12 Step Planet: Kiev

Where exactly is it?
Kiev is the capital of Ukraine and its largest city with a population in excess of 2.5 million. The ‘Mother of all Cities’ is in the north of the country by the banks of
the Dnieper river, which flows southward into the Black Sea. Kiev is characterised by the numerous wooded hillocks and waterways that lie within its urban perimeter.
How do I get there?
Kiev isn’t accessible by direct flights from Ireland, but is easily reached from a number of major continental airports. Malev Airlines offer excellent value, one-stop flight options from Dublin to Kiev’s Borispol International via Budapest. KLM have competitive rates from Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport. Air France operates a regular service from Charles de Gaulle.
What language do they speak?
The official state language is Ukrainian. However, Russian is more widely spoken by the city’s inhabitants. Russian gained a strong foothold during the days of the Soviet Union and has continued to dominate the city’s commercial life. Ukrainian is primarily used by immigrants from rural regions. Kiev is also home to smaller communities of Polish, Armenian, Georgian and Romanian migrants.
What is the local beer like?
Ukrainians certainly love their beer! Indigenous brands are aplenty, resulting in some difficult choices for the discerning drinker! The top breweries are Obolon, Lvivske and PPB, all of which produce a range of high-quality lagers. Lvivske Premium is an excellent bottled smooth pale lager, slowly gaining in popularity throughout Europe. Lvivske’s main rival in the bottled beer market is the sweeter Obolon Premium, an ideal brew for hot summer evenings. For something a little stronger, why not try Chernigivske Dark, a 6% strength amber coloured beer with a rich caramel flavour.
Other drinks?
Like many Slavic countries, vodka is popular and widely consumed throughout the Ukraine. An alternative local speciality is horilka, a grain-based spirit, commonly flavoured with peppers. Legend has it that horilka was a gift from the devil to the Ukrainian people! Multiple fruit-flavoured variations of horilka also exist, including raspberry, gooseberry and rose hip. Horilka is part of everyday life for Ukrainians; either as an accompaniment with pickled foods or for toasting special occasions. Ukrainian brandy or konjak is surprisingly good and an ideal guard
against the winter elements. Wines from the southern region of Crimea are certainly worth sampling, but avoid the cheaper red varieties, a guarantee of high-voltage hangovers!
What is the transport like?
Kiev boasts an extensive, if somewhat outdated, transport system. Depending on the destination or time constraints, travellers can choose from a series of trolleybus, bus, metro and tram networks. Thankfully, it’s currently undergoing a timely upgrade prior to next summer’s European Football Championships. An unusual feature of public transport in the Ukrainian capital is the ‘funicular’, a hundred-year plus old tram system designed to service the hilly neighbourhoods on Kiev’s right bank. Taxi travel is notoriously over-priced and gridlock is a common feature of the downtown districts. Unfortunately, the city’s once famed riverboat service has surprisingly discontinued, although private tour companies offer trips along the Dneiper. For onward travel within the Ukraine, intercity train travel is a convenient and affordable alternative to car hire.
What’s the food like?
Ukraine’s vast tracts of wheat-land have earned it the title ‘Breadbasket of Europe’. If you like a bit of loaf, you’ve come to the right place! Kievians like their food wholesome and diverse. Modern Ukrainian cuisine borrows elements of Russian, German, Turkish and Polish culinary tradition. A typical meal begins with a vegetable-based soup such as Borshch or Hybivka, served with a selection of native breads. Generous salads are popular. Oseledets is a popular combination, consisting of pickled herring, onion, sunflower oil and pepper. Pechenya is a widely served roast meat option, Varenyky a traditional dumpling dish, stuffed with cheese, potato and served boiled. Shashlyk is a local adaptation of the shish kebab, prepared with marinated lamb and a selection of vegetables. For afters, Pampushky is a flower based dessert, not dissimilar to doughnuts, while zhele is a local delicacy consisting of jellied fruits.
What’s the nightlife like?
Long gone are the austere days of the old Soviet bloc! Kiev after dark is a bustling place, crammed full of raucous hostelries offering all matter of entertainment and reasonably priced drink menus. Whether you’re a high-roller or a fan of local dive bars, there’s plenty to explore on the streets of the Ukrainian capital. From late-bars to dance venues, traditional pubs to trendy clubs, Kiev certainly has a lot to offer. A local favourite is the ‘super-club’ style venue. These huge complexes adopt a catch-all policy, offering pounding techno dance-floors, a games room, bowling, casino and tacky strip-bars, an all-too-common feature of Kiev’s streets. Amongst the most popular of these behemoths are the vast Maximum and Arena complexes. For something a little more serene and relaxed, check out Art Club 44, a famous live music venue frequented by local artists and musicians. The Khreschatyk district is the hub of weekend activity and is closed to traffic on account of the hordes of revellers. Some clubs have a strict door policy and it’s certainly not advisable to engage in lively discussion with the intimidating bouncers!
Why should I go?
Kiev is one of the world’s most beautiful cities. Its stunning riverside setting and hilly tree-lined neighbourhoods are a joy. The Ukrainian capital is characterised by a rich history and a rapidly evolving future. Its attitudes and architecture are a unique combination of traditional Russian values, Soviet stoicism, Ukrainian nationalism and rampant modern-day capitalism. From statues celebrating communist heroes to super-slick new developments, Kiev is a riot for the senses. During the summer months, the stifling heat forces the city’s inhabitants outdoors, while winter brings frozen lakes and atmospheric traditional markets. There are plenty of places in which to kick-back, from beautiful urban parks lined with horse-chestnut trees and botanical gardens to Venetian island, famed for its urban beach, watersports centre and amusement park.
What are the touristy things to do?
History buffs will certainly get their fill in Kiev! A highlight is the Kievo-Pecherska Lavra monastery, an amazingly ornate hermitage typified by numerous gold domes and sumptuous gardens. It’s also renowned for its underground crypts populated by scores of mummified monks! The Andriyivskyy district is a hotbed for historical sights, chief amongst them the baroque masterpiece of St. Andrew’s church, similar in design to St. Petersburg’s Winter Palace. For a taste of the country’s torrid past, visit the gigantic Museum of the Great Patriotic War. This impressive complex features over 300,000 exhibits and the centrepiece, 60 metre plus Mother Motherland statue. It’s all here, from World War II tanks of the Eastern front to Soviet era military paraphernalia. The Golden Gate of Kiev, once an important defence fortress is today a museum detailing the city’s epic story. Art buffs should make a date with the Pinchuk Art Centre, one of the world’s leading contemporary galleries.
Anything else?
If you fancy something a little off-beat then make a bee-line to the Museum of Micro-miniature. Here miniscule exhibitions from the world’s smallest book to well-tailored insects are viewed through a series of microscopes! This very weird, yet wonderful museum is a fun way to finish off a hard day’s sightseeing.
Anything to avoid?
You certainly need your wits about you when travelling on the city’s metro. Pickpockets are common in Kiev and they’re highly adept at their chosen profession! Also, avoid having to engage with any form of official bureaucracy. Kiev retains an inefficient and bloated state service from its days in the Soviet Union. Whatever you do, don’t lose
your passport!
What should I bring home?
Kiev is a haven for artists and you could certainly do far worse than purchasing an original work depicting one of its many landmarks. Fans of military kitsch will have a field-day in one of the many tat markets. Hand-crafted religious iconography is also popular. However, in order to get the best deals, be prepared for some hard bargaining. Ukrainian traders love nothing better than a brass neck!
When should I go?
It really depends on personal choice. Kiev has a humid continental climate typified by hot summers and cold, biting winters. However, to experience the city in all its glory, visit in the summer months. Kiev’s tree-lined avenues and parks will be in full bloom and its streets a hive of restless activity. If the heat
gets too much, head to the city beach for a dip!
What’s my challenge?
Take your time! Kiev is a vast metropolis and there’s no point in trying to visit each and every one of its many attractions. Dip in and out. Sample some of its unique cuisine, wander around its picture-postcard neighbourhoods and take some time-out to enjoy its outdoor delights.
What’s the currency?
The local currency is the Ukrainian Hryvnia (UAH). One Euro is worth about ten Hryvnia.
Something to remember...
Kiev has undergone many changes since the middle ages. Settled by Slavs in the ninth century, Kiev was subsequently conquered by Varangians, Magyars, Mongols, Lithuanians, Tatars, Russians (to name but a few!) and subject to Soviet rule for much of the 20th century. Today, modern Kiev is a slave to capitalism. What could be next?