12 Step Planet: Lecce

Why should I go?
Located in Puglia — the region on the heel of Italy's boot — Lecce is not often visited by tourists from outside of the Mediterranean. It's laid-back and sophisticated, catering to fantasies of what Italy should be. The city's beauty has earned it a reputation as the 'Florence of the South'. Architecture enthusiasts may have already heard of 'Lecce Baroque', an extravagant style that is unique to the area, making the most of the region's lime stone, which appears to absorb light so that the entire city glows pink at sunset. There are churches and monuments at every turn, and the exquisite intricacy of their design can be overwhelming. Oh, and their footie team US Lecce just made the leap from Serie B to Serie A, which means the likes of Inter, Juve and AC Milan will be coming to town next season.
Why should I not go?
Lecce is a university city. It's large, sophisticated and arty, and its cultural heritage is of huge importance to the impeccably groomed locals. This, in itself, could put you off. While there are a number of bars and nightclubs, you're unlikely to see anyone downing shots then falling off their shoes. Anyone wanting that kind of holiday should head to Bari, about 180 kilometres up the coast, which is Puglia's party capital.
What's my challenge?
The laid-back nature of the city can make it easy to spend the whole time lazing around in cafés, eating brioche and drinking cups of coffee so amazing that 18 months later you still wake up with cravings. Though completely enjoyable, this is to be avoided. The challenge is to make sure you don't just focus on food and drink, or visiting the nearby beaches – the Adriatic Sea is only 10km away. New visitors should take the opportunity to walk around the city centre, all the better to take in the fabulous architecture, sculptures and churches.
How do I get there?
It's a fiddly one before you're even in Italy. Ryanair flies from London Stansted to the port town of Brindisi for anything between €100 and €250 return, depending on when you book. From there you'll need to rent a car or bus it over to Lecce.
When should I go?
Summer is when the light best hits the city, though pale types should be warned that, even in May and September, temperatures are likely to be as high as 27ºC, peaking at 32ºC in July and August, so going at the height of Summer might knock you for six. A trip at the start or end of the season provides plenty of clear skies and sunshine, for sight-seeing, sunbathing, and hanging out in cafés.
What's the touristy thing to do?
The Church of the Holy Cross (Chiesa di Santa Croce), which took over 340 years to complete, is always worth marvelling at. Its façade includes animals, grotesque figures, vegetables, and a large rose window. It's probably the best example of Lecce Baroque. There's also the Duomo (Cathedral), said to be one of the most important in Italy. Since it was built in 1144, and restored in the 17th Century, the Duomo's 70 metre tall bell tower has also had occasion to double as a lighthouse. It's worth going to see at night, as the building, and surrounding piazza, are beautifully and atmospherically lit.
Anything else?
This being Italy, there's also a Roman amphitheatre, built in the 2nd Century and now half-hidden by other monuments that were built over it.
What should I avoid?
Ultra Lecce, the soccer club's notoriously violent hooligan fanbase, are men best kept happy. Discussing anything other than the club's recent promotion is not recommended.
How much to get tanked?
Not so much, with wine and a good range of beers being easy to get hold of at any of the small café bars around the city. The wine in particular will often have been produced locally, making it possible to get nicely wobbly for relatively little.
What about dining?
The city's heritage owes as much to its Greek founders as its Italian contemporaries, and this can be seen in the local cuisine. The food is great, and the range of restaurants means that you don't have to spend a lot to eat very well. It's also worth buying food, particularly lunchtime fare such as foccacia and olives, from the bodegas in the city centre as, apart from being cheap, the produce can be delicious. No day in Italy should pass without at least one visit to a cafe, where you can practice your Italian on local workmen stopping by for an espresso.
Where should I stay?
If you're feeling flush, the luxurious surroundings of the 5-star Albergo Patria Palace Hotel (www.patriapalacelecce.com) should suit. Homelier places include the Antica Villa Viola, a beautiful old house that's been renovated as a B&B, and the B&B La Corte Lecce, a beautiful apartment in the city centre that can be rented by the night or the week.
What should I bring home?
At least 5 lbs of extra weight.