12 Step Planet: Granada

How do I get there?
Your best bet is to fly to Malaga airport and take a bus to Granada. It’s a journey of about 80 miles. You’ll see some of the terrific Andalusian landscape. The vagaries of air travel mean fares fluctuate. However, flights can be as low as €124. The bus trip is €10 and takes about 90 minutes. As an alternative, Aer Lingus has daily flights to Madrid, for as little as €9.99. However, the train journey is over five hours.
When should I go?
Unless you like serious heat, it’s best to avoid July and August when temperatures can rise to the high 20s. In December through February it can drop to 6-8 degrees. Take your pick somewhere in between and make sure Alhambra palace is open.
What’s the touristy thing to do?
Visit the Alhambra and the nearby Generalife Gardens. The palace was built during the 1500s by the Moorish rulers of Andalusia. It has a magnificent view out over Granada to the Sierra Nevada. It's one of Europe’s most fascinating attractions, especially for its Islamic architecture. Also across from the Alhambra is the Albaicin area, the centre of the old town with narrow streets, old buildings, small shops and terrific sight lines to the walls of the palace.
What should I avoid?
Sharp-suited tricksters claiming to be customs men looking for counterfeit euro notes. The two chancers will pretend to be concerned that a third person might have offered you drugs. Suggest you all go to the nearest police station or walk away.
How much to get tanked?
Bottles of tasty local wine cost a couple of euro, and many familiar lagers sell for Irish prices. Depending on where you drink, Spanish lager is even cheaper and equally quaffable. Hotels can be expensive. Granada has enough outdoor venues where you can enjoy a cheapish drink while enjoying the scenery. But be careful. It’s not part of Granadine culture to be drunk in public and falling around the place is likely to get you in trouble with the real police.
What about eating?
You’ll be spoiled for choice. Cash-strapped travellers should gravitate to the tapas bars where tasty snacks are often supplied free with your drink orders.
Where can I stay?
Granada has a range of hotels in virtually all price ranges and at all levels of modernity. You can also rent three-story houses in the old Albaicin area.
What should I get to bring home?
Some CDs of flamenco and Moorish music, and maybe something by the composer Manuel de Falla who lived in the town. A book of Lorca’s plays won’t let you down either.
Why should I go?
It would be a pity to live a moderately long life and not see the Alhambra even once. Also, literary buffs can check out places associated with the local poet and dramatist Lorca, murdered in the Spanish Civil War by pro-government forces.
Why should I not go?
If you don’t like heat and prefer to spend your days in an Irish pub drinking and eating exactly what you’d have at home.
What’s my challenge?
Walk from the new mosque in the Albaicin area down to the plaza, stop for a coffee and then continue up to the Generalife Gardens. You’ll see a lot of Granada along the way and you’ll work up a welcome thirst.