12 Step Planet : Malaysia

Where exactly is it?
Southeast Asia. Malaysia is divided into two distinct sections. Peninsular Malaysia shares a border with southern Thailand. Malaysian Borneo is separated from the mainland by the South China Sea. Malaysian Borneo accounts for approximately one-quarter of the island’s land mass: the rest belongs to Indonesia.
How do I get there?
The capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), is a major commercial centre. It is easily accessible from a number of European airports. KLM offers excellent year-round value fares from Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. And BMI has a competitively priced service from London Heathrow.
What language do they speak?
The official language is Bahasa Malaysia. English is commonly used in business and widely taught in schools. There’s also a peculiar slang composite of English and Malay/Tamil called Manglish. Over 130 languages are currently spoken throughout the country, amongst them Mandarin, Cantonese, Tamil and a myriad of localised tribal dialects.
What is the local beer like?
Malaysia is an Islamic country. Certain states have a total ban on alcohol sales. However, in major urban areas, beer and spirits are widely available from licensed premises. Beware – prices are often steep! The most popular brands are the internationally renowned Tiger Beer (brewed in both Singapore and Malaysia) and the smooth and refreshing Chang.
Other drinks?
In the East Malaysian state of Sarawak, a homemade fermented rice drink called Tuak is widely available. It’s served at gatherings and celebrations and varies in alcohol strength. Watch out – its alcohol content can often exceed 50 percent!
What is the transport like?
The arrival of AirAsia has made long distance travel within Malaysia very affordable. Distant Borneo is now only a few hours away. AirAsia schedule daily flights to Kuching in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in the remote state of Sabah. Road conditions are excellent, with Peninsular Malaysia boasting a fine network of highways from Singapore in the south, right up to the Thai border. Train travel is inexpensive and reliable, if a little slow.
What’s the food like?
Malaysian cuisine is generally excellent. A combination of Malay, Indian and Chinese traditions, it offers a wide variety and diversity of dishes. Wholesome Malay curries, such as the stewed meat Rendang, are widely available; succulent skewered beef Satay is always a safe and tasty bet. Laksa is a classic signature dish based on a noodle and coconut curry soup to which seafood or meat may be added.
What’s the nightlife like?
If hitting the tiles is a major priority on holiday, give Malaysia a wide berth. Kuala Lumpur has a growing pub/club scene, which largely caters to the city’s flash nouveau-riche kids. Muslims are forbidden from consuming alcohol, facing stiff penalties if caught. ‘Mixing with the locals’ doesn’t really happen. The government has recently taken a more hard-line attitude to the subject, banning Muslims, who account for 60 percent of the population, from a Black Eyed Peas concert in Kuala Lumpur. Why? The concert was organised by Guinness! Recently, beach bars in the tropical paradise of the Perhentian islands have been forced to shut by rising conservatism.
Why should I go?
Malaysia is an extremely diverse country, culturally and geographically. Peninsular Malaysia is a melting pot of traditions, ranging from the super-modern metropolis of Kuala Lumpur to the rugged natural beauty of the Cameron Highlands and Penang’s refined colonial heritage. The Perhentian islands are amongst the world’s most beautiful, a picture postcard setting of white sandy beaches and azure blue waters. However, Malaysian Borneo is the star attraction, a treasure trove of unspoilt tropical rainforests and indigenous flora and fauna.
What are the touristy things to do?
The remote Bornean state of Sabah is manna for those of an adventurous disposition. The Semporna archipelago boasts some of the planet’s best wildlife diving with whales, manta rays and turtles aplenty. Elsewhere, rafting the Sungai Padas rapids is a once in a lifetime experience, and a dawn boat ride along the forested Kinabatangan River offers a unique opportunity to spot the endangered orang-utan and pygmy elephants in their natural environment. The Kelabit highlands of Sarawak are home to many ethnic tribes, where living in stilted longhouses is still common. The Perhentian islands are a slice of utopia while Endau-Rompin National Park, within striking distance of KL, is home to Sumatran rhinos, tapirs, tigers and leopards, living amongst the thick jungle.
Anything else?
Malaysian Borneo is home to some of the world’s most beautiful wildlife, much of it critically endangered. The orang-utan, one of the world’s most intelligent primates, is threatened by both logging and poaching for the illegal pet trade. A number of conservation centres in both Sarawak and Sabah are engaged in heroic efforts to save the orang-utan from extinction. Rather than blowing all that hard-earned cash in an overpriced KL nightclub, make a gratefully received donation.
Anything to avoid?
Only use your credit card in reputable shops/hotels. Malaysia has a relatively low crime rate, but card fraud has become widespread in recent years.
What should I bring home?
Instead of buying the usual tat, why not play your part in preserving one of nature’s great species? Malaysian conservation centres offer ‘adopt an orang-utan’ programmes that help maintain critical numbers. For a reasonable fee, you will receive regular updates on your adopted primate’s progress and help preserve their natural habitat.
When should I go?
There are two peak tourist seasons in Malaysia, from December to January and July to September. These periods are extremely busy and it’s best to book far in advance. However, depending on what you want to see/do, Malaysia is a 12 month destination, with static year-round temperatures.
What’s my challenge?
If time isn’t on your side, chose only one centre for this trip, and escape from reality to the remote jungles of Borneo. Experience the timeless beauty of the rainforest and its many ancient inhabitants. Meet the Dayak tribal people and sample their unique river culture and life on stilt longhouses. Sample the culinary delights of Sarawak, prepared from organic local produce and come face to face with the world’s largest caves in Gunung Mulu National Park.
What’s the currency?
The Malaysian Ringgit (MYR).
Something to remember...
Malaysia boasts an expanding economy, currently ranked in the world’s top 25. It recovered quickly from the 1997 Asian financial crisis, built on exports of large quantities of petroleum, tin and palm oil. However, financial gain has come at a huge cost. Malaysian palm oil is cultivated on plantations, created by the deforestation of vast areas of native rainforest. This leaves the Malaysian government with a difficult conundrum. Do they continue to support the palm oil industry’s development or safeguard the natural environment? Supporting ethical tourism will help Malaysian authorities to make the right decision.