Food For Thought
Plans to tackle the prevalence of junk-food and increasing obesity in Irish society should be welcomed. But focusing purely on the calorie count is the wrong way to go about it.
Niall Stokes, 19 Apr 2012
At the heart of great cooking are wonderful ingredients. Fresh fruit and vegetables. Organic meat and wild fish. Seeds, spices and pulses. Chefs in restaurants determined to produce great food know the provenance of everything they serve. And the emphasis is not on regimentation but on creativity. Good chefs want to know that they can stand over the quality of what they are putting on their customers’ plates. This is far more important than whether the calorie count is low, medium or high in a particular dish.
Calories don’t reckon how much salt is in a meal. Calories don’t clock the artificial preservatives. Calories don’t highlight the sugar count. Calories don’t give any indication if something is good for the heart or bad. All of these factors matter at least as much as calories, which can in any event be burned off depending on the amount of exercise the individual does. Indeed, there is a growing sense that the glycaemic index, which ranks carbohydrates according to their effect on blood sugar levels, is a far more important measure than calories.
It is as if someone in the Department of Health imagines that people eating in restaurants is the problem, when that patently is not the case. Certainly a heavier reliance on badly made takeaway and so called ‘convenience’ food is a modern issue. But forcing restaurants to festoon their menus with calorie counts is not going to do anything to change that.
The Brisol-based Children of the 90s project has revealed some fascinating facts, which are as likely to be true in Ireland as the UK. One of the most obvious but important is that young people have far too much salt in their diets – almost certainly as a result of eating junk food and pre-prepared meals. Bottle fed babies who start eating solids early are far more likely to become obese children. Mothers who put on excess weight during the early months of pregnancy are more likely to give birth to overweight babies, who are fatter than the average and more prone to heart disease. And so on.
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Niall Stokes
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1999-03-03 - Interview
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1998-09-16 - Interview
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1998-04-15 - Frontlines
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1997-03-19 - Interview
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1995-06-28 - Interview
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1995-05-31 - Interview
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1995-02-22 - News
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1994-02-23 - Frontlines
The end of the Republic of Ireland’s World Cup qualifying campaign was deeply unimpressive, not so much for the poverty of the results as for the manner in which they were achieved. And just when everyone was breathing a collective sigh of relief at the whisker-fine nature of our qualification, worse was to follow with the news of Niall Quinn’s critical knee injury. So what is the best way forward for Jack Charlton’s embattled troops? Analysis: Niall Stokes
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1993-10-20 - Frontlines
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1988-09-22 - Interview
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1987-12-31 - News
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1986-09-11 - Interview
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1985-04-12 - REVIEW
Niall Stokes sees U2 light up Madison Square Garden in New York.
1985-04-12 - Interview
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1985-02-01 - REVIEW
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1984-12-14 - News
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1984-07-27 - Interview
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1984-06-15 - REVIEW
An occasion, a night to remember, an unrepeatable experience.
1983-04-15 - REVIEW
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1983-03-18 - REVIEW
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1983-01-21 - REVIEW
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1982-12-15 - News
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1982-09-17 - Interview
The time has come when we can no longer pretend that we’re in control. An incipient sense of cosmic disorder, for the past year gnawing away at the fringes of our collective consciousness, has suddenly become devastatingly palpable.
1982-08-06 - REVIEW
This is the point at which we finally jettison any attempt to lumpen Rory Gallagher with the HM crew, new or old.
1982-04-02 - REVIEW
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1982-03-05 - Interview
The story of how Paul Brady was transformed from a superlative folk artist into a superlative rock artist in a blinding flash of light (well, fifteen years actually). Today's reading is by Niall Stokes.
1981-05-23 - Interview
There's a new star in the charts tonight, and throughout the land there is much rejoicing (especially in some of the more fashionable areas of London). One of punks more pathetic jokes, Adam Ant, forsakes his past of seedy night clubs.
1980-12-20 - REVIEW
ABBA have seldom been acknowledged by those who arbitrate or presume to arbitrate on matters of rock taste. Apart from a brief flirtation about five years ago, rock culture – in as much as the phrase actually signifies anything concrete – has continued to stick them with the legacy of their Eurovision success.
1980-11-22 - REVIEW
Somebody is onto something, that's for certain. To begin with the name has a touch of magic. Dexy's Midnight Runners suggests something illicit, even apart from the drug reference. It's both strong and open, pointed and evocative. And in the end it's accurate because it registers the desired connection – Dexy's Midnight Runners are a soul band.
1980-07-19 - REVIEW
Niall Stokes' 1979 My own album of the year was the Radiators ‘Ghostown’
1979-12-15 - News
The last year has been one of ups and downs for Thin Lizzy. Brian Downey elaborates for Niall Stokes
1979-10-04 - Interview
Searchlight On The Future. View From The Rear: Brian Downey. Occasional Angles: Phil Lynott. In the middle: Niall Stokes
1978-07-21 - Interview
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