12 Step Planet: La Paz

Where exactly is it?
La Ciudad de Nuestra Señora de la Paz (The City of Our Lady of Peace) sits on the Bolivian altiplano, the plateau where the Andes are at their widest. La Paz is the highest de facto capital in the world at nearly four miles above sea level. Arriving can be dizzying in more ways than one as the main route into town involves tipping over the cusp of the gorge and careering steeply into the city centre.
How do I get there?
There are direct routes to the Peruvian capital Lima from both Madrid and Paris with Iberia and Air France. From here it’s a short connecting flight to El Alto International Airport. Taking in La Paz is usually part of a bigger trip around South America because of its remote location.
What language do they speak?
Spanish is the official language of Bolivia but La Paz remains heavily influenced by Aymara and Incan culture and indebted to their languages. Lake Titicaca, three hours northwest of the capital, is the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. This means you should expect to hear some Quechua whilst rambling through the streets.
What’s the local beer like?
Pacena is the cerveza of choice. The beer is distilled locally, high above sea level and has a pale pallor considered to be a product of the purified water of the Andes. Don’t expect the perfect pour. The altitude means that sometimes there’s more foam than beer. Stronger brews are quite popular, the most potent being the curiously named Judas.
Other drinks?
Many locals steer clear of spirits due to the adverse effects of drinking heavily at high altitude. Instead there’s a huge local market in teas, especially when brewed with coca leaves. Coca leaves, whether sipped in tea or chewed, increases alertness and reduce hunger, cold, and pain. Perfect for a life lived at altitude. Bolivian President Evo Morales owes much of his popularity to his stance on coca farming. A former farmer himself, he has led a campaign to legalise coca-based by-products as a response to dealing with the production of cocaine.
What’s the transport like?
La Paz lacks an integrated public transport system, but there are regular bus routes nonetheless. The common method of getting around is to hop on a micro, a minibus rigged with as many seats as possible. Be ready to mingle with up to a dozen people, and maybe some local livestock. It’s not uncommon for vendors to carry their chickens on board.
What’s the food like?
Potatoes are popular and come in all shapes and sizes. If you’re feeling adventurous try llama steak or chew your way through a guinea pig casserole. Trout farmed in Lake Titcaca is also a local favourite. La Paz is famous for perfecting the Saltena, a small pastry filled with meat or vegetables. It’s best sourced from a trusted street vendor. For veggies, there’s the chance to try the fashionable protein quinoua, grown locally in the region outside of La Paz.
What’s the nightlife like?
There’s a distinct separation between gringos and locals when it comes to nightlife. Both the Wild Rover and Loki have a deserved reputation as party hostels and staying in either means you shouldn’t expect to sleep much. If you want to mingle with the local hipsters instead head downhill to the Sopocachi neighbourhood, where there’s a diverse mix of upmarket clubs and restaurants and the parties continue until sunrise.
Why should I go?
La Paz is easily one of the most strikingly beautiful places on earth. Built on the Rio Choqueyapu after the discovery of gold by Alonso De Mendoza in 1548, the city spread out and up the cliffs with the influx of thousands of campesinos, or rural workers, in the 20th century. Now streets spill down the mountain and into the main throughfare, known by locals as the Prado. Cheaply built high-rises creak perilously over the cusp of the canyon, while the posh neighborhoods spread out at the southern base of the city. On clear days the snow capped peak of Mt. Illamani looms in the background.
What are the touristy things to do?
In the satellite suburb of El Alto the streets swing to an Aymara beat. But among the traditional woollen sheets and the smell of trout stewing in pots a curious tradition has sprung. This is Cholita Wrestling. Cholitas (women of indigenous descent) have become something of a national symbol for Bolivia with their penchant for dapper bowler hats, pigtails and brightly coloured dresses. In El Alto these market ladies take the frustration of a hard day at work out on each other in the wrestling ring. The fights are staged and the good humour of the locals makes them a great place to practise your Spanish and enjoy some hammy acting. Audience participation is sometimes expected so come prepared with your luchador mask.
Anything else?
In the El Alto market be prepared to sift through the collective mass of Bolivian culture splayed out over three miles. Here you’ll be able to haggle over rusty car parts, gawk at lucky dogs’ feet, have your shoes cobbled, grab that Barcelona replica shirt and find that perfect baby alpaca woven jumper all while sipping on bootlegged Coca-Cola.
Anything to avoid?
Taxi scams are unfortunately common in La Paz. Always hail a taxi from an official rank, be sure to check your driver’s identification and agree on a price once you’ve discussed your destination. Some travellers have also reported being hassled by fake police officers.
What should I bring home?
The best trinket run in town is the Witches’ Market or El Mercado de las Brujas. A stroll down this street will bring you face to face with Incan handcrafts, clothing and religious iconography. Music shops sell whole ranges of guitars, flutes and charangos. These tiny local guitars give off the steely sound of a mandolin and are sometimes made with the skins of armadillos, a practice which has become frowned upon in recent years. Also available are llama foetuses. Used as totems to ward off bad luck the preserved llama is traditionally buried as an offering to the goddess Pachamama under a new house.
When should I go?
La Paz is generally a year round-destination. The hottest months are July and August, when temperatures can reach 36°C. Given the high altitude sunscreen and sunglasses are recommended, as is staying wrapped up warm. The air can turn deceptively cold once the sun dips behind the mountains.
What’s the currency?
Bolivian currency is called the boliviano (B$).
Something to remember…
Take it easy. It will take a few days to acclimatise to the extreme conditions, so try not to take the steep pathways and tumbling staircases two steps at a time. Altitude sickness is no joke.