12 STEP PLANET: KOSICE

Where exactly is it?
The ‘City of Tolerance’ is the second largest urban area in Slovakia with a population nearing a quarter of a million. The capital of the Košice region is situated on the country’s eastern fringe, close to the foothills of the Slovak Ore Mountains. Which, as we all know, are part of the Carpathian range. Košice is at the crossroads of Eastern Europe. The Hungarian border is less than 20 kilometres to the south. Both Poland and Ukraine are approximately 120km and 90km to the north and west.
How do I get there?
There are no direct flights from Ireland to Slovakia’s second city, but it’s no trouble getting there. An easy route is to travel with Aer Lingus from Dublin to Prague and connect onward to Košice with Czech Airlines. Another option is to fly into the glorious Hungarian capital Budapest and travel north by train to eastern Slovakia. This journey takes about 3 1/2 hours.
What language do they speak?
The official language is Slovak, widely spoken by the vast majority of the population. However, the city’s close proximity to a number of other Eastern European countries means Polish, Czech, Hungarian, Ukrainian and Romanian are widely used by immigrant communities.
What is the local beer like?
Slovak breweries may not be as celebrated as their Czech neighbours. However, their produce is no less superb and, indeed, ranks among the best in Europe. The bitter, hops flavoured varieties are known as svelte, the sweeter, darker brews referred to as tmave. Zlatý Bažant (Golden Pheasant) is a very popular pilsner-style draught beer, also available as both a lemon and grapefruit flavoured radler (shandy). The Šariš brewery produces a number of award-winning tipples,
including their decorated premium brand. There are numerous micro-breweries in the region. You won’t want for choice!
Other drinks?
There are plenty of alternatives! Slovak wines are excellent and very affordable. The sweet, white wine Riesling is especially good. Wide ranges of spirits are produced throughout Slovakia, both homemade and by commercial distilleries. Amongst the best are the sweet plum brandy known as slivovica and borovička, a type of potent gin. Fruit brandies come in a selection of flavours, including raspberry, pear and apricot. Demänovka is a herb-based spirit, available in cafes and bars. However, be warned. Home-produced
concoctions are usually much more potent than store bought brands!
What is the transport like?
Getting about Košice is a doddle. The compact city is well serviced by a network of buses, trams and trolleybuses. However, with most of the important sights located in the historic old centre, walking is your best bet. Slovakia is situated at the heart of Eastern Europe, making it an ideal starting point for onwards journeys into neighbouring Hungary, Poland, Romania and Ukraine. All are a short trip away by either train or car.
What’s the food like?
Slovak food is hearty and wholesome, with meat very much to the fore. The country’s proximity to many European countries, particularly Hungary and Austria, has had a major influence on the cuisine. Pork is a favourite, as are cheese and local vegetable of choice, cabbage. The big meal of the day is served at lunchtime and usually consists of a soup starter and a meat main. Classic dishes include bryndzove halushk, typically consisting of potato dumplings, bacon and sheep cheese and lokse, a potato pancake, often served with a meat schnitzel. Soups are hugely popular, especially garlic, bean and goulash. The Eastern European sausage tradition is very strong in Slovakia. A favourite is jaternica, a type of pork blood sausage and klobasa, a pork delicacy, spiced with garlic and pepper. Sweet treats are much loved. They range from pancakes to fried dumplings, known
as sisky.
What’s the nightlife like?
Košice bustling nightlife attracts people from all over Slovakia and beyond. The historic University City has a range of pubs, cafes and clubs and an atmosphere that’s generally relaxed and friendly. Amongst the best haunts in town is the Jazz Club, in a cosy, dim-lit cellar, on centrally located Kováčska Street. The music ranges from club DJs and breaking live bands to swing and Dixieland. A few doors away is the Retro Club, a super-stylish late bar with an extensive cocktail menu. Another local favourite is late-night dance venue, the Exit Club. And let’s not forget the Diesel Irish Pub! Live rock and jazz bands entertain the revellers at weekends, guaranteeing a lively ambience. For something a little more upmarket head to Peklo (Hell) a stylish venue that specialises in mellow music, fine food and wine, into the early hours.
Why should I go?
Košice is one of the most beautiful and friendly small cities in Europe. Its historic centre is adorned with wonderful architecture, from gothic to baroque, renaissance to modernist. Thankfully, nobody seems to be in too much of a rush! Soak up the atmosphere, sit back and enjoy a drink on one of the
numerous cafe terraces and explore a city rich in history.
What are the touristy things to do?
The centre of the old city is full of beautifully maintained historic buildings. The huge Gothic Cathedral of St. Elizabeth is one of the main draws. It took over one hundred years to build and is the largest church of any kind in Slovakia. Another attraction is the underground archaeological excavations of ancient Košice. Winding passages take visitors back to medieval times. The Executioner’s Bastion is one of the few remaining intact sections of the old city’s fortification. There are scores of ornate buildings in a variety of styles from the Renaissance onwards. Theatre is serious business in Košice. The Neo-baroque State Theatre is the place to go for ballet and opera, whilst the State Philharmonic holds regular performances of classical masterpieces, in addition to numerous festivals. Sports lovers should get along to an ice hockey game featuring the city’s pride and joy HC Košice
Anything else?
The second oldest marathon in the world (Boston’s the oldest) happens here every October! The Peace Marathon first took place in 1924 and since then has been attracting runners from all around the globe to the Eastern Slovak capital.
Anything to avoid?
Pick-pocketing is a common occurrence in and around the city’s main train station. Keep wallets, phones, jewellery and other valuables out of view.
What should I bring home?
Hrnciarska Lane is an alley in central Košice dedicated to local crafts. You’ll find lots of great gift ideas, including traditional Slovak pottery, leather-goods and porcelain. The main shopping street, Hlavná Ulica, is dotted with designer outlets and mini malls.
When should I go?
July and August can get really hot and it’s also the time of year when Slovaks take their holidays. The best bet is early summer. You’re guaranteed pleasant weather, without the crowds and high-season charges.
What’s my challenge?
Take it nice and easy! Košice main tourist attractions can be visited in just over a day, but the city’s relaxed charm takes a couple of days to fully appreciate. This is a place to enjoy in first gear.
What’s the currency?
The euro. Slovakia joined the European common currency on January 1st 2009.
Something to remember...
Košice has been occupied by numerous rulers throughout its long and turbulent history. As recently as 1938, it was ceded to Hungary as part of the Vienna Arbitration that forced Czechoslovakia to give up large tracts of southern Slovakia. After the war it became part of Czechoslovakia again. In January 1993, Czechoslovakia split amicably to form two new countries, the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Košice is one of the European Capitals of Culture for 2013.