- Culture
- 02 Apr 01
Frank Hutchins, a well known connoisseur of hotel chic, checks himself into Dublin's latest home away from home The Horse and Carriage and finds much to his liking . . .
I have to confess, hotels are my hobby. Not only in faraway places, but here in Dublin too. There's nothing I enjoy more from time to time than to act the tourist in my own home town.
This rarely involves searching out my roots or wandering from one Joycean landmark to another. More often than not it's a night on the town; a show, a meal, a club. No one wants to worry about driving home at that hour and while cabs have their fascination you're still faced with yesterday's washing-up when you walk in the door. Isn't it always preferable to tumble into luxury, whether alone or with a friend; fresh clean sheets, a beautiful spacious room and a breakfast in the morning you don't have to cook.
Unfortunately, those kinds of excursions, fun though they may be are usually rare. Hotels are dear, especially if you appreciate privacy and discreet service. Since we all know what happened to poor Oscar Wilde after one too many nights at the Savoy (a chambermaid took exception to Bosie's bedsheets . . . and testified), I don't have to tell you what a blessing the new Horse and Carriage Guest Hotel at 15 Aungier Street is proving to be.
I'd been to the launch a month ago, when the legendary revue artiste (or, drag act, if you must) Danny LaRue came along to toast owners Liam Ledwidge and Tony Keogan along with an overspill crowd of friends and well-wishers. Liam and Tony count many show-biz figures among their friends. Their own partnership began nearly twenty years ago with a discreet basement club on North Great George's Street that was notoriously popular with the late night theatrical set.
In more recent years the team opened Incognito, the sauna club that for nearly a decade now has been both an oasis and a refuge for gay men in Dublin. In fact, the Horse and Carriage builds on that precedent, occupying an adjacent site at the corner of Aungier Street and Bow Lane. They'd had their eye on it for a long time knowing that patrons of the late night sauna would enjoy its convenience. In fact, considering the insanely cheap rates - which include free access to Incognito - they'd have to be terrible old skinflints not to splurge. I mean the Horse and Carriage isn't just customer-friendly, they're downright cruising for trade, and a better deal won't be found anywhere.
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In fact, their rates were so low, I took the dearest which at £30 (all inclusive) still outstripped the dingiest rat hole on Gardiner Street (and, please, don't ask how I know this).
The first thing I noticed, even before I took in the striped regency paper of warm greens and delicate floral insets on the wall, before I saw the découpaged valet mirror or the tongue-in-cheek use of framed sheet music and photo stills to dress the walls, I noticed the bed. It was bigger than my living room.
For the first few minutes after checking in, I just stood there, not even hanging my suit, just wondering how I'd ever find another five people to fill it up. Not only that, but the room opened on into a fully equipped and equally spacious kitchen. Good heavens, I thought, I could even stock my own mini-bar and cupboard, wine and dine them, ply them with Haagan Dazs that hadn't turned into soup. I knew I'd have to plan better next time. No doubt about it, I was already scheming how I'd organise a whole weekend.
This suite of rooms (complete with piped TV) would be an ideal base for anyone visiting Dublin on a short term basis of a few weeks or months. At one point I even speculated if I'd prefer simply moving in full time. Although I didn't discuss it with Liam, I know they're happy to negotiate weekly and monthly rates and, frankly, the next time friends come to visit for weeks on end (as they inevitably do) I know where to send them instead of the spare room upstairs.
Anyway, after sorting out my gear for later, I hopped into the shower. Now, the bathroom and shower are on the landing, but you're only sharing with two other rooms and the hot water runs eternal. Tastefully tiled with scalloped fittings, this loo was so clean that even Helen Lucy Burke could have had herself a good sniff. And while it's not usually my habit to linger in the hall in a towel, I couldn't help but notice the portrait of Ganymede that hung opposite the house's elegantly designed and well-insulated stair well. (It'd have to be: not even the sultriest Grecian god could keep me standing around in a draft for long.)
After dressing I set off for a fab night out. The location was ideal since my destinations over the next several hours included the George, the Olympia Theatre, the Clarence Hotel Tea Rooms (That's a restaurant, if you don't mind), Fifi's nightclub and the POD. A short walking distance to every single one - and a pass for the late night sauna as well! I don't know about you, but after working up a hot dancefloor sweat there's nothing I like more than a good steaming.
Although I'm far too much of a gentleman to say just how many extra breakfasts I bought in the morning, I'll tell you it was great not having to cautiously send my guests tippy-toeing out into the cold morning air instead. (You knew all along I'd start bragging, didn't you?) My hollow boasts aside, though, it's no exaggeration to say that the fry was delicious and plentiful, with fresh toast, coffee and juice appearing every time I turned in my seat. And I'll confess, I turned a lot. (At the table behind me sat this gorgeous hunk and I couldn't help but wonder whether he'd be staying another night. For all I know I might be checking back in as soon as I finish typing.)
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After bidding farewell, and the staff had been so helpful and friendly that I really meant it. I stood on the street outside, turning for one last look at the Horse and Carriage's distinctive facade, with its heavy mahogany stained shutters and the skilfully wrought iron work of Harry Page and thought to myself, this is one place I'll be coming back to . . . and soon.
INCOGNITO INSERT
THE SOON to be expanded Incognito sauna club is already well-known to Dublin's gay men and hardly needs an introduction from me. Since the new Horse and Carriage Guest Hotel next door offers a free admission, that means a single room with breakfast, a mere £20 to begin with, seems an even more affordable £12.50. Of course, gay saunas might not be everybody's idea of a good time and that's one fact that makes the hotel an even more irresistible offer, especially for anybody who's just come up to Dublin for a day or two. As much fun as the sauna can be (and I'll get back to that in a second), there's nothing like the comfort of a warm bed when it comes to making either new or old friends.
With its sauna, steam room, carousel shower and lockers on the ground floor, it's a perfectly serviceable facility for the gentleman in a hurry. But for those who prefer a more leisurely pace there's a host of private cubicles above that are suitably equipped to ensure a bit of private or mutual relaxation.
I didn't stay long the night of my most recent visit, even though it's open from 1pm in the afternoon to an astonishing 9am in the morning on weekends (4am weekdays). It was nearly four when we checked in from the POD and a few deep breaths in the sauna and a shower were about all we needed before heading next door. On other nights, though, I'll admit to having struck up more than a conversation with someone. I knew I'd have been in the Horse and Carriage in a flash if it'd been there before.
As I said, next time I'm planning in advance. So should you. You can book into a Horse and Carriage Guest Hotel (and Incognito) by calling 478-3537 or faxing 478 4010 and really, like the Clarence Hotel Tea Room (and I reiterate that is a restaurant), you'd better make your reservations in advance.