Whiskey In The Jar
Locke’s Distillery in Kilbeggan is a museum, which recently welcomed its one millionth visitor. But it is also a working distillery and home of the award winning Kilbeggan Whiskey.
Anne Sexton, 07 Oct 2011
They have been making whiskey at Locke’s for a long time now. The distillery was established in 1757 – thus, Locke’s has the rare distinction of being both the oldest licensed distillery in the world and the newest distillery in Ireland.
Okay, we’d better explain that.
The original distillery, located in Kilbeggan, Co.Westmeath, closed in 1954, after nearly 200 years in business. However, a distillery licence is almost as cheap as chips, literally – currently it costs around a fiver – so although the distillery was no longer in operation, a group of Kilbeggan locals, determined to save this important part of the town’s heritage, paid its licence every year.
A distillery licence may be inexpensive but making whiskey is not. For a long time the distillery functioned solely as a museum, but in the late 1980s, Cooley Distillery bought the rights to Kilbeggan Whiskey – and with it the use of the old distillery warehouses. Because the locals who had paid the licence also saved and preserved almost all of the distillery’s original equipment, these were refurbished and put into operation again in 2007, to celebrate Locke’s 250th anniversary.
The refurbished equipment includes the original 19th century waterwheel and a steam engine, as well as a beautifully refurbished copper pot still, which is the oldest working still of its kind in the world.
The old copper pot still is manned by Liam, who graciously allowed me to taste the clear spirit coming through his pride and joy. At 75% alcohol, this is so strong it would take your head off, so I had a rather small sip. Even so the spirit had an unmistakeable taste of malted barley.
The distillery also boasts a working cooperage, where you can see the coopers at work repairing barrels. This is an ancient trade, one no longer widely practised today, not least because it takes a whole ten years before an apprentice is qualified.
John, the head cooper, handed me a piece of wood to smell and I was almost tempted to nick it and take it home. The wood smelt rich, dark and fruity, rather like a Christmas tea-brack. Whiskey is matured in used barrels, mostly bourbon barrels from the United States, but also sherry barrels for special blends, as these impart a different taste to the whiskey.
Anne Sexton
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