12 Step Planet : Montreal

Where exactly is it?
Montreal, the second largest city in Canada, is located in southern Quebec only 70 kilometres from the US border. It has a population of 1.6 million and is situated on Montreal Island, at the convergence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence rivers.
How do I get there?
Air Transat offers excellently priced direct flights from Dublin, while KLM schedules a daily service to Trudeau International Airport during peak periods.
What language do they speak?
The official and most widely spoken language in the State of Quebec is French. Montreal is no different, with Français the chosen first language of over sixty percent of the population. This makes Montreal and its urban hinterland the second largest French speaking cosmopolitan area in the world, second only to Paris! English is also widely spoken, although the natives greatly appreciate any attempt, however pathetic, to assimilate!
What is the local beer like?
Beer connoisseurs are in for a treat in Montreal! Quebec breweries are heavily influenced by both the style and methods of their French and Belgian forefathers. Seventeenth century settlers from Normandy began the brewing tradition, later industrialised by the famed English entrepreneur John Molson. The 10-day Mondiale de la Bière Festival, held every June, showcases the best of both home-produced and imported beers. Montreal is also home to a wide variety of excellent micro-breweries. It’s well worth looking beyond the old reliables of Molson and Labatts.
Other drinks?
Not surprisingly, the French influence has instilled in the Québécoises an appreciation for wine. There are a number of significant wineries in the region, which specialise mostly in dry varieties. The locally produced whiskies are well worth sampling. Also, we should point out the legal drinking age in Quebec is 18, hence the city’s popularity amongst swarms of youthful Americans!
What is the transport like?
Avoid travelling by car in Montreal! The city has a particular problem with traffic congestion, mainly due to the width of the St. Lawrence river and the massive expense associated with building bridges over its expanse. The Société de Transport de Montréal operates an excellent subway network, plus an extensive city bus service. The metro stations alone are worth a look, with each boasting a unique visual theme and all designed by celebrated architects.
What’s the food like?
The local specialities are heavily influenced by both French and Jewish traditions. Amongst the favourites are tourtière, a tasty minced-meat pie, and the heart attack inducing poutine, essentially chips topped with both cheese and gravy! The city is also famed for foods popularised by Jewish settlers, including smoked beef and bagels. For an instant sugar-hit, try a Montreal sugar pie. This calorie-rich slice of decadence is made from butter, vanilla, flour and sugar, topped off with maple syrup!
What’s the nightlife like?
Montreal originally developed a name for wild partying during the days of US Prohibition. The city offers an endless array of hopping nightclubs, music bars and venues. For boisterous, packed clubs offering everything from chart music to house, head to St. Denis Street, where a modest cover charge is the norm. Be warned, many of Montreal’s most popular haunts have a dress code. So ditch the jeans and runners in favour of a more ‘smart casual’ look. The pubs along Bishop and Crescent Street shake to the sound of rock and blues most nights of the week. And let’s not forget jazz. The city comes to a virtual standstill during the world renowned Montreal Jazz Festival, which draws over 2.5 million visitors to the city over 10 days in July! There really is something for just about every taste.
Why should I go?
Montreal is undoubtedly one of the most vibrant cities in the world. It’s far from France, but the ‘joie-de-vivre’ is alive and kicking! The city is a haven for artistic expression and boasts a summer cultural calendar simply unrivalled anywhere else on the planet. As well as the world’s largest Jazz Fest, Montreal is also home to the Just For Laughs Comedy Festival, also the biggest of its kind. For fans of the silver screen there’s the Montreal World Film Festival whilst Canada’s burgeoning crop of indie bands get an airing at the city-wide Pop Montreal Festival, held each September. For something a little more refined, check out the programme of the Montreal Symphony Orchestra. Prepare to be charmed by a laidback metropolis that turns into a free-spirited party town by night.
What are the touristy things to do?
The historic quarter of Old Montreal is a must for all tourists. Its charming 17th century architecture and cobbled streets make it the most perfectly preserved European settlement in all of North America. Science boffins, for their part, should prepare to be wowed by the Biodome, which houses a series of wildlife ecosystems indoors! Originally a cycling velodrome for the Olympics, it’s now home to everything from reptiles of the South American rainforest to Arctic mammals. While you’re in the area, check out the gigantic Olympic Stadium. The space-aged structure was built for the ’76 Olympiad but is currently unoccupied and viewed locally as a white elephant. If you’re eager to practice your pidgin French or simply pick up a trinket, head to the bustling Jean-Talon Farmers’ Market in the Little Italy district. Sports fans are equally spoilt for choice. Ice hockey is the big one in Quebec and Montreal Canadiens are the team of choice. Head along to the Bell Centre to experience a truly Canadian obsession.
Anything to avoid?
If you’re not interesting in partying ‘til the sun rises then don’t plan on staying long in Montreal. Whilst the city boasts beautiful architecture and cultural activities, it’s primarily concerned with maintaining its position as North America’s number one party destination. Give the scandalously overpriced restaurants in Old Montreal a wide berth. There are plenty of superior and reasonably priced options elsewhere. Also, don’t buy exotically packaged maple syrup in a cutesy souvenir shop. Pick it up for a fraction in any city supermarket.
What should I bring home?
Dedicated followers of fashion will simply drool at the amount of vintage clothing shops housed around Boulevard St. Laurent. The prices are reasonable and the variety of stock mind-boggling. For lovers of Canadian indie, Montreal is something of a vinyl paradise. There are rare pressings and concert bootlegs by everyone from The Acorn to Wolf Parade and, of course, local heroes Arcade Fire.
When should I go?
It all depends on what floats your boat. The May to September high season guarantees warm, pleasant weather and a continuous stream of festivals and cultural activities. However, things can get rather pricey as literally millions descend on the Old City. An attractive alternative is during the frozen winter months when the city’s public spaces are transformed into arenas for ice-skating, skiing and tobogganing! Equally beautiful and much easier on the
pocket.
What’s my challenge?
Lose yourself in the unique atmosphere of Canada’s second city. Wander the beautiful streets of the Old City, recognised by UNESCO as an area of outstanding architecture and design. Why not rent a bike and weave your way through the city’s many distinctive neighbourhoods, including Chinatown, Little Italy and the groundbreaking Gay Village, located in the St. Catherine street area. After dark, throw on those gladrags and experience some of Montreal’s world famous nightlife. From folk clubs to black metal, this city’s got it all.
What’s the currency?
The Canadian Dollar (CAD$).
Something to remember...
Montreal has a seedy underbelly. Prostitution is, by law, something of a grey area, leaving it wide open for corruption. A high percentage of the city’s prostitutes are heroin and cocaine addicts, often forced to work under tough conditions. Nevertheless, the hordes of tourists ensure that Montreal’s vice underworld will always have a future.