12 Step Planet: Les Trois Vallee

Where exactly is it?
Les Trois Vallees – AKA The Three Valleys – is the largest linked ski area in the world. It’s in the French Alps, boasts 600km of slopes and nearly 200 ski-lifts. It incorporates the Saint-Bon valley (resorts located at altitudes between 1.300 and 1.850 metres), the Les Allues valley (home to the Meribel and Mottaret resorts) and, finally, the Belleville valley. Here you will find Val Thorens, the highest ski resort in Europe.

How do I get there?
The French Alps is served by four main airports: Chambery, Lyon, Geneva and Grenoble. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Geneva and Lyon; Jet2 flies Belfast to Geneva. Pick-ups and transfers are available from the airport to your resort. They can be booked as part of your package deal.
What language do they speak?
French is the official language. However, given the large number of English-speaking holiday companies, English is widely used and understood. It’s becoming increasingly commonplace to see signposts in Russian as elite resorts such as Courchevel attract Moscow’s super rich.
What’s the local beer like?
Regardless of how hardcore a skier you are, come a certain hour in the evening you’re hanging for a pint. Jugs of German Paulaner and Danish Ceres are popular with locals. However, the one to try is Mutzig, a beer institution amongst the ‘seasonaire’ crowd. Brewed in Alsace province, there are two types of Mutzig: the regular and the more potent Mutzig Old Lager. Wisely, many order ‘demis’ – a glass – over pints. As is the case with everything else at altitude, beer is more expensive than you may be used to. Wine is often the cheaper option.
What is the transport like?
Most holiday operators will provide transport to and from the airport and your accommodation. This is often the easiest option. There is also the high-speed train network, TGV, that connects with the town of Moutiers at the foot of The Three Valleys. From there you can catch the Altibus or the Three Valley Transfers Taxi to your resort. A free shuttle links the different resorts within the Courchevel valley. With a Three Valley lift pass, people can ski between the various resorts during the day. However holidaymakers tend to stick to their chosen location for nighttime antics. Taxis are not always available and are usually expensive.
What is the food like?
Hearty, simple fare involving melted cheese, charcuterie, potatoes and bread are local staples. Dishes such as tartiflette (potato and melted cheese casserole), gratin dauphinois (potato gratin), raclette (melted cheese, pork, ham, salami, potatoes and salad) and, of course, cheese fondue, where you dunk cubes of bread into a bowl of melted cheese, are de rigueur. It’s all about comforting stodge here. Just beware the cheese-sweats!
What is the nightlife like?
Each night there are lots of beery hi-jinks, often accompanied by one of the many aprés-ski bands plying their wares. Be careful not to overindulge, as alcohol and high altitude do not go together.
Why should I go?
A Three Valleys ski pass secures access to 330 downhill pistes, 120km cross-country skiing tracks, 183 ski-lifts, death-defying snow parks and off-piste skiing as well as ‘mogul’ runs and freestyle skiing. With altitudes up to 3,600m above sea level, ski-in/ski-out accommodation offers countless eating/drinking options, The Three Valleys has it pretty much sewn up for the ski-crazed among us.
What are the touristy things
to do?
Besides skiing, The Three Valleys has a range of less extreme but equally thrilling activities. Choose between helicopter tours, husky-sledding, glacier walking, hot air ballooning, winter walking trails, paragliding, snowshoe walking and cross country skiing. If this all seems a little too energetic and ‘outdoorsy’, try soaking up the atmosphere over a vin chaud on a sunny balcony. Or you could shop in the exclusive boutiques of Courchevel 1850 or have yourself a pamper and relaxation day in one of the picture-perfect chalet spa hotels.
Anything else?
For first-time skiers and snowboarders, renting gear from a hire company in a resort is a lot cheaper than splurging on skis, snowboards and boots. You can do so easily online before your holiday. No need to buy expensive clothing if you’re starting out: TK Maxx is a great one-stop shop for jackets, pants, thermals and goggles. Don’t forget the sunscreen!
What should I bring home?
Chartreuse – a French herbal liqueur made by the Carthusian monks for centuries, snow domes, a goggle tan.
When should I go?
School midterm and Christmas/New Year are the busiest weeks and usually the most expensive. Avoid if at all possible. January can be bitterly cold despite the layers of clothing and numerous hot chocolates consumed. March is typically a great month to go as the temperatures are a little higher, the snow conditions often perfect. Spring skiing is recommended, especially in loftier resorts such as Val Thorens, which at 2300m is the highest in Europe. Late season skiing means fewer on the slopes, longer daylight, cheaper deals and beers on sun-drenched decks.
What’s the currency?
The euro. If you are flying in/out of Geneva, remember Switzerland is not part of the European Union. Here the currency is the Swiss Franc.
Something to remember…
La Tania is something of a newcomer to the Three Valley resorts. Built 1,400m above sea level, it served as competitor accommodation for the 1992 Winter Olympics in Albertville. Located conveniently between Meribel and Courchevel, La Tania has been developed into a resort in its own right and offers a cheaper alternative to fancier neighbours.