12 Step Planet: Madrid

Where exactly is it?
Madrid is in the heart of Spain, surrounded by the arid Castilian plateau. The Romans began the first noticeable settlement by the banks of the Manzanares River in the second century BC. Geographically, it lies to the north-east of the centre of the Iberian Peninsula and has a population of approximately 3.5 million with a further three million living in the suburban metro region.
How do I get there?
The best options are to fly from Dublin to Madrid’s Barajas Airport with either Aer Lingus or Ryanair. Flight time is approximately two and a half hours. There’s plenty of flexibility, with flights departing every day of the week to the Spanish capital.
What language do they speak?
No prizes for guessing the spoken language is Spanish, or more specifically, the regional dialect Castilian. An increasing number of the younger population, especially those employed in the service and tourist industries, speak conversational English, French and Italian. There are also small communities of Basque and Catalan speakers.
What is the local beer like?
Spanish beer is best served cold, especially in the searing heat of a Castilian summer! There are a number of perfectly acceptable mainstream brands and lager, as in most of Europe, is king. Amongst the best are Damm Estrella, Cruzcampo, San Miguel and popular local favourite Mahou. The craft-beer revolution is just beginning to hit Iberia and a number of interesting brands and brewpubs have appeared in recent years. At the moment, the Fábrica Maravillas brewpub is leading the charge, serving a variety of quirky concoctions and accompanying taster plates.
Other drinks?
Many visitors from these shores are familiar with that ultimate party-starter concoction of wine, fruit and brandy which is sangria. Served by the jug and often toe-curlingly strong, sangria is hard to resist! On a subtler note, one of the real treats of visiting Madrid is sampling the wonderful brandy. From the southern region of Andalusia, Brandy de Jerez is amongst the world’s best and can be sipped neat or enjoyed with black coffee. This is a local post-meal staple. Of course, there’s also an impressive array of Spanish wines, Rioja being the most famous. There are many other varieties from the country’s numerous wine regions. No visit is complete without sipping sherry after a hearty meal. Distilled in the southern town of Jerez de la Frontera, sherry is possibly the most distinctively Spanish alcoholic beverage.
What is the transport like?
Madrid has the most comprehensive transport network in the entire Iberian Peninsula. There are almost 300km of track servicing the city and suburban areas, with a further 400km of commuter rail reaching out to the expanding conurbation. In Spain, all roads lead to Madrid and the city is serviced by four motorways, linking the capital to all corners of the country. There are bus stops on every street corner and great value integrated ticket options available for visitors. Onward travel is a doddle with two huge national rail hubs situated in the north and south of the city. High-speed trains link Madrid to all the country’s key cities and journey times even for the longest trips rarely exceed four hours!
What’s the food like?
As with most of Spain, the quality of food on offer is worth the trip alone! Unsurprisingly, the variety of seafood delicacies in landlocked Madrid may not be a match for Valencia or Barcelona, However, there are plenty of other amazing offerings to tickle the taste buds!
Who can resist tapas? Sample bite-sized plates from the dizzying selection of regional delicacies available, washed down with a glass of Rioja. Always popular is the classic meat or seafood and rice dish native to Valencia known as paella or gazpacho, a chilled tomato-based soup. Jamón serrano or jamón ibérico (Cured ham) or chorizo sausage are hugely popular and can often be seen dangling invitingly from the ceiling of restaurants and bars. A sumptuous dish native to Madrid is cocido madrileño, a hearty meat, mixed vegetables and chickpea stew. The Spanish are massive consumers of both meat and seafood and portion sizes are always generous. Unlike Ireland, where taking time to eat is often treated as an imposition on a busy schedule, Spanish people hold mealtimes extremely dear. Whenever possible, they come together in the afternoon for siesta to eat, chat and rest before returning to work in the late afternoon in no great hurry.
What’s the nightlife like?
Whilst its Catalan rival Barcelona is globally famed for a bustling nightlife, Madrid is more than a match. The Spanish are serious night-owls and Madrid is no different. The city springs to life after midnight when the cooler air entices the crowds in their throngs. It’s something of a culture shock initially; socialising requires the adoption of the local pace. Dinner normally begins anytime from 10pm, followed by coffee and then onwards to a bar for drinks as the night slowly begins to wind up. Clubs don’t really see any action before 2am and continue right through until dawn, when it’s common for people to grab some food before making their way home. Madrid has its mega-clubs such as Space & Sound and Fabrik, However, they’re simply the tip of the iceberg. Barrio de Salamanca is awash with trendy pubs and cafés, while those seeking a more alternative atmosphere should head to Lavapiés, home to rock bars and the lefty student population. It’s a big place and it really has it all from cocktail bars to terrace bars, jazz and blues venues, techno clubs and one of Europe’s hippest gay districts, Chueca. It’s impossible not to get swept away in the excitement of la noche.
Why should I go?
Madrid is a feast for the senses. It’s a city that wears its passions on its sleeve, from food and fine wine to music and the arts. All of the country’s wonderful culinary traditions converge in Madrid, making it one of the cuisine capitals of the world. Art lovers are spoilt for choice, especially the collection housed in the Museo del Prado and the mixture of architectural styles mirroring its rich history are a joy to behold. Phenomenal nightlife, sporting passion and a family-centred social structure. The Madrileños work to live and not the other way round!
What are the touristy things to do?
Unlike many other European capitals, Madrid doesn’t have an iconic building, such as an Eiffel Tower or Big Ben, to hang its tourist hat on. Nevertheless, sight-seekers can engorge themselves on hundreds of years of Spanish literary, art and cultural history. No visit to Madrid is complete without a visit to the iconic Prado Art Musuem. The vast collection includes works by famed Spanish artists including Goya and Diego Velázquez, plus iconic pieces by Titian, Rubens and Hieronymus Bosch, amongst many others. The imposing Royal Palace, Europe’s largest, is an arresting sight and some of Spain’s most architecturally stunning plazas are located here, namely the Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor. Sport is central to life in Madrid and the city can boast two of the world’s most iconic stadia. The gigantic Santiago Bernabeu, home to ‘Los Blancos’, that’s Real Madrid to you and me, is worth a visit, especially for one of European soccer’s greatest occasions, when Real host the Catalan upstarts Barcelona in El Clásico. Personally, I’m no fan of bullfighting, but if you can stomach this questionable ‘cultural’ activity, the only place to go is the colosseum-like Las Ventas where regular packed events are held throughout the season.
Anything else?
An hour’s drive south of Madrid sits the UNESCO World Heritage Site city of Toledo. The ‘Imperial City’, once the court of Charles I, is well worth the trip and contains relics from Roman times right up to the ‘Golden Age’ of the Spanish Court. The Alcázar, a stone fortification located at the city’s highest point, dominates the skyline and has been the site of many milestones in the country’s history, from the Spanish Civil War to the return of the ‘Conquistadores’ from their violent conquests in the Americas.
Anything to avoid?
Beware of cheap imitations of the real thing! Some hotels advertise authentic Flamenco nights, which are over-packed, over-priced magnets for tourists looking to catch a glimpse of this magical concoction of rhythmic guitar, passion-filled singing and expressive dance. Flamenco’s natural home is Andalucia, so if you’ve any plans for onward travel, wait until Sevilla or Granada to sample its splendour in full-flow.
What should I bring home?
Leather goods are a huge deal in Madrid. Everything is available from shoes to handbags in both traditional and contemporary styles. Another great gift is the stigma from the flower, Crocus Sativus, better known as saffron. This hugely expensive spice, sold in tiny amounts, gives paella its distinctive colour and subtle flavour.
When should I go?
There’s never a bad time to visit majestic Madrid! However, during summer the mercury occasionally hits the rather stifling 40-degree mark, This brings city life to a virtual standstill for the months of July and August. May and October are the ideal periods to sample Madrid’s unique atmosphere.
What’s my challenge?
Immerse yourself in a culture centred on family values and the good life. Enjoy a relaxed, less hurried pace.