prove a little trickier! If you’ve time on your hands, why not fly Aer Lingus to Munich and then make the scenic train trip to Salzburg? The journey only takes about 90 minutes.
What language do they speak?
German. If you fancy trotting out a few choice phrases of Leaving Cert Deutsch, Salzburg’s a good place to try! Austrians speak a lot slower than their near neighbours. Many Salzburgers, especially those based in the historic Altstadt, speak excellent English.
What is the local beer like?
Unsurprisingly, considering its proximity to Bavaria, a wide variety of excellent beers are brewed in provincial Salzburg. Stiegl is the dominant force, but, if you’re looking for something a little different, there are many micro-brewed alternatives. The renowned 400-year-old Müllner Bräu brewery is something of a national institution. It’s actually operated by an Augustinian monastery and situated only minutes from the city centre. Müllner Bräu produces the famed Augustiner Märzen, which can be sampled directly from oak barrels in the monastery’s wonderful traditional beer hall. Salzburgers are very passionate about their beer.
Other drinks?
Connoisseurs of spirits and liqueurs should make a bee-line for Sporer’s shop/bar, located on the touristy Getreidegasse. This cosy, family-run hostelry produces probably the region’s finest schnapps. It comes in a whole host of flavours, ranging from cinnamon to peppermint! If schnapps aren’t to your liking, why not try some Leibwächter herbs bitter? This is a 35% volume spirit made with over 50 herbs, roots and fruits. It’s commonly used in cocktails and is similar in taste to its German equivalent, Jägermeister.
What is the transport like?
Everything runs like clockwork in Salzburg, especially the transport! However, the old city is so compact that it’s unlikely you’ll feel the need to catch many trams or buses. Its atmospheric cobbled streets are definitely best experienced on foot. Nevertheless, if you’re on a flying visit, this quaint conurbation of just over 200,000 people is easily traversed using the local trolleybus network or the regional S-Bahn train system. Situated as it is at the crossroads of central Europe, Salzburg is well-connected by train to other historic metropolises such as Vienna, Munich and Zurich. WA Mozart airport primarily connects Salzburg with the major German cities, namely Frankfurt and Hamburg.
What’s the food like?
Austrian gastronomy is hearty and wholesome. Vegetarians beware; they certainly like their meat! The Wiener schnitzel, normally prepared using veal, is probably Austria’s greatest gift to international cuisine. Similar to neighbouring Bavaria, Salzburgers are especially fond of sausage meat or ‘wurst’. Amongst the best-loved are blunzn, made from pigs‘ blood and weisswurst, prepared using veal, bacon and assorted herbs. Seasonal game is a popular offering in upmarket restaurants, as is their own regional variety of meat stew or gulasch. Pastries and desserts are extremely popular, namely apfelstrudel, a cinnamon flavoured apple-tart and sachertorte and apricot-filled, chocolate gateau served with cream. European café culture supposedly has its origins in modern-day Austria and coffee houses abound in Salzburg.
What’s the nightlife like?
Salzburg is famed for its history, architecture, as the birthplace of Mozart, but certainly not for its nightlife. Don’t expect to party ‘til dawn here! The more mainstream bars and clubs are typical of a provincial town and certainly not worth the effort. Instead, soak up the old city’s unique charm and ambience. The main attraction is the traditional inns that dot the city, many having changed very little in over a hundred years. The narrow lanes around the Rudolfskai and Gstättengasse areas are home to many of the city’s best bars, and likewise the Linzergasse area on the opposite side of the river. If you happen to be in Salzburg during the warm summer months, why not join the hordes of students partying on the banks of the Salzach river near the Lehenerbrücke bridge? It’s a great place to mingle with the laid-back locals.
Why should I go?
Salzburg is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. On its doorstep are the towering Alps and the epic lakeland landscape of the Salzkammergut region. Arrive in winter to ski and experience the wonderland delights of the snow-covered cobble streets and lively Christmas markets. In summer, the city bustles with throngs of tourists. Many are aficionados of the cult movie The Sound Of Music, which was filmed in Salzburg and the surrounding countryside in the mid-‘60s. The historic Baroque town centre is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site and contains many amazing examples of period architecture. The month-long music festival, hosted in honour of its most famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, makes Salzburg an important destination for fans of classical music.
What are the touristy things to do?
Salzburg is jam-packed with many perfectly preserved examples of Baroque architecture. Hohensalzburg Fortress dominates the skyline, sitting atop a mountain overlooking the old town. It’s generally regarded as Europe’s most impressive fortification. Its origins date back to the eleventh century and its storied history reflects that of Salzburg. The seventh century Benedictine St. Peter’s Abbey is one of the world’s oldest active monasteries and is immaculately preserved. The sumptuous Baroque masterpiece of Hellbrunn Palace is another must-see. Its ornate gardens, full of fountains, statues and sculptures were built for entertaining visiting royalty in bygone days. The Mirabell Palace is an equally impressive Baroque estate, famed for its pristine gardens and elaborate fountains. It’s also a major hit with busloads of Sound Of Music fans, eager to visit sites immortalised in some of the film’s most famous scenes. Mozart’s residence is a fascinating if often overcrowded window into the life of one of music’s true geniuses. Salzburg is a history buff‘s heaven!
Anything else?
A little further afield, across the border into Germany, is the location for Hitler’s infamous Eagle’s Nest hideout in Berchtesgaden. Aside from the escape tunnels, little of the original living-quarters remain. However, the excellent interpretative centre offers a fascinating insight into the terrifying mastermind of the Third Reich.
Anything to avoid?
Unless you’re a huge fan of classical music and possess a bulging wallet, avoid Salzburg in August! The city is thronged for the internationally renowned Salzburg Festival and prices for accommodation and other activities sky-rocket. It’s also difficult to enjoy the city’s Baroque delights when it’s so overcrowded.
What should I bring home?
A nice bottle of locally-distilled schnapps is certainly hard to beat, or maybe some fetching lederhosen? Many flavours of schnapps are available and a bottle certainly makes a good value, authentic gift. The picturesque Getreidegasse area is home to numerous traditional craft shops. Handmade wooden toys are certainly a beautiful present and a lasting memory of your visit to the old city.
When should I go?
Spring and early summer are the ideal times to visit Salzburg. The swarms have yet to descend for the summer festivals and the intense heat of July and August has yet to arrive. The queues for attractions are non-existent and the entire city feels relaxed. Bliss.
What’s my challenge?
Soak up the unique atmosphere of the city dubbed the ‘Rome of the North’. Walk the old cobbled streets, visit the amazing period architecture and unwind in one of the city’s many ornate coffee-houses or period beer halls. A short-trip from the city centre takes you to the stunning lakelands of the Salzkammergut. Here picture-postcard villages sit perched against pristine lakes, with the Alps rising in the background.
What’s the currency?
The euro.
Something to remember...
The overkill of Mozart and Sound Of Music kitsch can certainly become tiresome. When fatigue sets in, why not escape to the nearby mountains and experience the relaxing magic of a hot spring bath? Sitting in a mineral rich pool, atop a mountain – what could be more relaxing?