When I moved to Dublin during the summer of 2021, I decided to dive headfirst into the journey with no grand expectations. I did very little preparation before boarding my one-way flight, certain that any preconceived notions would be a cause for disappointment.

Crossing the street on my first day living in Dublin, I was nearly hit by a double-decker bus because I looked left instead of right. So maybe I should have done some research!

Not five minutes later, I stood at a bus stop outside of UCD waiting for what Google Maps told me was the 155 bus to Ikea. 20 minutes flew by – and so did the 155.

“Maybe he just didn’t see me,” I told myself. “There’s bigger problems in the world. You almost just died.”

Another 20 minutes passed and another bus flew by. I remained persistent. I really wanted to complete my Ikea expedition – in part because I had slept the previous night on a DIY sheet, made up of several knotted t-shirts. Erasing all traces of Stupid American from my accent, I politely asked an approaching woman if she could tell me, “How in the hell you get these buses to stop?”

She held out two fingers and, like magic, the oncoming bus lurched to a halt. I made a mental image of her hand in my brain for future imitation before jumping onboard. That’s when I learned what a Leap Card was.

I went to Ikea the next day.

Riley Glaister-Ryder. Copyright Miguel Ruiz.

INFECTIOUS FAMILIARITY

I’ve been nearly a year in Dublin – and I’m still learning how to get by here every day. For example, I recently learned that “living in Dublin” takes on a special, new meaning when on-campus accommodation prices skyrocket and you relocate from Belfield to the northside.

I can confirm two stereotypical truths: yes, Irish people love their Guinness; and yes, they use the term “craic” in conversation. No, you should not also say “craic” in your American voice, unless you’re prepared for everyone to collapse with laughter.

If I had to impart one precious piece of advice to international students, it would be this: always consult Google Maps. Dubliners are more than willing to help. They’ll give you the surname of the person whose house you’re supposed to turn at; the street you shouldn’t take; and finally the not-so-helpful exhortation to “just keep going.”

Dublin is a city after all, and though not big by global standards, more than 10,000 international students call my campus home. That level of diversity invites a constant influx of cultural conversations, giving the city an endlessly expansive quality.

There are also times when Dublin feels like an intimate small town. Exhibit A: going out with your Irish friends who seem to know every person in town, and watching as they greet strangers like childhood friends.

That kind of infectious familiarity can breed a strange sense of loneliness for Americans like me, whose daily life consists of constant unfamiliarity with the people around us.

VIBRANT CULTURE

Here’s a tip: If you ever find yourself on campus and feel inclined to make a friend out of a stranger, walk right up to them and tell them you know Aoife.

Everyone loves an Aoife, has known an Aoife, or is an Aoife. Works like a charm.

When it comes to nights out, ditch your fantasy of dancing the evening away in a traditional Irish pub. If you want to be friends with real life Irish university students, tune your ears to EDM and stop watching so many romcoms. This isn’t Leap Year.

I was drawn to this country for its greener pastures, cheaper tuition and – coming from SoCal – to experience the seasons. After a year of living here, I’m quite sure Ireland is green somewhere outside of the city centre, and despite rent in Dublin jumping to an extortionate degree within the past year, you can experience all four seasons in one day!

So Dublin’s a terrible place, right? Far from it. In fact, the culture shock of living in Dublin as an international student has transformed me. Nothing could have prepared me for the vibrant culture of Dublin and its many colourful characters. I now remember to smile at strangers on the street; I thank the bus driver when getting off; I remind myself to not be in such a rush to get through life; and I have an instinctual death-grip on my phone at all times.

Newsflash: they aren’t really going to call a friend. Learned that one the hard way.

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