12 Step Planet: Dublin

How do I get there?
As a result of the worldwide success of such native musical luminaries as Philip Lynott, U2 and Bob Geldof, Dublin is one of the most popular capital cities in the world. It’s also one of the most accessible, with flights from most European countries on a daily basis, and from more far-flung territories most weeks. Plus there are ferry links from the UK and France every day. Dublin is also well-served by train, bus and DART services. There are no excuses for not visiting one of the most vibrant, friendly and musical cities on the planet.

When should I go?
There are ample reasons for visiting Ireland during the summer, when there’s always a full schedule of musical events to keep even the most obsessive music fan sated. Among Philip Lynott’s favourite haunts were The Bailey and Toner’s, both of which are still flourishing. The statue of Philo, outside Bruxelles off Grafton Street, has become a major tourist attraction throughout the year. Dublin’s calendar is replete with exciting events, such as the Philip Lynott Exhibition running at St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre throughout March and into April. In addition to displaying the largest collection of Lizzy/Lynott memorabilia ever gathered in one place, it promises a unique insight into the life of a musician and the work of a major songwriter.

What’s the touristy thing to do?
Apart from sampling Dublin’s bustling pubs and restaurants, you should check out the U2 wall at Windmill Lane and the Wax Museum in Foster Place near Trinity College. St Stephen’s Green, at the top of Grafton Street, is also worth exploring for its connections with Philip Lynott. The classic Roy Esmonde shots on the sleeve of Shades Of A Blue Orphanage were taken there. In fact, the video for ‘Old Town’ was filmed around these very streets. Also visit the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre: it boasts lots of interesting boutiques. And browse through the record and DVD sections in HMV (Grafton St.) and Tower Records (Wicklow St.) to unearth some of Lynott’s musical gems. Take the DART to the northside coastal suburb of Sutton and visit Lynott’s grave. Carry on out to Howth for lunch or dinner and a stroll up Howth Head. Or hop on a bus to Clontarf Castle, whose friendly ranger featured in the Thin Lizzy song. Or go in the opposite direction and check out the James Joyce Tower in Sandycove: with its widescreen views over Dublin Bay. It is the setting for the opening scene in Ulysses.

What should I avoid?
Anything that has echoes of the stage Irishness. Irish people do not use such clichéd phrases as ‘Top of the morning to ye’, ‘begorrah’ or ‘to be sure’. Similarly, sightings of shamrocks, shillelaghs and leprechauns should be treated as warning signs. Be careful out there.

How much to get tanked?
Pints of beer hover around the €5 mark. And the price of wine has also tumbled, despite punitive Government taxes. For something stronger, it’s hard to beat a Jameson whiskey which will usually cost as little as a pint of stout when taken with no mixer. For the better Dublin pub experience, try the International Bar on Wicklow Street, which featured in the Hot Press TV documentary The Write Stuff, and is a perfect example of an old-style Irish pub with a natural, relaxed atmosphere and a distinct lack of modern decor; or Grogan’s fine hostelerie, which has a uniquely bohemian atmosphere. The International is also a great place for comedy gigs and serves a fine pint of Guinness. Not far away, situated right beside the Philip Lynott statue, is Bruxelles on Harry Street. Across the road is McDaid’s, patronised by great Irish writers like Brendan Behan and Patrick Kavanagh in the ’50s. Gig-wise, check out the excellent Workman’s Club, the Academy and Vicar Street for regular concerts.

What about eating?
You’ll be spoiled for choice. Dublin boasts an impressive array of fine restaurants. There’s Indian, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, American and Mexican – but the best are mostly in the Modern International mode. At the top end you can’t beat the outrageously good Thornton’s in the Fitzwilliam Hotel, on Stephen’s Green. Other highly recommended spots include: the bustling and star-packed Town Bar and Grill in Kildare Street; Lock’s Brasserie in Portobello; Eden in Temple Bar; Pichet in Trinity Street; The Winding Stair on Ormond Quay (beside the Halfpenny Bridge); One Pico, off Molesworth Street; Chapter One on Parnell Square; and Seapoint Restaurant in Monkstown. Most Dublin pubs serve food at reasonable prices, especially at lunchtime. A fine example of a place where you can both eat and drink is the award-winning Solas, a bar and restaurant on Wexford Street with a full restaurant every day and a funky urban soundtrack. The bar is open from 11am to 1am (until 3am Thursdays through Saturdays). There’s also good food on the cheap in the new wave of Korean and Vietnamese restaurants on Parnell St. And Captain America’s on Grafton Street has lots of rock’n’roll history and is great value.

Where can I stay?
Dublin hotels in virtually all price ranges and levels of luxury, are doing great deals at the moment. The Gibson is situated beside The O2 venue at the end of the Luas line. Room prices can vary from €90 upwards. Also recommended are the Dylan Hotel, a lovely boutique hotel on Eastmoreland Place off Baggot Street; the Herbert Park Hotel in Ballsbridge; the Four Seasons, also in Ballsbridge; the Morrison Hotel (Ormond Quay); the Merrion Hotel (Upr. Merrion St.), and the U2-owned Clarence Hotel on Wellington Quay. You can find a room at the Avalon Hostel in Aungier Street for around €10.

What should I get to bring home?
CDs, of course. If you want inventive Irish music try something by Dublin-based band Kíla. A really decent Thin Lizzy compilation will satisfy classic rockers, and a good collection by Luke Kelly will give you a taste of a pure Dublin genius at work. Rock fans should pick up a copy of My Boy, the story of Philip Lynott by his mother Philomena. James Joyce’s Ulysses, rated by many as the greatest novel ever, is redolent of the wit, wisdom and verbal wordplay beloved of Dubliners. Fashion fans should head for Tommy Hilfiger in either Trinity Street or Grafton Street or check out Brown Thomas, in Grafton Street.

Why should I go?
There’s a zest for life that, despite the recession, Dublin people still express through their quirky humour. Their natural exuberance comes through too in their love of music, literature and having a good time.

Why should I not go?
Dublin people are as likely to have a casual laugh with visitors as they are to make fun of each other. If you’re too sensitive, go someplace else.

What’s my challenge?
Try sitting in a Dublin pub for a whole hour without talking to anybody and without anybody talking to you. If you succeed, check your pulse.