12 Step Planet: Derry

Where exactly is it?
We’re on the top left-hand corner of Ireland before you get to Iceland. It really is that far north. In fact, you can see Canada from our house on a clear day. No, you can’t really. At least I don’t think it’s Canada – it might be somewhere in Donegal, which some people say is a suburb of Derry (but others say, it’s the other way around). We’re about five miles from the border.
How do I get there?
I would fly into our lovely wee airport if I wanted to get here in style. There’s a spectacular view of Lough Foyle, the hills of Donegal and the north coast of Co. Antrim from the air as you approach. Otherwise, get the bus from Belfast. Whatever you do, don’t get the bus from Dublin. It stops in Monaghan for some historical reason. Not that there’s anything wrong with Monaghan – but it makes the journey seem longer. A lot longer! The roads are a lot better these days whichever way you come. Some people think it’s quicker going through Belfast from Dublin. We used to use the old N2 in the old days but it’s probably better to go up the M1 and turn left at Ardee.
What language do they speak?
We speak a lot of bad language! Nah, it’s the Queen’s English mostly and we speak a bit of Irish as well. There’s almost a small Irish-speaking area and we’ve got some street signs in Irish. I think the Derry accent is softer than it is in some other parts of the North, although we speak very quickly. The joke about people in Derry is we put ‘hi’ at the end of every sentence, as in, “Would you like a pint, hi?”
What’s the local beer like?
We don’t have a local beer unfortunately. You can buy Belfast ales in the local supermarkets. They’re pretty tasty. Derry is mainly a Guinness town and maybe a Harp lager town too. But all of the usual well-known brands are available in most places.
Other drinks?
The younger folks in Derry probably drink all kinds of exotic beers and alco-pops. I’ll stick to the Guinness.
What’s the transport like?
There’s no underground or tram service in Derry. There’s a bus service which is okay. Taxis are cheap and there are plenty of them. In fact, people coming from other places around the world would comment on the fact that they’re so cheap and easily available. We used to have four train services into Derry, now we’ve got just one – which goes to Coleraine and then on to Belfast, which takes about two-and-a-half hours. The train service is always a topic of argument here – people would say it’s the result of under-investment. But there’s really no need for public transport within the walled city, which is basically an island where you can walk everywhere
What is the food like?
It can be very good. We’ve a great selection of small bakeries and there’s great fish and chips. Greencastle is down the road, so the fish is always fresh. There’s a great Irish-Italian ice-cream place called Fiorentine’s – Sonny there will whistle for you all day. We’ve a great Indian-Italian place called Mama Mizaal, who do great pizzas. And there are plenty of good wee cafés. Apparently the Café Del Mondo, in the Craft Village, is even better than it was when I was last in. According to my wife, who was there yesterday, it was like being on the continent, with tourists from all over the world sitting outside sipping beers in the sun. And Mezzos Café is great too – you’ll find it in Austin’s, the oldest department store in Ireland, if not the world.
What is the nightlife like?
It’s not bad at all and we’ve a couple of decent venues. Sandino’s is a great bar and above it is a new venue. We also have the One World Centre on Foyle Street, a lively spot with all sorts of stuff happening. Generally the pubs are the best places to start a night out in Derry. Bennigan’s on John Street is an ordinary traditional working man’s pub which bursts into song every now and then.
Why should I go?
Because of the people and the location. Also, because of our new Peace Bridge which is a lot better and a lot cooler than almost anyone expected. There was a road bridge there before but this new bridge – which is pedestrian and cycle only – has suddenly got people out walking again. It has been inevitably dubbed “the Coil of the Foyle”, and there are benches on it where you can just sit and relax and take in the fantastic views.
What are the touristy things to do?
It’s great to walk around the city walls, which are like those in York or Chester, only better. They’re still relevant historically; it was all to do with the Siege of Derry and all of that. The structure is fantastic, there’s a great depth to it. And there’s now an excellent museum up there, the Apprentice Boys’ Museum in the Memorial Hall – they’ve had all these artefacts since the siege which have only been on view over the last couple of years. The Tower Museum is another great attraction and Free Derry Corner is a big tourist draw as well. And then there are the beautiful beaches in nearby Donegal.
Anything else?
Don’t forget, historically Derry is a great music town. Dana and Phil Coulter came from here, of course, and Rory Gallagher’s father was from Derry. In fact, the whole showband scene started in Derry. The Clipper Carlton, the very first showband were mainly from Strabane but Johnny Quigley, one of the founder members, was from Derry. And not forgetting The Undertones of course! There aren’t any statues of us yet – we’ll probably have to wait until we’re dead. However, there’s a plaque at the bottom of the street where we used to play.
Anything to avoid?
Nothing I can think of, apart from not walking down dark alleys at night or not picking fights with drunk men. Every so often there’s a scare about crime in the city centre but then you go out at night and it’s absolutely fine.
What should I bring home?
Doherty’s mince and a chip on your shoulder.
When should I go?
Hallowe’en, definitely. It’s a big event in Derry. It started about 25 years ago when adults started dressing up and going out on a pub crawl. Then the City Council got involved putting on fireworks displays and it’s become huge. Even now as I write people in Derry are busy planning their costumes for Hallowe’en. Depending on your point of view you might want to be here when the Apprentice Boys are marching or during the Republican marches.
What’s my challenge?
Run up Shipquay Street, which is a very, very steep street. I remember seeing it described somewhere as the steepest main street in the world. It could probably do with a funicular railway.
What’s the currency?
Sterling, but we’ll take anything off you – at a price.
Something to remember?
Because we’re so far north we really do get the long days in the summer. Sometimes in June or July when the weather is good it doesn’t really get dark at night.