12 Step Planet - Brooklyn

How do I get there?
Aer Lingus, British Airways, Delta and American Airlines all fly direct from Dublin/Shannon to JFK, Newark and LaGuardia airports, but 12 Step Planet has found the best bargains flying Dublin to Newark with Continental. From JFK or Newark, the AirTrain (for $7 or $11 respectively) connects you with the subway to Brooklyn. From LaGuardia, you can get the M60 bus for $2 to 125th Street and take a subway from there. Those who travel heavy might want to plumb for a taxi, which should only cost about $30 from from LaGuardia or Newark.
When should I go?
As a hepcat in a pinky ring once crooned; New York is the city that never sleeps, so far from me to tell you when to take your fucking holidays (I’m paraphrasing, of course). New York freezes in the winter and broils in the summer, so delicate types may want to avoid January and August but other than that you had better stick out the flippant temperatures; Brooklyn is nothing if not a city of extremes.
What’s the big deal?
Manhattan has King Kong, Mad Men and Ol’ Blue Eyes. Brooklyn has Saturday Night Fever, Jay-Z and Grizzly Bear. For 30-odd decades, this infinitely trendy city has been a magnet for immigrants, hasidic Jews, fame-hungry twentysomethings – essentially, the most interesting folk the U.S. of A has to offer.
Not since the heyday of Manhattan haunts CBGBs and Studio 54 has there been such a fertile party community in NYC, which probably has something to do with the tens of thousands of young artists who come for the low rent and stay for the massive rehearsal and gallery spaces. Musical hotspots like Williamsburg and Brooklyn Heights are veritable crèches for toddler bands – on a good night, there’s an illegal gig happening on every corner.
In short, if suits, steam geysers and burrito carts don’t do it for you, Brooklyn offers a completely different NYC experience.
So, it’s sort of like Manhattan’s trendier little sister?
Yes, but I wouldn’t put it that way. If Brooklyn were separated from New York (it was until 1898!), a list of largest cities in the USA would read New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Brooklyn. Locals will thank you to remember that.
What are the touristy things to do?
Take a walk along the iconic Brooklyn bridge (learn how at brooklyn.about.com/od/historicbrooklyn/ht/walkbbridge.htm), ride the world-famous Cyclone at the Coney Island Amusement Park, visit the Mummy Chamber at the Brooklyn Museum Of Art (www.brooklynmuseum.org) and go for a bike ride in gorgeous Prospect Park (anyone’ll tell you it’s better than Central).
Anything else?
As a temporary Brooklynite, the subway is your best friend. Brooklyn is well served by some 18 subway lines, most of which provide direct connections to Manhattan, so there’s no reason why you can’t sample the cityside attractions too.
What about eating?
If you’re tempted by this bustling borough, I’ll assume you’re of bohemian stock and will henceforth dispense with talk of fancy eateries or high class gin joints. You want to know how to fill your whimpering belly and keep it full until your gig tomorrow night. See Recommended for some foolproof options.
What should I avoid?
Neighborhoods in Brooklyn range from chilled and friendly to full-on gangsta’s paradise, so do be careful where you lay your hat.
How much to get tanked?
Liquor, as you may already be aware of, is very handsomely priced in the States, and if you’re clever and seek out a good happy hour in your ‘hood, a night out in the big B should cost you considerably less than one in Dublin. Brooklyn Liquors on 3rd Ave and Best Buy on Coney Island offer superb value for those buying in bulk.
What about the music?
Everyone from MGMT to Dirty Projectors, from Grizzly Bear to The National have called Brooklyn their home over the years, so musos really are in the right place. Brooklyn scenesters who made a splash in 2010 include The Drums, Tanlines, Sleigh Bells and Holly Miranda. In 2011, look out for Hank and Cupcakes, Keepaway and Cerebral Ballzy. Expect to see a whopper selection of outsiders playing the local venues, too. At the time of writing, Lauryn Hill has just performed one of her first solo shows in nearly a decade in the Academy-sized Music Hall Of Williamsburg.
What should I bring home?
Some tunes by that band who live in your building. They’re going to be big, you know.
Why should I go?
Can’t you read? Lauryn freaking Hill!
Why should I not go?
If skinny jeans and nerd glasses really grind your gears.
What’s my challenge?
To drag your vagabond shoes back home. Brooklyn’s a great town to visit, but a dash hard one to leave.

Recommended:

Accomodation
Metropol,
133 N. 4th Street:
Smack bang in the heart of Williamsburg, the Metropol boasts boutique decor, an always-buzzing hang-out room and cosy, modern-looking bedrooms. A bunk rarely sets you back more than $40 including a decent breakfast.

The New York Loft Hostel & Hotel,
249 Varet Street:
This cheap and cheerful flophouse is famous for three things – its super cool loft decor (yes, that is exposed brick), a swanky-as-you-like hot tub on the terrace (yes, terrace) and free fondue on Sundays and Thursdays. If you’re clever, you’ll nab a dorm bed for $20 or a private for $40 but if staying in peak season you’re more likely to pay about 50 beans for a spot in a mid-sized dorm.

Holiday Inn Express,
625 Union Street:
It ain’t the Ritz, but Park Slope’s Holiday Inn is as good a bargain as you’re going to get in NYC. No major perks here but free wireless and breakfast in a spanking new building is good enough for any wandering recessionista – wrangle yourself a room on the 9th floor and you might just have one of the best views of the city greeting you in the morning. An average night’s stay will set you back $100.

Eating Out
Song,
295 Fifth Avenue:
Named after the Thai word for ‘two’, this Asian wonder in Brooklyn’s Park Slope is a textbook example of how exceptional food can take an eaterie’s reputation from “bare and cold” to “minimalist chic”. Yup, there’s much expense spared with the decor at Song, but when the Massaman curry is this good, dozens of lively regulars don’t seem to mind. A cravesome $7 dinner that’s approved by New York Magazine? A fully stocked bar and a DJ spinning tunes while you wait? Enough to make any hungry belly sing.

Eat,
124 Meserole Avenue:
Ever find yourself tucking into a bowl of vegan ramen and suddenly think “Man, I’d love to be fingering through some used vinyl right now”? Luckily, Meserole Ave’s Eat was made just for people like you. Specialising in seasonal, locally sourced food, the simply-titled Eat serves non-fussy dishes in a charming, rustic setting. The menu changes daily but rest assured that everything on your plate has a narrative – your seafood was caught in Hampton Bays and your organic vegetables are straight from the Catskills. If you can withstand hearing about how the small pool of salt in your palm was harvested and dried with 100% solar power, you’ll find a a $17 three-course meal that makes for a thoroughly tasty party detox. Them’s good eats.

The Good Fork,
391 Van Brunt Street:
Quaint without being pretentious (an all-too-rare quality in the hippest borough on the planet), this diner-style restaurant is a longtime crowd pleaser with a Korean twist. Located in the rustic Red Hook neighborhood, (so close to lady Liberty you can practically reach out and grab her 4ft nose...) The Good Fork may still be out of the price range of your starving artist types, but with mains averaging at $20 a pop, it’s shockingly good value.

Going Out
Union Pool,
484 Union Avenue:
This former pool supply store is a scenester wonderland with an outdoor area that’s attracted the eyes of more than a few Hollywood location scouts. Other figures around the watering hole will include token trend whores, angry thirtysomethings who don’t know quite how they got there and sick-looking male models hot off the Balenciaga runway. Somehow, it works.

Rubulad,
592 Johnson Avenue (moved from previous location in December 2010):
Staying true to the concept of the Brooklyn warehouse blowout is Rubulad – a monthly monster party in East Williamsburg. The walls are draped in trippy papier-mâché art and other bits of DIY decor and every shindig is steeped in an über-cool theme. Hipster bashers will have a field day, but the absinthe bars, hash cookie stands, free flowing live music and circus freak clientele make it well worth the hate.

Zebulon cafe and bar,
258 Wythe Avenue:
Renowned for its chilled Parisian vibe and its not-so-chilled late night jazz/world/fusion nights, Zebulon may sound like an enemy planet from a terrible ‘50s sci-fi movie, but it’s actually one of the more comfortable haunts in NYC. Nothin’ wrong with reasonably-priced snackables, free gigs every night of the week, and a happy hour (ie. $4 wine and beer) that lasts for 180 minutes.