12 Step Planet: Lanzarote

Where exactly is it?
Lanzarote is the easternmost of the Canary Islands. It lies 125km off the coast of Africa in the Atlantic Ocean. The result of a series of volcanic eruptions, it has some truly spectacular scenery. With its unusual brown and red landscape it’s known as ‘Titerroygatra’ to the locals or, more simply, ‘the red mountains’.
How do I get there?
You can fly out from Dublin with Ryanair and Aer Lingus four to five times a week. Jet2holidays offer flights from Belfast International to Lanzarote’s Arrecife airport through the winter. From there, taxis and buses are available to take you to your chosen destination. A taxi to anywhere on the island shouldn’t cost more than €25. However, it’s a good idea to rent a car. It’s not expensive and once you get to grips with driving on the right side of the road it’s a great way to see Lanzarote at your own pace and comfort, especially if you want to go off that beaten tourist track.
What language do they speak?
They speak Spanish but the dialect is different to that of the mainland; they have a distinctive accent. For example, you may notice the locals pronounce ‘gracias’ (meaning ‘thank you’) differently to those in
mainland Spain.
What’s the beer like?
After a day soaking up the rays there’s nothing as refreshing as a cold beer and there are many to choose from! Dorada and San Miguel are the main ones found on the island. Dorada comes in three forms: Dorada Pilsen (normal lager), Dorada Especial (stronger) and Dorada Sin (alcohol free). It’s very fizzy with a strong taste, slightly stronger than the better-known San Miguel. A large bottle of San Miguel or Dorada in the supermarket will cost about €1 and cans are as little as 50c. In the pubs you could pay anything from €1.50 to €3.
Other drinks?
Cocktails of course! You can find some of the tastiest cocktails in Lanzarote, topped with umbrellas and sparklers and made with lashings of fresh fruit. Laola in Puerto Del Carmen has an extensive menu of tropical refreshments to choose from, the Strawberry Mojito in particular is worth tasting! If that wasn’t indulgent enough, you can also enjoy a shisha pipe and lie on a four-poster bed while looking out at the magnificent sea view. Bliss!
Lanzarote is an interesting wine-making region too. They’ve adopted unusual techniques to overcome the low rainfall and strong winds. Vines grow in a hole and are surrounded by semi-circular stone walls to protect it. ‘Bermejo’ is a delicious local wine, with the red variety being the most popular. It has a surprising taste, very fruity. Any of the local wines have a good reputation and are worth tasting.
What’s the transport like?
There are buses but they’re infrequent and will only take you to the main areas. Again, if you want to veer away from the touristy side of things and do a bit of exploring, a car with sat nav will be your best friend.
What’s the food like?
Lanzarote is home to some of the best seafood you can find. So throw caution to the wind and get stuck in! Head for one of the locals’ favourite paella hotspots, Donde Laura, on the beach at Playa Honda near Arrecife airport to taste the classic Spanish dish with delicious clams, mussels, shrimp, and calamari. Their potatoes topped with mojo picon sauces are another exquisite delicacy bursting with flavour. There’s a popular red fish called vieja that tastes especially good barbequed with a little salt and pepper.
If you’re after something meatier, check out Italian restaurant, Capri, in Puerto Del Carmen for mouth-watering steaks, creamy carbonarra, pizza with shrimp and banana (really!) and for dessert try another local favourite, the tiramisu.
What’s the nightlife like?
Lanzarote isn’t a clubbing hotspot. The main strip at Centro Atlantico is to be avoided like the plague unless you want to be accosted by countless reps trying to drag you into grotty pubs with the guarantee of cheap booze. Instead, do it like the locals. Hang on the beaches until 8 or 9 pm and then head out for a meal around 10 pm. You could be sitting in the restaurants until 12 or 1am. That’s where the best atmosphere is to be found.
There are some good pubs for after-dinner drinks: Laola for cocktails and Irish pubs The Harp and The Hawaiian Bar which both have a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices. You’ll often find live music in the former. However, Lanzarote isn’t as busy as it once was so don’t expect big crowds!
Why should I go?
Above all, for the weather! At the moment, it hasn’t rained in a year and half in Lanzarote and the temperatures stay high all year round. It’s the perfect place
to relax, unwind, eat good food, feel the sun on your bones and take in some Spanish culture.
What are the main tourist attractions?
Timanfaya National Park is a volcanic landscape that has barely changed since its eruption in the 1730s. It covers a quarter of the island’s surface and is the main tourist attraction in Lanzarote. The Montanas Del Fuego (or Fire Mountains) are located within this park and €8 will get you a bus tour of the volcanoes. Be warned, this tour isn’t for the faint-hearted! The bus swings around narrow roads with high drops on either side. Still, the sights from up there are incredible. After the tour, you can visit the Timanfaya restaurant with its panoramic views. Here the food is cooked from the underground heat, which reaches hundreds of degrees at just a few metres deep. You can also catch a glimpse of geysers springing from the ground, and after all that you can take a camel ride around the mountains.
The Green Lake in the village of El Golfo is another extraordinary sight. There’s a steep walk down a hill to overcome first but it’s worth it for the views. The lake lies between a pebbly beach, and a backdrop of black cliffs. The reason for its spectacular green colour is the rocks containing the mineral Olivine, and algae. El Golfo is a charming fishing village too with some excellent seafood restaurants speckled along the coast including Restaurante Lapa for great fresh fish. This area is popular with the locals, particularly at weekends.
Anything else?
Lanzarote has a number of beaches and a beautiful, rugged coastline to explore. Papagayo beaches are the most gorgeous of them all, located in the Playa Blanca area at the south of the island. You’ll have to drive over a few kilometres of rough terrain to get there and there’s a €3 entry charge but once your feet touch that sandy beach, it’s worth the journey. The clean, blue ocean stretches further than the eye can see. The beaches are surrounded by high, rocky cliffs and the sand is golden unlike a lot of the island which has black volcanic sand. Paradise!
Look out for ‘Calima’ too. It’s a dry dusty layer that sometimes lies like a cloud in the air over the island. It happens after a particularly windy spell. The sand comes in from the Sahara Desert and covers the sky. Locals joke that it’s because the camels are running in the desert, or that the African women are shaking out
their rugs.
Anything to avoid?
You do not know the wrath of the mosquito until you’ve felt her bite. Keep your doors and windows closed, particularly at night when they’re at their most blood-thirsty! While mozzy bites are usually harmless in this part of the world, they’re very uncomfortable, hot and itchy – not what you want when it’s over 30 degrees outside. Bring insect repellant and antihistamines with you.
There are strong winds too so beware of flying objects on the beach and bring an umbrella for shade. You don’t realise how much sun you’re getting as a result so keep the suncream topped up.
What should I bring home?
Avert your eyes from the hurdy-gurdy shops brimming with souvenirs; no, you really don’t need another fridge magnet! The Spanish have an interesting way of cooking. Head for the local markets and shops and get your hands on some local ham, olive oil and artichokes. Hiperdino is the main supermarket and the most reasonably priced one. Here you can pick up some good, authentic local produce. Of course it would be worth picking up some of that red wine too. Bring a big suitcase.
When should I go?
Aside from the lava spewing period between 1730 and 1736, there’s never a bad time. The weather is good all year around but in July and August temperatures soar and it may be too hot for our poor, pasty Irish skin. During early summer (May/June) or later in the year (September/October) it’s less humid and much more bearable.
What’s my challenge?
Take it easy! Lanzarote is a good place to get away from it all. Make an effort to try the local cuisine, see the sights, and most of all relax.
What’s the currency?
Euro.
Something to remember…
Factor 30 +.