12 Step Planet : Kerry

Where exactly is it?
And they say the Leaving Cert geography course needs to be changed… Right, let’s take this slow. Kerry is bordered by Limerick to the east and All Ireland football champions Cork to the south-east. The county town is Tralee, where Roses go every year to smile girlishly and be twirled around by Daithí Ú Sé, as well as doing a jig. Another pub quiz fact is that the tip of the Dingle Peninsula is the most westerly point of mainland Ireland.
How do I get there?
Apart from being serviced by an excellent network of roads and rail, allowing you to easily travel by car, bus or train, you can also fly from Dublin in less time than it takes you to – well, to check in to your flight. Ryanair has flights to both Cork and Kerry airports, and it’s possible to take a scenic drive from Cork International Airport to Killarney in the same amount of time it would take to cross Dublin City Centre by taxi (er, really? – Cork ed).
What language do they speak?
Kerry is a great place to practice your cúpla focail. While no one’s going to tie you down and beat you over the head with a copy of An Triail, locals always appreciate a bit of effort. So if you feel like going all Hector Ó hEóchagáin and throwing in the odd bit of Irish down there, go n-éiri an t-ádh leat.
What’s the food like?
Though Kerry has hundreds of fab restaurants, seafood is the true local delicacy. With salmon and trout locally sourced, restaurants like Out of the Blue Seafood in Dingle, Sacre Coeur in Sneem and Sheilin Seafood Restaurant in Waterville are highly recommended. And for late night fish and chips, Kerry’s takeaways are hard to beat.
What’s the nightlife like?
Home to the annual Other Voices festival, which this year boasted a line-up of The National, Jarvis Cocker, Richard Hawley, And So I Watch You From Afar... and many more. Dingle nights have defeated even the most notorious party animals. Start at the famous Dick Mack’s, where trad music is played at all volumes ‘til all hours. If you make it out alive you can always turn your night into a pub crawl as you visit Droichead Beag, Flaherty’s and John Moriarty’s by the waterfront, before arriving at MacCarthy’s in time for last orders. Further inland there’s a host of pubs and clubs to keep you dancing until the wee hours, such as The Grand in Killarney or Molly’s Pub in Tralee.
Why should I go?
You can remain smug in the knowledge that you’ve found a hidden gem of entertainment here in Ireland. And you won’t break the bank – a win-win!
What are the touristy things to do?
For adrenaline-seekers, Kerry has more than enough activities to keep the blood pumping. The coastline is a paradise for kayakers, as well as for windsurfers, kitesurfers, surfers and sailors hellbent on harnessing the swells and winds that the North Atlantic sends pounding in, depending on her mood. The Atlantic also blesses the region with the warming Gulf Stream, guaranteeing a wealth of marine life. This makes the area perfect for whale and dolphin watching, diving, snorkelling and sea angling. And you may be joined in your pursuits by Dingle’s most-loved resident!
Eh, who?
Yes, it’s the world’s oldest dolphin... Fungie! During their recent trip to Dingle, Jarvis Cocker, Ellie Goulding and Marina and the Diamonds all delighted in visiting the playful little scamp. So don’t worry, your street cred will remain intact. Fungie’s now officially rock ‘n roll.
That all sounds a bit too energetic for me. Anything a bit calmer?
If you fancy becoming the next Tiger Woods (hopefully without all the personal drama), there are several beautiful golf courses just waiting to test your skill, including clubs in Kenmare, Castleisland and Killarney. Or you could take a boat tour around the stunning Dingle peninsula and Blasket Islands or try your hand at pottery throwing in the famous Louis Mulcahy workshop. There are also some great historical sites if you want to get your learning on, including the famous Ogham stones in Beaufort village, stone circles from the Bronze Age in Lissivigeen or the famous O’Connell Memorial Church in Caherciveen, built in memory of Daniel O’Connell.
And what about just taking in the scenery?
With some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Ireland, there are a host of beautiful natural attractions in Kerry waiting to be discovered. Visit Ladies’ View, a viewing point approximately 16km from the town of Killarney, which displays panoramic views of the three surrounding lakes and primary mountains. Or head up to Torc Waterfall, a stunning 60ft high waterfall 7km from Killarney town, with lovely views of the lake area on the way up to the waterfall. Finally, Ross Castle, the gateway to the Lakes of Killarney, and now fully furnished, is open to the public. If you are staying in Killarney, the Ross Peninsula is a perfect distance for walkers and joggers – about 5km round the peninsula and back to town. From Ross Castle you can take a boat around the lake or walk the many footpaths to see the flora and fauna unique to the area. Just sit and enjoy the peace, feeding the swans and take in the beauty that has made Killarney so famous.
Anything to avoid?
Planning anything the morning after a night on the town.
What should I bring home?
Kerry is the home to some truly gorgeous craft shops and fairs. Be ready to exceed your luggage’s weight allowance on the journey home. Kenmare has weekly markets and beautiful boutiques with unique designer clothing, art, craft and pottery product and furniture to tempt your wallet. Killarney and Dingle also boast lovely little shops jam-packed with stunning jewellery and traditional woollen wear to keep you cosy. If it’s modern bargains you’re after, Killarney has a fantastic outlet centre with a Nike factory store and Blarney Woollen Mills shop. Merchandise sold at Killarney Outlet Centre is offered at discounts of between 30% and 70%. A great spot to hunt down designer brands at knock-down prices.
When should I go?
Though the beautiful scenery and outdoor markets are best enjoyed during spring and summer, winds and choppy waves will keep all surfers, kayakers and windsurfers happy in the winter too. No excuse not to head down south whenever you’re free.
What’s my challenge?
To avoid tiring yourself out. With all the diving, surfing, kayaking, horse-riding and adventure sports, you might end up exhausted before the weekend is out!
Something to remember?
While tickets for the Other Voices festival are few and far between, the acts who play tend to stay in Dingle town and party it up with the locals. So even if you don’t get to see the gig, you could end up having a pint with some of the biggest names in the music industry in a tiny hotel. Well worth a weekend’s visit, we reckon.

Other Voices premieres on RTÉ2 on Wednesday, February 16 at 23.25. For more information on holidaying in the Kingdom, see www.discoverireland.ie