12 Step Planet: Rotterdam

Where exactly is it?
Rotterdam is the second-largest city in the Netherlands, in the province of South Holland. It was founded as a dam on the Rotte River in 1270, and has since grown into a major international commercial centre with one of the largest ports in the world. It is often called the ‘Gateway to Europe’.

How do I get there?
Aer Lingus fly from Dublin and Cork to Amsterdam’s Schipol Airport daily. From there, it’s a one-hour train journey into the centre of Rotterdam. Meanwhile Ryanair operate a daily service from Dublin to Eindhoven airport in the south of the Netherlands, about 80 kilometers from Rotterdam. From here it’s a one-hour bus ride.

What language do they speak?
Dutch is the national language and a famously difficult one to get to grips with. Luckily the natives are aware of this and are happy to speak English. Rotterdam is a very culturally diverse city. Nearly half the population are of non-Dutch origin. English is a widely spoken second language. In the shops, restaurants, pubs, and museums it’s a requirement that staff speak both English and Dutch. As a tourist it’s easy to get by without speaking Dutch.

What’s the currency?
As in Ireland, the local currency is the Euro (€).

What is the local beer like?
There’s no shortage of varieties of beer in Rotterdam, and there are many pubs dedicated to world beers. The art of pouring the perfect pint is taken seriously: you’ll notice they always use a wet glass and then, after it’s poured, swipe the top with a knife, a trick that perserves the head for longer and prevents it from going flat. There are two local beers: Heineken and Hertog Jan, a tastey blonde beer brewed in Arcen. They generally don’t serve it by the pint and a glass will cost €2 or €3. Like in Ireland, there's a rapidly expanding craft beer industry with La Trappe, Christoffel, Texelses and Jopen a few of the artisan brews to look out for.

Other drinks?
Aside from the local beer you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to international beers. There’s a particularly large Belgian selection. They also have a delicious Rose Beer; a fruity pink beer that goes down particularly well with the ladies. Jägermeister is a popular drink with the Dutch. You’ll find it on tap in most pubs and only €2 per shot.

What is the transport like?
There’s an excellent transport system in Rotterdam, with trams, buses, trains, and an underground metro service. It’s so easy to get around. Even in the depths of winter when snow blankets the city, the trains still run like clockwork and are always on time. The same with the trams and buses, the best way to get around the city itself. Just get yourself a travel card at Rotterdam Centraal (the train station) on arrival and once you’ve topped up it can be used on all public transport. Just swipe when you’re getting on and off.

What’s the food like?
Rotterdam’s international character brings a plethora of affordable ethnic options. The lively Witte De Withstraat area brims with Chinese restaurants of a very high standard. On the same street, the Middle Eastern restaurant Bazar is worth a visit. Filled with luxurious Arabic decor, hundreds of beaded lamps and colourful cushioned seats, it’s like dining in Aladdin’s cave. The food is a mix of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern: kebabs, pizzas, falafel, halal meats and vegetarian dishes. They also offer delicious desserts and cocktails. If you’re a steak lover, one thing you’ll miss in Rotterdam is a good rib-eye! They do make up for it with their delicious spare ribs however. They’re a delicacy of sorts in Holland and most restaurants will have them on the menu, often with an all-you-can-eat challenge! You'll also find a wide range of Indonesian restaurants specialising in rijstaffel, sweet and spicy tapas-sized dishes that are the Dutch equivalent of "going for an Indian".

What’s the nightlife like?
The expression goes: “Amsterdam to party, The Hague to live, and Rotterdam to work”. That is certainly not the case as far as the nightlife’s concerned. The people of Rotterdam work hard but play even harder. The city comes alive at night, and many of the pubs don’t close their doors until the last patron makes their (staggered) exit. Two Irish pubs are worth visiting: O’Sheas on the Lijnbaan and Paddy Murphy’s in the Roezand area. During the week the latter is a student hotspot, particularly on Monday nights for bingo. I kid you not. Rotterdam has several universities and is crammed with students during college term. There’s live music seven nights a week so if you’re looking for a busy pub, this is the place to go. Also, the adjoining sports bar screens GAA as well as international soccer and rugby. Jazz fans will love the Vagabond, a smoky old-school club in the heart of the city. Rotown on the Nieuwe Binnenweg is the main music venue and hosts both international acts and up-and-coming artists all weekend. You have a vast choice of nightclubs and disco bars too, most of which are clustered around the main shopping area, the Lijnbaan.

Why should I go?
If you’re looking for a true Dutch experience but want to avoid the tourist traps of Amsterdam, Rotterdam is a nice alternative. It still offers all the same attractions as the former but it’s not as expensive and more laidback.

What are the touristy things to do?
The cube houses on Overblaak St. are a surreal sight! They’re a cluster of small dwellings tilted to a 45 degree angle up on a height. Designed by the Dutch architect Piet Blom, they are intended to represent a village within a city. Each yellow house is supposed to be a tree. Together they make a forest. One enterprising resident decided to open his home as a “show cube” where you can go inside for a look around for just €1! That’s not the only example of modern architecture you will see in the city. In World War II Rotterdam was almost completely destroyed during a German invasion. Several bombs were dropped, wrecking buildings and leaving 80,000 homeless. You can find circular red spotlights dotted around the city that mark where the bombs hit. Rotterdam was gradually rebuilt from the ‘50s to the ‘70s. For this reason, the city is strikingly modern compared to the quaint Amsterdam.

Anything else?
The beautiful little town of Delft is only a 15-minute train journey and well worth a visit. A picture-postcard Dutch town with neat rows of canals and attractive arched bridges it’s an ideal place to walk around and take in a more authentic side of the Netherlands. It’s particularly attractive in winter as the snow falls and turns it into a fairytale setting that wouldn’t be out of place in a 19th century novel. Delft is also home to members of the Dutch royal family, the House of Orange-Nassau and specialises in pottery-making.

Anything to avoid?
If you’re getting a taxi, be aware of the route you’re taking. It’s a common occurrence that taxi drivers take longer routes when they have tourists in the car in order to increase their fare. Also while the city centre is quite safe, avoid strolling into the quieter areas on the outskirts alone, particularly in the south side of the city over the Erasmus Bridge. There have been attacks and muggings late at night, usually drug-related. Steer clear of these areas and you should have no problem.

What should I bring home?
There is an enormous open-air market near the cube houses at Binnenrotte every Tuesday and Saturday. Here you’ll find everything from the finest cheese, fish, meats, and vegetables fresh from Holland’s many greenhouses to furniture, flowers, clothing and those infamous Dutch clogs. Make sure you swing by for excellent gifts and souvenirs. It’s also an opportunity to absorb some culture; the locals descend on this market from the early morning to find bargains and socialise. So there’s always a great atmosphere.

When should I go?
While Rotterdam is picturesque in the winter, there’s a lot more happening in the summer months. There are plenty of open-air festivals and celebrations in the city.

What’s my challenge?
Like Amsterdam, you’ll see a number of ‘coffee shops’ speckled around the city centre. If you are so inclined to test the local produce, be careful. Apparently the use of marijuana can somewhat impair spacial awareness. You could end up walking in front of a tram or stumbling into the bike lane, of which Rotterdam has many! Be safe!